Opinions on Poly VS OEM and check my suspension refresh list please

[Sockethead]

Looks good. You guys did a lot of work It's good that you did the rear diff bushing because that will fail eventually. That bushing has been bad in the three cars I've done diff swaps on. It's a bad design.

[Kimber]

Thanks guys! It was ALOT of work, way more than I thought, but hopefully it will all be worth it! LOL We'll see this week after I get to the alignment shop, as I haven't even driven the car yet.

So some of my concerns and questions:

After we had pressed in one of the M3 ball joints in the lower position, we weren't watching and the control arm cut the rubber on the outside. We put some sealant on it, but I am worried now. Do you guys think it will be OK?

I have never had coilovers, so maybe this is normal (and it hasn't been to alignment shop yet), but there is like no travel in the suspension. I mean you try to push down on the car and it seems like it doesn't even move. Is this right?

The rear springs were way shorter than the stock ones. I forgot to take a picture side by side, but again maybe they are supposed to be that way, but they just look super short.

The alignment shop I'm going to is the guy my mechanic friend uses all the time and he says he is really good and has newer equipment (he wasn't sure which brand) but I also wanted to make sure I am up to speed on things I should be making sure that I am watching out for. I have that thread you guys posted and will read over that again and take it with me, but what else should I be making sure is done correctly?

I seem to remember reading a while ago about people saying things about loading different things before tightening them, and to be honest we didn't do any of that while installing anything. My mechanic didn't say we needed to do anything, so I let it go. I just wanted to make sure I am doing this all correctly.

Appreciate feedback guys! Thanks!

[Kimber]

excellent!!

how does it feel?

We'll see this week after I get to the alignment shop, as I haven't even driven the car yet.

[Kimber]

Nice work. Glad the tool came in handy. You can do the large rear diff bushing without removing the subframe but not the other two forward ones.

Yes thanks again, Monday it's on it's way back to you.

[sillieidiot]

Thanks guys! It was ALOT of work, way more than I thought, but hopefully it will all be worth it! LOL We'll see this week after I get to the alignment shop, as I haven't even driven the car yet.

It's worth it lol

I have never had coilovers, so maybe this is normal (and it hasn't been to alignment shop yet), but there is like no travel in the suspension. I mean you try to push down on the car and it seems like it doesn't even move. Is this right?

yeah that's normal. But you might want to check to see if it's on full stiff and change it back to full soft for the mean time if it hasn't already been done. It'll loosen up a little more as you drive it.

The rear springs were way shorter than the stock ones. I forgot to take a picture side by side, but again maybe they are supposed to be that way, but they just look super short.

Yeah that's normal too. It just depends on the coilover manufacturer to spec them. We have less height clearance in the rear so a shorter spring helps. The spring rate is probably going to be higher than your stock ones anyways.

The alignment shop I'm going to is the guy my mechanic friend uses all the time and he says he is really good and has newer equipment (he wasn't sure which brand) but I also wanted to make sure I am up to speed on things I should be making sure that I am watching out for. I have that thread you guys posted and will read over that again and take it with me, but what else should I be making sure is done correctly?

There's not much to watch out for really. You can try to make them go for a completely symmetrical setup so that the measurements mirror each other if you want. Because most places, all they do is try to get you within spec (be in the green). It doesn't mean that you will have say like exactly -2 deg camber on each side. You could be at like -1.5 left, -.8 right (just an example, not actual values) and it'll still be within spec.

The other thing, is to make sure they actually weigh down the car. Some places don't even do that.

I seem to remember reading a while ago about people saying things about loading different things before tightening them, and to be honest we didn't do any of that while installing anything. My mechanic didn't say we needed to do anything, so I let it go. I just wanted to make sure I am doing this all correctly.

Appreciate feedback guys! Thanks!

You don't really need to do that. That's mainly for like sway bars. But I don't think you replaced the sway bars?

If the car drive's straight enough (sometimes when you replace to many things, it might not lol), I highly recommend that you drive around for a bit so that everything settles in first before you do an alignment. Usually your car will get lower a bit and it won't be as stiff. Then next figure out the height you want to be on your coilovers. Then after that, go in for an alignment. Otherwise if you get an alignment now, everything will change in like 100 miles and you'll be out of spec.

