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Thread: Help: Wiring up AEs using LCM pin 44/45

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Well if you read his posts. He explains why. He doesn't like it tapped to the ECU because he thinks it's dangerous. He doesn't like that the fan stays on for a long time after and wants it to immediately turn off when the car is off. And he wanted to try a more OE solution I guess if he could.

    I don't see anything wrong with that tbh. I get customers with the weirdest demands for wiring lol

    the relay is getting the main power directly from the 12+ volt battery post. the wire he needs is just a 12 volt switched source which is why its ok. you arent taking anything away from the DME, there is no feedback going back to the DME to be worried about. plenty of people do it this way and there are no freak accidents with DMEs exploding because someone tapped into a ignition source wire for just a trigger wire. Alternator systems generate 13-14 volts when running so there is more than enough power to switch a relay thats already getting power directly from the source.


    Also im pretty sure that even with out the AEs triggering off the yellow wire/red stripe in the DME area.. turning the car off, the DME fan/system stays running after ignition anyways, the AE setup picking up a 12 volt signal just as a trigger doesnt do anything to keep it on as the relay only works on way in that aspect. it gets the signal from the switch wire and sends it to the relay but the relay doesnt send feedback to that switched source keeping power to it.
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed | FX-R BiXenon Retrofit | Natural Brown Leather | OEM Electric Sunshade | OEM PDC Retrofit | RLS Retrofit | TPMS Retrofit | Factory Alarm | AutoDim Mirror Homelink Retrofit | M3 Folding Mirror Conversion | DGR Coilovers | M3 brakes | AKG Bushings & Subframe Reinforcement |

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    893
    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Well you could just tap into any other switched wire on the car like the ignition, the glove box flashlight, or something else. There's a ton of switched power wires to choose from.

    Yeah I don't mind the fan connection too much. If I didn't want to have it stay on, i just put the key back in and switch it to on (without starting) and off again and then it just turns off. But I pretty much just don't because after a spirited drive. I'm always walking away looking at it thinking it my car is awesome looking lol
    The glove box flashlight is a great idea for a 12V switched source! Why didn't I think of that earlier??? I too have done the "put key back in, turn to position 2 and turn it back off" thing to turn off the the AEs but I didn't want to do that every time.

    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Well if you read his posts. He explains why. He doesn't like it tapped to the ECU because he thinks it's dangerous. He doesn't like that the fan stays on for a long time after and wants it to immediately turn off when the car is off. And he wanted to try a more OE solution I guess if he could.

    I don't see anything wrong with that tbh. I get customers with the weirdest demands for wiring lol
    Bingo! Those are the exact reasons why I was pursuing this DIY. I wanted it to be more "proper" and the LCM to control the AEs as the case would be for city lights or newer BMWs with factory AEs.

    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    the relay is getting the main power directly from the 12+ volt battery post. the wire he needs is just a 12 volt switched source which is why its ok. you arent taking anything away from the DME, there is no feedback going back to the DME to be worried about. plenty of people do it this way and there are no freak accidents with DMEs exploding because someone tapped into a ignition source wire for just a trigger wire. Alternator systems generate 13-14 volts when running so there is more than enough power to switch a relay thats already getting power directly from the source.
    Not worried about the DME blowing up lol! As Hieu pointed out above, my reasons for trying to do it this way was for it to be more 'OEM'. Look at the euro city lights DIYs online - they too could have just tapped into the ECU wire using a relay but instead chose to go the OEM way. I had similar intentions.

    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    Also im pretty sure that even with out the AEs triggering off the yellow wire/red stripe in the DME area.. turning the car off, the DME fan/system stays running after ignition anyways, the AE setup picking up a 12 volt signal just as a trigger doesnt do anything to keep it on as the relay only works on way in that aspect. it gets the signal from the switch wire and sends it to the relay but the relay doesnt send feedback to that switched source keeping power to it.
    I realize all of this Again, I didn't like that the AEs stayed on for a few minutes after the car was switched off (from an aesthetic point of view) and hence I was trying to find an alternate and more OE like solution.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,352
    I just saw this thread.


    For PWM_ANSETUERING_SL_VO_*

    wert01 = data 20
    wert02 = data 40 (US)
    wert03 = data 72
    wert04 = data 23

    I'm not sure what those values mean. Only options mentioned are wert01 says !US and wert02 is US.

    For your angel harness, are you using inline 2 SPDT? I'm wondering how you are getting two inputs and a single output.

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