Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    I'm going to put my money on the ribbon cable going to the drivers mirror being the culprit. It tore in my last sedan and caused similar issues.

    http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...rs-not-working

    Wet floor is likely vapor barrier on that door, but definitely check the sunroof drains. Most people will try to run a length of weed eater cord down the drain tube.

    I bought my car with a dead key and eventually gave up on the idea of changing the battery. Dead key is dead. Good thing you've already got a new one!

    And isn't it nice how the pillars look great without fabric? My favorite DIY to date is ripping off that old, faded, peeling fabric and saying "well...that looks just fine."

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    I'm going to put my money on the ribbon cable going to the drivers mirror being the culprit. It tore in my last sedan and caused similar issues.
    I had the same issue as well...but in my case the ribbon cable had magically burnt a small hole right in the middle. So weird!
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    Gawd I hate those mirrors... both of mine are torn
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by anandoc View Post
    I had the same issue as well...but in my case the ribbon cable had magically burnt a small hole right in the middle. So weird!
    I attempted this fix on my sedan:

    http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=911005

    it did not go well.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    I tried that fix too and although all of the solder joints were sound, It still did not work
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    I tried that fix too and although all of the solder joints were sound, It still did not work
    Did you end up settling for manual mirrors too?

    (roll down the window and push the glass to where you want it)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    LOL, yep! That was a couple of years ago... haven't had to adjust them since
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Winchester, VA
    Posts
    61
    Many thanks for all the advice!!

    I decided to pull the #57 fuse and rock manual mirrors Didn't want to have the passenger mirror get stuck down again.

    Got Ms. Zelda up on the lift for a few quick things.



    Got this nasty, horrible thing out:





    What a difference it makes to have the CDV gone. Shifting is buttery smooth.. like it should be

    Also replaced the control arm bushings.







    And it can't all be sunshine and unicorns
    There is a lot of rust around the rear passenger area. No rust on the drivers side.





    Next on the to-do list will be to install the diff and replace all bushings and mounts in the rear.
    Might also try to get the trans and motor mounts done too.
    Lorna.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    Do at least the trans mounts! I too am a fan of no CDV though some say they can't tell a difference.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Winchester, VA
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Do at least the trans mounts! I too am a fan of no CDV though some say they can't tell a difference.
    Will do!

    I find a difference without the CDV, it's not all jerky (especially going into 2nd gear) and I can feel the clutch engage better.
    Lorna.

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