[Kimber]

It's worth it lol



yeah that's normal. But you might want to check to see if it's on full stiff and change it back to full soft for the mean time if it hasn't already been done. It'll loosen up a little more as you drive it.



Yeah that's normal too. It just depends on the coilover manufacturer to spec them. We have less height clearance in the rear so a shorter spring helps. The spring rate is probably going to be higher than your stock ones anyways.



There's not much to watch out for really. You can try to make them go for a completely symmetrical setup so that the measurements mirror each other if you want. Because most places, all they do is try to get you within spec (be in the green). It doesn't mean that you will have say like exactly -2 deg camber on each side. You could be at like -1.5 left, -.8 right (just an example, not actual values) and it'll still be within spec.

The other thing, is to make sure they actually weigh down the car. Some places don't even do that.



You don't really need to do that. That's mainly for like sway bars. But I don't think you replaced the sway bars?

If the car drive's straight enough (sometimes when you replace to many things, it might not lol), I highly recommend that you drive around for a bit so that everything settles in first before you do an alignment. Usually your car will get lower a bit and it won't be as stiff. Then next figure out the height you want to be on your coilovers. Then after that, go in for an alignment. Otherwise if you get an alignment now, everything will change in like 100 miles and you'll be out of spec.

Thanks buddy! Yeah I have them on full soft, there are 7 adjustment levels, and I emailed YCW to make sure clockwise was to make them harder and they confirmed that is correct.

I also emailed YCW about the rear springs and their reply was that although the spring is going to be shorter than stock, they are designing/making the adjustable mount with longer threads so we have more adjustability. I'm waiting to find out how long it will be until they send me the new pair of mounts.

And thanks on the alignment info, so I want them to try to make both sides as equal as they can, correct? That's is the kind of info I was looking for from you experts! I would not have known to ask for that. LOL

And what do you mean weigh the car?

I'm actually thinking that I am going to go get the car and drive it (hopefully it's not too badly off on alignment) for a couple days and try to put a 100 or so miles on it. Then take it to the alignment shop. I've spent my budget on this project (and then some) already, and I know this alignment is going to probably be $150 with all the time they will have in it, so the last thing I want to do is have to pay to do it again shortly after. Again this is the info I am looking for from you guys, as I would have never thought about that.

And I did swap my stock 23.5mm front sway bar for a stock M3 vert bar which is 27mm. The rear I left alone as I have the 20mm (because I am vert). So was there something we should have done with that since I swapped it out. I did put powerflex bushings on both front and rear bars as well as new links (stock rear and the YCW came with adjustable links for front)

YCW did say that since I upgraded my front bar that "this is technically the same as increasing your spring rates, so you may need to actually stiffen the damping slightly on the dampers." I have no idea what that means, so I emailed them for clarification, but maybe you guys know. LOL

Thanks so much!

[John in VA]

I seem to remember reading a while ago about people saying things about loading different things before tightening them, and to be honest we didn't do any of that while installing anything. My mechanic didn't say we needed to do anything, so I let it go. I just wanted to make sure I am doing this all correctly.

You don't really need to do that. That's mainly for like sway bars. But I don't think you replaced the sway bars?

I thought having the suspension loaded was also suggested for control arms, upper thrust rods, etc.

[Sockethead]

Control arm bushings and trailing arm bushings

[sillieidiot]

Thanks buddy! Yeah I have them on full soft, there are 7 adjustment levels, and I emailed YCW to make sure clockwise was to make them harder and they confirmed that is correct.

I also emailed YCW about the rear springs and their reply was that although the spring is going to be shorter than stock, they are designing/making the adjustable mount with longer threads so we have more adjustability. I'm waiting to find out how long it will be until they send me the new pair of mounts.

Yeah that's what the shorter spring is for. You don't really need a longer mount tbh. You'll probably be at the lower end of the mount lol

And thanks on the alignment info, so I want them to try to make both sides as equal as they can, correct? That's is the kind of info I was looking for from you experts! I would not have known to ask for that. LOL

And what do you mean weigh the car?

