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Thread: Help: Wiring up AEs using LCM pin 44/45

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Well if you read his posts. He explains why. He doesn't like it tapped to the ECU because he thinks it's dangerous. He doesn't like that the fan stays on for a long time after and wants it to immediately turn off when the car is off. And he wanted to try a more OE solution I guess if he could.

    I don't see anything wrong with that tbh. I get customers with the weirdest demands for wiring lol

    the relay is getting the main power directly from the 12+ volt battery post. the wire he needs is just a 12 volt switched source which is why its ok. you arent taking anything away from the DME, there is no feedback going back to the DME to be worried about. plenty of people do it this way and there are no freak accidents with DMEs exploding because someone tapped into a ignition source wire for just a trigger wire. Alternator systems generate 13-14 volts when running so there is more than enough power to switch a relay thats already getting power directly from the source.


    Also im pretty sure that even with out the AEs triggering off the yellow wire/red stripe in the DME area.. turning the car off, the DME fan/system stays running after ignition anyways, the AE setup picking up a 12 volt signal just as a trigger doesnt do anything to keep it on as the relay only works on way in that aspect. it gets the signal from the switch wire and sends it to the relay but the relay doesnt send feedback to that switched source keeping power to it.
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Well you could just tap into any other switched wire on the car like the ignition, the glove box flashlight, or something else. There's a ton of switched power wires to choose from.

    Yeah I don't mind the fan connection too much. If I didn't want to have it stay on, i just put the key back in and switch it to on (without starting) and off again and then it just turns off. But I pretty much just don't because after a spirited drive. I'm always walking away looking at it thinking it my car is awesome looking lol
    The glove box flashlight is a great idea for a 12V switched source! Why didn't I think of that earlier??? I too have done the "put key back in, turn to position 2 and turn it back off" thing to turn off the the AEs but I didn't want to do that every time.

    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Well if you read his posts. He explains why. He doesn't like it tapped to the ECU because he thinks it's dangerous. He doesn't like that the fan stays on for a long time after and wants it to immediately turn off when the car is off. And he wanted to try a more OE solution I guess if he could.

    I don't see anything wrong with that tbh. I get customers with the weirdest demands for wiring lol
    Bingo! Those are the exact reasons why I was pursuing this DIY. I wanted it to be more "proper" and the LCM to control the AEs as the case would be for city lights or newer BMWs with factory AEs.

    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    the relay is getting the main power directly from the 12+ volt battery post. the wire he needs is just a 12 volt switched source which is why its ok. you arent taking anything away from the DME, there is no feedback going back to the DME to be worried about. plenty of people do it this way and there are no freak accidents with DMEs exploding because someone tapped into a ignition source wire for just a trigger wire. Alternator systems generate 13-14 volts when running so there is more than enough power to switch a relay thats already getting power directly from the source.
    Not worried about the DME blowing up lol! As Hieu pointed out above, my reasons for trying to do it this way was for it to be more 'OEM'. Look at the euro city lights DIYs online - they too could have just tapped into the ECU wire using a relay but instead chose to go the OEM way. I had similar intentions.

    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    Also im pretty sure that even with out the AEs triggering off the yellow wire/red stripe in the DME area.. turning the car off, the DME fan/system stays running after ignition anyways, the AE setup picking up a 12 volt signal just as a trigger doesnt do anything to keep it on as the relay only works on way in that aspect. it gets the signal from the switch wire and sends it to the relay but the relay doesnt send feedback to that switched source keeping power to it.
    I realize all of this Again, I didn't like that the AEs stayed on for a few minutes after the car was switched off (from an aesthetic point of view) and hence I was trying to find an alternate and more OE like solution.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  3. #13
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    I just saw this thread.


    For PWM_ANSETUERING_SL_VO_*

    wert01 = data 20
    wert02 = data 40 (US)
    wert03 = data 72
    wert04 = data 23

    I'm not sure what those values mean. Only options mentioned are wert01 says !US and wert02 is US.

    For your angel harness, are you using inline 2 SPDT? I'm wondering how you are getting two inputs and a single output.
    -Derek

    Project Thread <-- SOLD 8/22/17

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    I just saw this thread.


    For PWM_ANSETUERING_SL_VO_*

    wert01 = data 20
    wert02 = data 40 (US)
    wert03 = data 72
    wert04 = data 23

    I'm not sure what those values mean. Only options mentioned are wert01 says !US and wert02 is US.

    For your angel harness, are you using inline 2 SPDT? I'm wondering how you are getting two inputs and a single output.
    Hey man, thanks for chiming in! Yes, I saw those parameters and values in NCS Dummy...but those dont make much sense to me. The objective would be to obtain a 100% duty cycle PWM signal.

    The AE harness uses a SPDT relay (link).

    The passenger footwell source is hooked to the NC (normally closed) pin of the relay. This directly provides power to the AEs and results in the fade-in/fade-out effect when I unlock/lock the car.

    The NO (normally open) pin of the relay is wired to the battery terminal, which gets triggered by the coil. The coil of the relay is powered by the ECU 12V accessory wire...which is what I was trying to hook up to pin 44 of the LCM instead. Does that make sense to you?

    For the time being I am planning on powering the relay using a add-a-circuit fuse tap and connecting it to fuse #23 in the fuse box.

    If you are able to figure out how to output a constant 12V output from pin44 (instead of a PWM signal), I would love to know.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  5. #15
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    Ahh okay so like this:


    Relay pinout:

    30= 12V Battery Source
    85= Ground
    86= 12V from Pin 44/45?
    87= NO / Output to AE
    87a= NC / input of Footwell


    Pin 49 (I think) is a purple/grey wire that goes to the rear parking lamps. You could probably use that as a trigger too.
    -Derek

    Project Thread <-- SOLD 8/22/17

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    Ahh okay so like this:


    Relay pinout:

    30= 12V Battery Source
    85= Ground
    86= 12V from Pin 44/45?
    87= NO / Output to AE
    87a= NC / input of Footwell


    Pin 49 (I think) is a purple/grey wire that goes to the rear parking lamps. You could probably use that as a trigger too.
    You mostly got it right:

    30= Output to AE
    85= Ground
    86= 12V from pin 44/45
    87= NO / 12V Battery source
    87a= NC / input of Footwell

    The whole idea of doing this DIY was not to tap into any wires and instead use the city light pins and try to have a more 'OEM' like wiring.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by anandoc View Post
    You mostly got it right:

    30= Output to AE
    85= Ground
    86= 12V from pin 44/45
    87= NO / 12V Battery source
    87a= NC / input of Footwell

    The whole idea of doing this DIY was not to tap into any wires and instead use the city light pins and try to have a more 'OEM' like wiring.
    Ahh. Either way, the pinout of 30 and 87 seems reversible.


    You can also use a Resistor-Capacitor Low-Pass Filter to convert a PWM signal to a constant 12V. I don't believe there is a way to get a 100% duty-cycle from the LCM.

    Edit:

    Some google search says LCM might have some access to the PWM options per circuit via PA Soft.
    -Derek

    Project Thread <-- SOLD 8/22/17

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