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Thread: School me on Coilovers

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Charlotte
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    Quote Originally Posted by BADCLOWN View Post
    Oh my, this looks bad ass.
    2005 BMW 330ci ZHP Estorilblau Individual

    2007 BMW X3 3.0si - Undecided future

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,408
    Use: Track/Weekend

    Coilovers: Ground Control Coilovers w/ Swift 448/560 springs GC Camber plates

    Bushings: OE Z4M FCAB, OE Z4M RTAB, OE M3 Motor Mounts, Turner RTAB Limiters, RE Engineering Tranmission Mounts, OE Diff mounts, BMW Subframe Foam filled.





    Impressions:
    It's too soft for track setup but it also is really the dampening that needs to be fix. If I had the money, I would buy MCS from Wyatt here. He works at MCS and made me jealous of his 3-way MCS dampeners.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Picton, ON
    Posts
    4,530
    derek, are you running off-the-shelf yellows or are they GC 'spec' (i am suspect about this)?

    you should try the BW RTABs and some form of stiffer diff mounts. you'd be amazed at the power transfer.
    peter



    2005 BMW 325iT M Sport 5MT | japanrot mit schwarz leder | 1/7, canadian-spec | MTechII
    future 330iT ZHP.

    2004 BMW 325iT Sport 5MT | black sapphire metallic mit schwarz leder | 1/6, canadian-spec
    the wife's new daily.

    2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited | silver on black leather with BT, 7 seats and massive rubber
    the tank.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    134
    Thanks for all the super helpful responses, guys!

    I'm definitely leaning toward PSS10 or KW V2.

    Am I correct in saying the PSS10 has both rebound and compression adjustment, but they are not independent, where the KW V2 only has rebound adjustment?

    Are there any suppliers who offer a spring replacement to Swift or other brands, or would these need to be purchased separately?

    Josh

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
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    Just be warned on the design of the KWs. The little hex key screws that hold the adjustment rings in place can get gradue in them and bind. I bought a used set (v1?) and could not get them loose-after trying everything we could think of. Perhaps ones with two rings that keep each other in check is a better design.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    134
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Just be warned on the design of the KWs. The little hex key screws that hold the adjustment rings in place can get gradue in them and bind. I bought a used set (v1?) and could not get them loose-after trying everything we could think of. Perhaps ones with two rings that keep each other in check is a better design.
    It is an unbelievably poor design decision and as an engineer it may keep me from buying them, just wondering what other details they glossed over without much thought.

    Thanks for the input.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    830
    Quote Originally Posted by downshift View Post
    Thanks for all the super helpful responses, guys!

    I'm definitely leaning toward PSS10 or KW V2.

    Am I correct in saying the PSS10 has both rebound and compression adjustment, but they are not independent, where the KW V2 only has rebound adjustment?

    Are there any suppliers who offer a spring replacement to Swift or other brands, or would these need to be purchased separately?

    Josh
    Yeah for the most part. I personally think the PSS10 is more comfortable than the KW V2s.

    Why do you need to replace the springs? Normally if you do, you would want to replace whatever springs with Swift or Hyperco.

    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Just be warned on the design of the KWs. The little hex key screws that hold the adjustment rings in place can get gradue in them and bind. I bought a used set (v1?) and could not get them loose-after trying everything we could think of. Perhaps ones with two rings that keep each other in check is a better design.
    I actually prefer the single ring with the hex. You don't need to tighten them excessively and you only need 1 wrench (or none at all) when you're doing the adjustments. But what I don't like about the KWs is that they use plastic collars so the screws tend to strip the threads and make them bind. Though the reason for the plastic collars was so that they are more resistant to the weather which makes sense. I hate the two collar rings solution. Especially if you lose one of your wrenches lol

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    22841
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    Look into Fortune Auto coilovers.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    3,963
    All you have to do on the KW to keep the hex key from seizing is, before installing, take it out, put a little anti-seize compound on it and reassemble. Simple solution

    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    TIRERACK.com - Revolutionizing Tire Buying
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    All you have to do on the KW to keep the hex key from seizing is, before installing, take it out, put a little anti-seize compound on it and reassemble. Simple solution
    I'd definitely recommend this and perhaps backing the set screw out periodically to ensure it doesn't get too comfortable in that tight little hole.

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