If you want, you don't really need to though. As long as it's in the green then you should be good. I like to have mines a little more symmetrical. But I also do have a custom alignment spec so it's easier to make them do it since they have no "in spec" range to go for lol

For weighing down the car, I mean like the sandbags/ballast or whatever they use to get the car at the correct weight when doing the alignment. It's probably in the alignment thread or something. There's different ballasting specs for a vert. It's not that critical though. A majority of places don't even do this.

I'm actually thinking that I am going to go get the car and drive it (hopefully it's not too badly off on alignment) for a couple days and try to put a 100 or so miles on it. Then take it to the alignment shop. I've spent my budget on this project (and then some) already, and I know this alignment is going to probably be $150 with all the time they will have in it, so the last thing I want to do is have to pay to do it again shortly after. Again this is the info I am looking for from you guys, as I would have never thought about that.

Yeah that would be good. Make sure you adjust the height to what you want before you align it. It should sit a little lower after that 100 or so miles.

And I did swap my stock 23.5mm front sway bar for a stock M3 vert bar which is 27mm. The rear I left alone as I have the 20mm (because I am vert). So was there something we should have done with that since I swapped it out. I did put powerflex bushings on both front and rear bars as well as new links (stock rear and the YCW came with adjustable links for front)

Ah I didn't see that. Well generally you want to attach the endlinks when with the car down on ramps or something. But it should be ok if you didn't do it. Just listen for any clunking noises. If you hear that, it could be the sways hitting the control arm.

YCW did say that since I upgraded my front bar that "this is technically the same as increasing your spring rates, so you may need to actually stiffen the damping slightly on the dampers." I have no idea what that means, so I emailed them for clarification, but maybe you guys know. LOL

Yep, that's exactly what it does. But I think they meant to adjust the rebound. Isn't the YCW a 1-way adjustable suspension? Since it's stiffer, it's going to feel bouncier so you're going to want to stiffen it up to stop that. Just don't go too much, and then end up losing traction over bumps. Stiffer != better lol

Thanks so much!

Answers in bold

I thought having the suspension loaded was also suggested for control arms, upper thrust rods, etc.

Control arm bushings and trailing arm bushings

it depends on the car and the bushings used. The control arm bushings don't really need to be pre-loaded on the E46. On the front it only goes in one way and there's not much movement. It's the same with the rear. The RTABs you would need to, especially if you're lowered. But he has the bimmerworld ones that can basically articulate in any direction already so there's no need. If you use poly bushings, generally you don't have to deal with pre-load either.

[Kimber]

I am taking the car for a drive today that should put 100+ miles on it. I picked it up yesterday from garage and it is so stiff I got a headache driving home! I'm really hoping that it's just that we don't have anything adjusted for proper length, etc. yet. (YCW did email me that the rear shocks are also adjustable for length which we didn't realize when we were installing them and just left them where they were when shipped. YCW has been great with all my emails and questions by the way!) I'm not a track guy, so I didn't want the ride to suffer, just wanted the best handling I could get for spirited driving. I'm hoping i didn't make a mistake with buying this stuff.

I have appointment at 8AM Wednesday at the alignment shop and we are going to adjust everything for proper height and then do the alignment.

Sillieidiot, thanks so much for your info!! I have the rear spring adjustment collar (that is mounted on the arm with the spring above it) pretty much at the top of the threads right now and the rear sits too low. I think that is the point of YCW sending me (and future E46 customers) the revised rear spring perch with more threads so the collar can be raised further away from the arm to give additional height of the rear end. Am I correct on that?

As per the sway bars, the rear is stock, so there isn't much adjustment I can do there, but I will try to check when I am in for the alignment that everything is clearing nicely. For the front, YCW sent these super beefy adjustable links with ball joints (or whatever they are called), so when doing the alignment I'll make sure to check them as well and adjust as needed so everything clears. You can see pics in this thread.

And for the weighing down for alignment, so like should I sit in the car while he is doing it? Also I am planning, in the spring, to install a new stereo system with a couple amps in the driver side rear compartment and a 18" subwoofer in a custom fiberglass enclosure where the spare tire would go. So should I make sure we put a little weight in the trunk to compensate for that future equipment? Would that be a good idea?

And for your comments about rebound, you lost me there. There is a knob on each shock with 7 click adjustments for softer to harder, is that what you are saying?

Again thanks for all your help, I am clueless to this suspension stuff, but learning a ton, and hopefully this will help other people reading as well.