Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Martinez, CA
    Posts
    365
    I just replaced the PS reservoir and the 4 hoses. It totally pissed me off when I came to a dead stop since I needed the special tool to remove the hoses. I think they are available at Autozone. But I bought mine at FCP. Pretty quick shipping and inexpensive.

    It made ALL the difference in the world. You do have to finagle the thing on there, but once you do, you just pull the hose back. Once it stops, remove the tool and the hose comes off the rest of the way.

    In my case, the PS fluid was leaking into the alternator and giving me a red battery warning light. So, I also swapped out the alternator while I was in there. Same with the PS pump. Not hard to do at all.
    2004 Imola Red over Black Leather. 6-MT, Navigation, Cold Weather Pkg (the wife loves them seat warmers!), 3.46 Diff, UUC Short-Shift Kit, Tranny Mounts, CDV Delete and iPod mount.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    397
    Ok so we went under and found the leak not much from the reservoir or the hoses, but from the entry to the CV joint area as you see from my friend pointing at it under the rubber cover/(boot?):

    Name:  ZHP - Steering Leak - 01b.jpg
Views: 219
Size:  174.8 KB

    So he was wondering what is the least amount of work we can do to fix this... do we need to replace the whole CV joint and the center arm? Or is that part of the piston ram seal, or....

    Last invoice the shop gave me they said I also need the control arms replaced, SMFH... I dont think that has anything to do with this but just letting you know, because I dont know, and dont want to leave any info out. They already supposed to have replaced the bushings, not sure how they did not see that then, but that may be a whole another story.
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Dathaeus View Post
    Ok so we went under and found the leak not much from the reservoir or the hoses, but from the entry to the CV joint area as you see from my friend pointing at it under the rubber cover/(boot?):

    Name:  ZHP - Steering Leak - 01b.jpg
Views: 219
Size:  174.8 KB

    So he was wondering what is the least amount of work we can do to fix this... do we need to replace the whole CV joint and the center arm? Or is that part of the piston ram seal, or....

    Last invoice the shop gave me they said I also need the control arms replaced, SMFH... I dont think that has anything to do with this but just letting you know, because I dont know, and dont want to leave any info out. They already supposed to have replaced the bushings, not sure how they did not see that then, but that may be a whole another story.
    That's just a tie rod and boot. You could just replace the boot, but a set of tie rods isn't a bad idea. If the steering rack is leaking out the side and into that boot, then you probably need a new rack.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    397
    Quote Originally Posted by Smolck View Post
    That's just a tie rod and boot. You could just replace the boot, but a set of tie rods isn't a bad idea. If the steering rack is leaking out the side and into that boot, then you probably need a new rack.
    So all that is pretty easy to do as well?


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Dathaeus View Post
    So all that is pretty easy to do as well?


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    Yep. I'd replace the tie rod and boot first and keep an eye on it (tie rod has to come off to replace the boot, so replace it because most people destroy them removing the outer tie rod joint). Even if you have to replace the rack its held to the subframe by 2 bolts, there are 2 lines connected to it, and remove the two tie rods and it comes right out. Very easy.

    Check out my youtube channel for all kinds of E46 DIY's
    http://www.youtube.com/user/flipfinish?feature=mhee
    Check out my BMW Blog
    http://smolckbmw.blogspot.com/
    Follow me on twitter @smolck

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    Great info all!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
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    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Lake Wylie, NC
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by Dathaeus View Post
    So all that is pretty easy to do as well?


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    The same guy you linked to 50sKid also has one where he replaces the tie rods.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75Qt_O5x2M0

    I like that guy's videos. He has one where he keeps spilling coolant. It happened so many times, by the end, I was just rolling on the floor.

    I'm going to be replacing tie rods next weekend unless something comes up. I tried to do a quick steering wheel alignment before taking it into to have it aligned, and my outer tie rods were seized. Grasping the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and rocking it had some play and clunking, so mine needed to be done.

    FCP Euro has a little better price than ECS, and amazingly they will warrant the tie rods for life. Hard to believe they do that on wear items, but they do.

    I went with Lemforder, since they are the OE mfg. Same thing, cheaper price.

    Left Lemforder 32106777503
    Right Lemforder 32106777504
    BMW Steering Rack Bellow Kit - Febi 32131096910 (Need a CV boot crimping tool or some other rigged way of crimping the clamp. Some people use zip ties. You need two of these if doing both sides.)

    I didn't have one, so I ordered a tie rod puller and an offset CV boot crimping tool.
    http://a.co/fZ7DmB8
    http://a.co/3suHSRC

    That puller linked to above is probably of low quality, but should do the job. A handy hint I saw one guy mention that I thought was a good idea is to use the puller and get it under a lot of tension, but don't keep cranking down on it until it pops off violently. Instead, he got it under a lot of tension, then gave the tie rod knuckle a couple of light taps with a hammer, and it popped loose very nicely.

    Salty
    __________________________________________________ _____
    2005 BMW 330Ci ZHP Jet Black/Black with aluminum cube
    Bone stock at the moment

  8. #18
    Yes, that's a good way to loosen any tapered bolts that have almost seized in their tapered pockets. A good sized brass drift to whack on will keep you from dinging the surrounding metal. By the way, last month I was checking some cars at the local Pic n Save (You-pull-em) and found a 330 that someone must have spent some suspension/brake bucks on. Some of the parts had been pulled already, but it had pretty fresh Meyle HD control arms, tie rods, and a nice aftermarket sway bar (haven't measured it yet.) Figured somewhere down the road I might need them, or could sell them to someone who did, and bought them all for under $100. The control arms even have nice 50/50 bushings. Danged if an alignment job on my car a week and a half later didn't reveal worn outer ball joints. It took most of a Saturday to do the swap - a bear to remove the inner ball joint nuts, but was well worth it. The car drives super now and I'm curious to see how my new Cooper Zeons do over time - so far they feel terrific.

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