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Thread: ZHP 3 - A Corner Carver

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    581
    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Glad the swap worked out okay Chris!
    Thanks Dave!

    I’m trying to figure out where that vibration is coming from... I think you mentioned it when I came to look at it at your place. Feels like it could be the CSB, or the maybe the driveshaft is slightly out of balance. The CSB felt ok when I checked it before installation though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    Damn, $750! That's a helluva deal, sweet score! I think the safety aspect of it is worth it's weight in gold.
    It totally is!
    -Chris


  2. #102
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Stow, MA
    Posts
    383
    Quote Originally Posted by cornercarver View Post
    Thanks Dave!

    I’m trying to figure out where that vibration is coming from... I think you mentioned it when I came to look at it at your place. Feels like it could be the CSB, or the maybe the driveshaft is slightly out of balance. The CSB felt ok when I checked it before installation though.
    It seemed like NVH from the bushings to me when I drove the car, but it was a brief test drive.
    -Dave

    2004 IR 330i ZHP 6MT- aFe Stage 1, Shark Injector, RE Underdrives, Dforce LTWs- SOLD
    1997 Technoviolet M3/2/5- LS1/T56 swapped


  3. #103
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,163
    How did you support the back of the car on the lift? And how did you jack it up to get the rr wheels off the ground?
    Been holding off on the 4 post lift for this reason
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    581
    Two ways;

    1. I made a stand out of 2x10's which I put under the rear axle carrier while the lift is in the 'up' position, then lower the lift, letting the stand support the rear until the ramp drops away from the wheels enough to get them off. This is only for minor brake / suspension work because I don't trust the stand enough to get under the car.

    2. For more involved work and to get under the car, I jack it from the rear axle carrier while the car is on the lift (in the down position) then put stands under the rear rocker jack points (on the lift ramps) and let it down on the stands.

    This is actually a problem for me, because the driver's side rear jack point is all rusted out. I put a block of wood and a jack stand where the RTA connects to the body. It's not the best place, but it's solid and in lieu of no DS rear jack point, it's the only place at the rear besides the axle carrier where a stand can be placed. I really need to have someone rebuild the DS rear jack point, but it's a complicated / expensive endeavor which I've been putting off.
    -Chris


  5. #105
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,163
    Ok thanks! I was wondering how to do that without spending big $$ on a lift jack.

    Do you know the brand model of your lift? Perhaps length and width too?
    It seems relatively short and narrow to fit in that single bay. Thatís what I need
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Austin, Tx
    Posts
    106
    Looks good!

    Couple things to note though.

    The complete final drive can come out of the car with the subframe bolted in, it is very tight but it is possible. Also there was a design change and BMW switched to these e-torx bolts for the rear final drive mounts.
    23001222891 x2
    07119901766 x2

    What did you do for a driveshaft? You mentioned neither driveshaft was a bolt in, but I didn't see your solution.

    I have never run poly bushings in the differential of a E46 M3, but the M3Forum guys attribute Non-OE bushings as a significant cause for gear whine in the cabin and solid subframe bushings to not have any effect. YMMV, food for thought. I still would run OE bushings in subframe and differential.

    If you change the diff bushings, the BMW bushings only come pressed into a new rear cover. I have had great success using E36 final drive bushings that I press into the E46 cover. They are 90% the length of the E46 bushings, but were spec'd for Euro M3s which made near the same S54 power.
    33171134872 x2
    '09 HP2S, '12GSA, '00 332iT (S54 Swapped), '00 323iT, '03 325iT, '04 ZHP IR/6MT Sedan

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    581
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    Ok thanks! I was wondering how to do that without spending big $$ on a lift jack.

    Do you know the brand model of your lift? Perhaps length and width too?
    It seems relatively short and narrow to fit in that single bay. Thatís what I need
    It's an older Eagle 7000 lb model - don't think they still sell it. If memory serves me, it's a SS7000. Their current lineup only has an 8000lb offering.

    If you're looking at new options I'd suggest looking at the various mfr dimensions and check your garage dimensions. I went to great lengths to detail (and even 3D model my garage) to ensure it would fit. The horizontal dimensions aren't the only concern; You have to consider the post height and garage door tracks/etc..
    Last edited by cornercarver; 07-19-2019 at 01:04 PM. Reason: forgot quoted text
    -Chris


  8. #108
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    581
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeH View Post
    Looks good!

    Couple things to note though.

    The complete final drive can come out of the car with the subframe bolted in, it is very tight but it is possible. Also there was a design change and BMW switched to these e-torx bolts for the rear final drive mounts.
    23001222891 x2
    07119901766 x2
    I don't see how it's possible to get it out; There doesn't appear to be enough room for the two rear differential bolts to come all the way out. I'll admit, I haven't tried - maybe it's possible. If they don't clear the trunk bulkhead, I think a simple solution would be to just drill a couple of holes from within the trunk.

    What did you do for a driveshaft? You mentioned neither driveshaft was a bolt in, but I didn't see your solution.
    The rear assembly was actually a transplant from a ZHP whose PO did the swap, so the correct length driveshaft was included when i bought the whole setup from squashman702. I assume it was either an M3 driveshaft or a modified driveshaft... I should have clarified that. I didn't actually say neither was a bolt-in; I guess I was trying to say that you can't re-use the ZHP driveshaft. Thanks for pointing it out.

    I have never run poly bushings in the differential of a E46 M3, but the M3Forum guys attribute Non-OE bushings as a significant cause for gear whine in the cabin and solid subframe bushings to not have any effect. YMMV, food for thought. I still would run OE bushings in subframe and differential.
    The gear whine is pretty significant but I attributed that to the solid bushings... I guess if poly bushings aren't helping the situation, I'll have to install OE bushings someday. I left the poly bushings in the diff because I wanted to remove as much slop as possible. It'll be a while before I do any more work on the rear, especially swapping bushings in such tight quarters, so I guess I have to live with gear whine for the foreseeable future.
    -Chris


  9. #109
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Austin, Tx
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by cornercarver View Post
    I don't see how it's possible to get it out; There doesn't appear to be enough room for the two rear differential bolts to come all the way out. I'll admit, I haven't tried - maybe it's possible. If they don't clear the trunk bulkhead, I think a simple solution would be to just drill a couple of holes from within the trunk.
    It will come out, don't drill holes in the spare tire well.
    '09 HP2S, '12GSA, '00 332iT (S54 Swapped), '00 323iT, '03 325iT, '04 ZHP IR/6MT Sedan

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    581
    A quick update on driving impressions;

    The 3.62 gearing is a great addition to the car and not that bad on the highway. It tachs 3000rpm at about 70 mph now, compared to 80 before. Itís only about a 400-500 rpm difference. I think the slightly higher rpms are livable on the highway when compared to the extra kick you get in sub-70 mph acceleration. Redline comes much faster in first gear but you adjust pretty quickly.

    I also installed H&R Sport springs (did the rears when I installed the rear end but ran out of time for the fronts, so I did those a couple of weeks later.) The handling is a bit crisper than with the OEM ZHP springs, but not as aggressive as Iíd like. My last Ďfun carí was a track-prepped Mustang, so finding a balance between that carís handling and a streetable daily driver 330i has been a challenge. Itís still quite good though, and Iíve yet to get either the front or rear end to break loose on any corner. Iím thinking the M3 rear bar could be a tad stiffer too. Iíll probably get an adjustable bar for the rear. (Had to ditch my Hotchkis adjustable rear bar because it wasnít compatible with the M3 rear carrier.) That reminds me - I need to sell my Hotchkis bar...
    -Chris


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