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Thread: My New-To-Me ZHP Improvement Thread

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Western Wisconsin

    My New-To-Me ZHP Improvement Thread

    Hello ZHP Mafia members.

    So I went out on a limb and bought myself a 2005 ZHP black on black. I say "out on a limb" because the car had a salvage/repaired title, and because the PO was not very into preventative maintenance. I got the car for a pretty good price (I think), but it is going to get some TLC from me. The PO was a female, and say what you may about women babying their cars...I don't get the impression this one was babied. Thrashed? Probably not, but it wasn't treated like the rare car it is.

    I have a thread in the classifieds that was a WTB thread but kind of morphed into something else. I figured since I now have the car and am no longer in the WTB category that I should start something in the projects area to document my journey and to seek advice when needed.

    For now my list of to-dos consists of:

    • Valve cover gasket replacement
    • Vanos service
    • Replace worn rubber parts that are in a severely deteriorated state
    • Save money to buy front fenders and hood
    • Save money to get front fenders and hood painted
    • Find an engine splash guard and get it installed (mine is missing)
    • Identify other missing or broken parts that I can't live with in their current state
    • Get the C-pillars recovered

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Madison, Alabama
    Don't forget

    Cooling system refresh
    Every fluid changed
    Front control arms
    Family that races together stays together
    2005 330Ci 6MT SGM (x2)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Welcome. Post pictures

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Beaverton, OR
    Welcome and congrats! Sounds a little rough, but there's nothing wrong with a good project. It's also probably in your best interest to do a full routine maint sweep; plugs, air/fuel filters, belts, fluids, etc then move onto slightly more extensive "routine maint" items like the DISA, ICV and as PetesZ said a full cooling system refresh. Or at least coolant, hoses and expansion tank. Best of luck! And we all love to see pics
    Last edited by Cadeez; 03-29-2017 at 10:58 AM.
    2009 BMW 550i M-Sport

    BMW CCA Member . SAT (S2TBA) . RPI V3 Ram Air Scoop . Gloss black kidneys & 550i badge . HID fogs . LED halos . LED license plate kit . Black aluminum ///M pedals . Body color (A68) roof & trunk spoilers . K&N . Charcoal filter delete .

    Build Date: 10/9/08
    VIN# WBANW53589CT55595
    Platinum Gray Metallic A68

    2004 330i ZHP - Dead
    2001 330i Sport - Sold
    2004 330i ZHP - Sold
    1999 E36 M3 - Sold

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Southern California
    Yup, welcome and good luck! Have you introduced yourself in our new members thread?

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"

    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, Ground Control Coilovers, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Portland, OR
    Congrats on the purchase! Look forward to seeing what you do with it!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Nice list. For now if the c-pillars are flapping, just rip the cloth off of them. I promise you won't even notice its missing a few days later.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Regarding the pillars, I highly recommend pulling the old fabric off and rewrapping the pillars with 3M 1080 vinyl (adhesive). It's pretty inexpensive and easy and it looks as good or better than original. Be very careful with the old pillars, because the corners are weak and can be very brittle.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Western Wisconsin
    I fixed one of the pillars on Saturday. The PO had given me a roll of double-sided tape, which I was going to use for the repair. He said he had bought a whole case of it and would never use it all.
    I removed the old trim piece and peeled most of the fabric off. I then added the tape, row by row, covering the entire piece and trimming the edges with a razor blade. Once I had that done I stretched the fabric back over and pressed it down. It actually stuck better than I thought it would. It turned out rather well. In hindsight I should have pulled more of the fabric off. I only removed what was already hanging. The stuff on the other side of the light hole was loose too and is now kind of disconnected from the trim, but not hanging, since both sides are attached still.
    The hardest part of the job was getting the piece back in place. Maybe the tape added just a little thickness that made an already fiddly job more difficult. I managed to put a nice slice in one of my fingers as I was using the wrong tool to persuade things along. I just wrapped it in a paper towel and some electrical tape and finished the job.
    The results are good. It doesn't look absolutely horrible and if I didn't call attention to it I don't think anyone would notice the pillar anymore. I plan on using spray adhesive on the other side to see how that goes. I've read a lot of stories from people who have tried it and had the adhesive bleed through and discolor the trim. My thought on this is that the adhesive should be dry enough when you put the fabric on it that the stuff can't bleed through. You can't rush the job. I'll test my hypothesis soon enough.

    Project one done.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Western Wisconsin
    Project two was to fix the sunroof sun shade. The symptom was the shade would not open more than a few inches with the sunroof closed. It opened fine with the sunroof open, following along as the glass slid back. It would then slide shut with the glass too, stopped a few inches from the front. I read up a little on here and E46 Fanatics and dove in.

    The first thing I noticed was that the rear driver's side sliding piece was off the track. It didn't take much to put this back in without disassembling anything. Unfortunately this didn't fix the problem.

    I fussed and fiddled and was able to get the glass open with the shade still closed. Now I could see all the attachment points for the shade and could therefor remove it. With the shade out of the way I could get to the screws that hold the glass to the sunroof mechanism. With the glass now out I could get a good look at everything. Fortunately nothing was broken or missing. What had happened was the rear sliding piece on the drivers side had gotten out of position. There is another piece, and I can't remember what it is called, that moves along with the glass as you open and close the sunroof. This thing's job is to pull the sun shade open as you open the glass. You then have to close the glass again (move the thing forward) to allow the shade to be closed manually. The proper location for the shade slider is BEHIND this piece. This allows you to push the shade back with the glass closed. It also allows the glass frame to push the shade open as the glass opens. What had happened was the shade slider had gotten IN FRONT of the other piece. Now when you tried to open the shade with the glass closed it would jam against the very thing that was supposed to move it. Once you opened the glass this thing was moved back, so the shade could move back, but as soon as you closed the glass the shade would be forced to move forward with it, since the piece was moving forward with the glass - thus moving the shade forward too.
    So what I did was just to get the glass-slider thing in the right place, and put the shade slider piece behind it. Now I could push the shade back without the glass being open, and when I open the glass it pushes the shade open too.
    Things were bound up a little bit with dust and debris so I cleaned it up and shot a modest amount of silicone spray on everything. It moves much easier now and shouldn't "jump the track" anymore.
    The take-home from this job is that this part of the car is sensitive and shouldn't be forced or slammed around. It is easy to get things out of whack and when things get out of whack they don't work right in the best case scenario, and they break in the worst case scenario. Luckily nothing was broken here and now the sunroof operates as it was designed.

    Win II.

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