Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1

    The $2,500.00 weekend

    I've been meaning to get all the suspension stuff I've bought over the last few months installed, so last week I got a couple of estimates. The "best" price was $2,500.00 for installation and alignment. I thought...WTF!...2,500 bucks! At $125 an hour, that's 20 hours of labor. I called BS on that and did the install myself. It wasn't particularly fun, it was hot, greasy and the skeeters were tearing me up until I go a big can of deep woods off. The only special tool I needed turned out to be a ball joint press I got from Harbor Freight for around 90 bucks. All in all, it took me about 12 to 15 hours, but I was taking my time and taking a lot of brakes. I also degreased, cleaned and painted most of the components that were reused like sway bars, brake calipers, etc.

    This is what I installed:

    FRONT:


    1. AST Coilovers
    2. Strut housings (OEM)
    3. Shock tower reinforcement plates (ECS Tuning)
    4. Control Arms (OEM for ZHP)
    5. Control Arm Bushings and housings (Rogue Engineering aluminum press in w/black street bushings)
    6. Tie Rods and rubber dust boots (OEM)
    7. Ground Control chrome moly sway bar (medium) with adjustable stainless steel rod end links


    REAR:

    1. AST shocks
    2. Reinforced shock mounts (Rogue)
    3. AST Springs with adjustable aluminum spring perches and OEM rubber pads
    4. Trailing arm bushings (Rogue street)
    5. Lower control arms and both inner and outer bushings (OEM)
    6. Upper control arm inner and outer bushings (OEM)
    7. Sway bar bushings, brackets and end links (OEM)


    I dropped the ride height by a little over an inch front and rear, but I'll most likely raise it a bit since I've already bumped the front bumper on a few bumps. I still need to have it aligned and corner balanced, but the difference in handling and ride quality is incredible. No more clunks, creaks or squeaks! The AST's are taught, but not stiff and the handling is balanced and very neutral. I haven't pushed it too hard yet, but the cornering is much, much flatter with at least 80 to 90% less lean when cornering than before the refresh. I really, really like these shocks and springs!

    If you've been putting off doing this...DON'T! It's the best thing I've done so far for my little ZHP!
    Last edited by Bludsport; 09-14-2017 at 09:44 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Good work my friend.

    Sent from my S8+
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,922
    Thumbs up

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,922
    Dang, that's a win!
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,162
    Thats awesome. I am curious why you decided to replace the upper and lower inner control arm bushings in the rear. Did the old ones have significant wear on them when you pulled them out?

    The upper and lower outer bushings - did you replace them with the M3 ball-joints?
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  6. #6
    Nice work! Replacing worn out suspension parts should be a top priority...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  7. #7
    How easy were the inner/outer and upper/lower control arm bushings? Did they all come out pretty easily or was a special tool required? Any issues with having to drop the diff to get access to the inner ones?

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by nsk040 View Post
    How easy were the inner/outer and upper/lower control arm bushings? Did they all come out pretty easily or was a special tool required? Any issues with having to drop the diff to get access to the inner ones?

    Thanks
    You're in Charlotte, right? I have a ball joint tool if you need to borrow it for the knuckle end.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by nsk040 View Post
    How easy were the inner/outer and upper/lower control arm bushings? Did they all come out pretty easily or was a special tool required? Any issues with having to drop the diff to get access to the inner ones?

    Thanks
    The easiest to replace were the upper control arms outer bushings. None of the bushings (ball joints) come out easily, they must all be pressed out and then pressed back in. It's not that bad if you have the right tool. I installed new lower control arms that come with the outer bushings already installed, so I didn't have to deal them. I had no real problem lowering the diff, but I won't lie to you, replacing all this stuff with jack stands and a floor jack while lying on your back on a greasy concrete floor is a real bitch. You have very little room to maneuver, the spaces are tight and it can be very frustrating at times. I was sore for couple of days after and my hands were raw. Was it worth it, absolutely but I wouldn't do it again. If you have access to a legitimate lift that allows you to do all this stuff on your feet, use it!

  10. #10
    I'll see what sort of condition all the other bearings are in when I do the RTABs. Not surprised that it's a pretty unpleasant job.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Just got my ZHP this weekend.
    By DrRosenRosen in forum New Members (or older members who have not introduced themselves)
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 08-02-2014, 03:53 PM
  2. My car at the track last weekend.
    By Jesse M in forum Track and AutoX
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 11-12-2012, 06:31 PM
  3. I'm going under her this weekend
    By 3ZHPGUY in forum Projects
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 05-12-2011, 08:25 PM
  4. it's a very sad weekend
    By 3ZHPGUY in forum General -- ZHP Related
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 11-10-2010, 07:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •