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Thread: Replacing and recoding DSC unit without bleeding brakes on a 2004 Sedan, ATE MK60.doityourself

  1. #1
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    Replacing and recoding DSC unit without bleeding brakes on a 2004 Sedan, ATE MK60.doityourself

    As the title says, it can be done...without removing the hoses and making a mess and having to bleed.

    Total cost: $70 (DSC module on ebay)

    Parts needed:
    Used or new DSC module

    Tools:
    PA Soft scanner and or INPA
    Metric socket (10mm I believe)
    Ratchet and extension
    13mm wrench (use the one in your trunk toolbox)
    T25 and T30 torx bit
    Long magnetic extension for T25 bit
    Flat blade long screwdriver
    Bike multitool with T25 (Very important, needed to remove bolt in a tight angle. Can't do it without this!!!)



    The typical symptoms in my case were the DSC, ABS and BRAKE light on. PA Soft could not detect the DSC unit during the scan to give me DSC specific codes (this was the first clue that the unit was dead), but it did provide these:

    IMG_3694 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    IMG_3695 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    IMG_3696 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    IMG_3697 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Just to make sure, I cleaned all ABS sensors at the wheels. Still same results. I called and emailed techs at modulemaster.com and bra-reman.com asking if they would be able to fix it but they said if there's no communication they can't fix it. My option at this time was to source a used replacement, I didn't feel like buying a new one but I'm sure the process would be the same. I got mine from eBay.

    I understand there are different modules depending on year for e46 cars so check your module before ordering. In my case, I was able to take a picture of the module and match all the numbers. My car used an ATE MK60 type module, the part number for these is 6765454. This is what I got, it actually came of a 2004 ZHP like mine and was labeled as such by the seller.

    IMG_4209 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Other side, numbers matched as well. Notice it came with the DSC pump attached, most are sold like this. They just cut the brake hoses.
    IMG_4210 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr


    Step 1:

    You'll need some room to work. Begin by removing the cabin filter element tray. Twist the holding clips for the cover, lift cover and remove filter. Unclip the battery cable holder that runs across, loosen battery cable and wire loom for coils. It just hangs now. Finally remove the four T30 screws that hold the filter tray. Set this stuff aside.

    Step 2:

    Remove the airbox. Squeeze out the snorkel tab from the left side of the airbox. Remove 10mm screws. Unclip the electrical connector for the MAF and use screwdriver to loosen hose clamp from intake boot. Pull back boot, airbox just lifts up. (There might be a little rubber holder that needs to be unhooked behind the airbox, it's attached to a wiring loom. It's pretty obvious.)

    Step 3:

    Remove the heat shield/plastic cover around brake reservoir and relay box. Take the rubber stripping off from top, just pulls up. Remove brake booster vacuum hose. Some just pull off, some have a hose clamp. Mine was a little stubborn so I used WD40 and pried carefully with a flathead. You'll hear pressure relieved. This hose and another wire loom sit on a rubber holder on top of the plastic cover. Lift them up and put them aside.

    Now turn the two holding clips 90 degrees and turn (one in front, one against the firewall). This releases the plastic heat shield. Lift up and out. Your workspace should look like this now:

    IMG_4212 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Step 4:

    Remove the relay box cover using a T25 bit for the screws. This will give you extra room to squeeze in your tools later. Unclip electrical sensor from brake fluid reservoir. Get your 13mm wrench and get ready to remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster.

    IMG_4215 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    IMG_4214 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Step 5:

    With the nuts removed you wiggle out the master cylinder and access the pressure sensors. Disconnect them and get them out of the way. You can't confuse them since their wiring has different lengths.

    IMG_4216 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    You'll be able to see you DSC unit and how it's attached to the pump and master cylinder. Hey there little buddy. The electrical connector has a locking mechanism that slides up. Do this now and move the connector to the side.


    IMG_4213 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Step 5a:

    At this point I realized I would need a little more working space so I removed the rest of the intake boot. You don't need to remove your DISA valve, if you are careful you can squeeze a long flathead screwdriver in tight spaces and loosen both hose clamps. Set the boot aside.

    IMG_4240 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr


    Step 6:

    Now go and get your replacement unit. You'll need to separate it from the pump so you can understand how you'll remove the old one from your car. Use the T25 bit to remove the two long gold screws that hold the pump and the control unit. These bolts are different length, remember where they go. Pull the DSC unit straight out and not at an angle, there is an long electrical prong that must come out intact. Avoid touching the insides.

