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Thread: poly fcab questions

  1. #1

    poly fcab questions

    So, I am trying to track down an issue with my car. I believe it to be control arms or the fcab's, but haven't got under to diagnose it yet.

    My question is, can poly fcab's be removed and used again? I ask this because I would like to try these first because of the cost of the control arms.

    Second question, are these easier to install than traditional rubber fcab's?

    I've also read that it is not necessary to get the car down within the 30 minutes that is recommended for the rubber ones. Can anyone confirm this?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Picton, ON
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    6,000
    first off... what is the issue you're experiencing?


    Quote Originally Posted by Johnmadd View Post
    My question is, can poly fcab's be removed and used again?
    yes, if you don't damage them when removing.


    Quote Originally Posted by Johnmadd View Post
    Second question, are these easier to install than traditional rubber fcab's?
    absolutely.


    Quote Originally Posted by Johnmadd View Post
    I've also read that it is not necessary to get the car down within the 30 minutes that is recommended for the rubber ones. Can anyone confirm this?
    i've never heard of the 30min rule with rubber bushings - but no, it should not matter at all with either.
    peter

    2018 Subaru BRZ RS 6MT

    2015 VW Golf TSI Comfortline 5MT

  3. #3
    Thanks Peter. I'm having the typical shaking while braking and a little bit of noise and seems to be getting worse. The 30 minutes thing is stated in the Bentley manual and in diys on forums. I had to retap a passenger side bolt hole when doing fcab's a little less than 2 years ago and ended up not being able to drop that side until the next day, that is the side that seems to be the culprit. I have the z4m mounts and expected more miles out of them. I did install coilovers since then and have read that could cause additional binding of the fcab's.

    So, how much easier are the poly one to install?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
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    I believe the "30 minute rule" refers to the time frame that the dish soap lube used during installation becomes more glue-like.
    It was easy to see the front/rear front wheel movement on our 2000 328i (with 60K mile) when stabbing the brakes from 5-10 mph.
    2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Lebanon, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
    I believe the "30 minute rule" refers to the time frame that the dish soap lube used during installation becomes more glue-like.
    It was easy to see the front/rear front wheel movement on our 2000 328i (with 60K mile) when stabbing the brakes from 5-10 mph.
    This.

    Sent from my S8+
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
    I believe the "30 minute rule" refers to the time frame that the dish soap lube used during installation becomes more glue-like.
    It was easy to see the front/rear front wheel movement on our 2000 328i (with 60K mile) when stabbing the brakes from 5-10 mph.
    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    This.

    Sent from my S8+
    So, controll arms/ball joints?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnmadd View Post
    So, controll arms/ball joints?
    Only fcab to control arm joint, as this is be the only joint requiring a soapy slippery solution to assemble.

    Kapeesh?

    Sent from my S8+
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    Only fcab to control arm joint, as this is be the only joint requiring a soapy slippery solution to assemble.

    Kapeesh?

    Sent from my S8+
    I don't think so, I already might have made a mistake. Re read the third post.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Lexington, KY
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    4,173
    I had to retap once while doing this, no problem, took more than 30 minutes. The 30 minute rule makes no sense as the culprit in your scenario.

    My shop guy pushes new control arms in old fcabs all the time when the ball joint on the control arm is the culprit.

    This may seem wrong to many on here.
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; all stock
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