    IMG_4211 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr


    Step 7:

    You'll need to do the same to the unit on your car. The challenge is the angle and space. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the DSC bracket, this will allow you to lift the DSC unit from the bottom. (On the picture you can see it behind the right pressure sensor connection wire.) Theres also a bottom bracket leg that sort of just fits into a hole. Lift up and out. Wiggle the entire assembly and situate it a way that allows you to insert the T25 screwdriver with bit extension and remove the top bolt. Don't be afraid to pull on the metal lines a little bit, they're flexible. Here's what that looks like:

    IMG_4217 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Now remove the bottom bolt. This requires more wiggling and it will only be accessible with the bike multi tool.

    IMG_4218 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Step 8:

    With the bolts removed you can slide the DSC brain downward. On its own it will not have enough space to come out! I recommend getting a helping hand to lift the remaining pump and master cylinder assembly as far as you can so you can pull the DSC brain down and out without breaking or bending the long electrical prong. Notice I already loosened the electrical connector in this picture.

    IMG_4219 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    I lifted up and turned. See how much you have to pull back to clear the prongs?

    IMG_4221 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    The unit out.

    IMG_4239 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Compared the units, should work.

    IMG_4243 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Step 9:

    Now you can install your new DSC unit. Same idea. I sort of felt around to see where the prong hole should be. Pull back the master cylinder and pump as much as you can, it's a tight fit but you can do it. With just enough space place the DSC unit should fit. If you're not clearing the prongs pull back harder, you don't want to bend them. Here's my replacement unit in.

    IMG_4241 by fatherlemmisty, on Flickr

    Now tighten the bolts and secure the unit. Same concept as removal. Reconnect the electrical harness and at this point I recommend connecting either scanner to see if the new unit is detected. If it is, proceed. If not, check the connections. Hopefully the unit you got is in good shape haha! The scanners should read it but will give you fault messages saying it's not matching your VIN, and there's no brake fluid, no pressure sensor signals. Thats ok since you haven't reconnected these.

    Step 10:

    Put everything back. In my case INPA is goofy and NCSexpert doesn't work. No problem. What you want to do first is code your VIN into the unit. I used PA Soft and followed this simple video, have your VIN ready:



    At this point your lights will still be on in your dashboard. Gotta calibrate the steering angle sensor. You can also reset fault codes. I used INPA for this and followed the 50sKid video here, beginning at 32:35 :



    That's it! You should be able to disable and enable DSC now and lights should be gone. I have some videos of that part in my instagram @lem_garcia

    Go for a test drive. Good luck!
    Last edited by fatherlemmisty; 09-07-2017 at 11:20 AM.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Great writeup!

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  4. #4
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    Happy to share! Added reference pic of bike multi tool needed.

  5. #5
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    So I just found out my ABS system isn't functioning properly. It's not sending fluid to the drivers side rear. The shop mentioned it's likely the module is bad and not allowing that channel to work IIRC. I'm guessing this would take care of that?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZHP Dave View Post
    So I just found out my ABS system isn't functioning properly. It's not sending fluid to the drivers side rear. The shop mentioned it's likely the module is bad and not allowing that channel to work IIRC. I'm guessing this would take care of that?
    You will not replace the module just based off that diagnosis. You would get software and check for codes. If the module is functioning properly with no codes then though it's not the module and self you would look elsewhere. The DSC system has pressure sensors and a computer so it would know if fluid was not getting to where it needs to go.
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    You will not replace the module just based off that diagnosis. You would get software and check for codes. If the module is functioning properly with no codes then though it's not the module and self you would look elsewhere. The DSC system has pressure sensors and a computer so it would know if fluid was not getting to where it needs to go.
    Thanks. I'll get that taken care of soon. I've done plenty of mechanical work on cars, but the ABS system is something that's just always worked without a second thought.

  8. #8
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    just wanted to give an update. I used this DIY to swap a 2003 ZHP DSC module from a parts car to my wagon and the steps went perfectly for both cars. as mentioned its tight but very doable and the brake lines are very forgiving with pulling and tugging on the module overall.

    thank you for a great DIY
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

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