Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    Attempted to bleed the brakes this weekend... The LR bleeder screw was frozen so I'll have to replace it at some point. I skipped that caliper and did the other three. The fluid was definitely old and was a reddish-brown color compared to the gold color of the new fluid. Pedal feels a bit better, but didn't improve as much as I had hoped. Might be due to the small amount of old fluid left in the caliper I didn't bleed, but probably more likely due to the lower grip of the ceramic pads. It's not the end of the world, and hopefully as they wear/bed, the grip and feel will improve.

    The front rotors still only show about 2/3 of their area swept by the pads, and the wear pattern is graduated; much heavier toward the center of the rotor - which is also a concern. (The old pads evenly swept 90% of the rotor.) It's the same on both sides, and I'm not sure what's causing this. I may ping the Tire Rack's tech dept...

    Pic of the front rotor:
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    -Chris


  2. #72
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Chris I have an extra bleed screw for the OE calipers. Let me know if you want it, I can get it from the house this weekend.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  3. #73
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    If you bleed that last caliper and the pedal feel doesn't improve, that might be just the way it is with those pads you're running. I have the same impression when I sapped out my pads: pedal feel improved but never the way it was with the OEM pads
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    Chris I have an extra bleed screw for the OE calipers. Let me know if you want it, I can get it from the house this weekend.
    Thanks for the offer! With my luck the old bleeder screw will snap off, and then it's not worth the effort to drill it out. I'd rather spend that time replacing the caliper. I'll probably get new calipers in the rear at some point, but I've been waiting to see if I stumble upon some miracle Craigslist or eBay sale of 135M F&R calipers that just bolt on without any reverse-engineering on my part.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    If you bleed that last caliper and the pedal feel doesn't improve, that might be just the way it is with those pads you're running. I have the same impression when I sapped out my pads: pedal feel improved but never the way it was with the OEM pads
    I've been reading up on the Akebono ceramics; people who have had them for a while say you just have to wait out the 'no brakes' period as they bed, which takes a few hundred miles. Unfortunately 400 miles for me takes several weeks because I have a 3-mile commute and mostly use my wife's car on the weekend.
    -Chris


  5. #75
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,131
    Quote Originally Posted by cornercarver View Post
    Unfortunately 400 miles for me takes several weeks because I have a 3-mile commute and mostly use my wife's car on the weekend.
    Sounds like you need to ride to work with your left foot on the brakes for a week. Mindful of drivers behind you, of course.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Sounds like you need to ride to work with your left foot on the brakes for a week. Mindful of drivers behind you, of course.
    I think that's more likely to overheat the brakes.
    -Chris


  7. #77
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    There's no procedure to expedite the bedding process?
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    I’m no expert on bedding, so I researched it online... This Tire Rack link seems to sum it up pretty well; https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec....jsp?techid=85
    -Chris


  9. #79
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Whoa, that’s unique. Much like you, that would take me a very long time to properly bed. Looks like I’ll just stick with the brands that use the normal bedding process.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Quote Originally Posted by cornercarver View Post
    I’m no expert on bedding, so I researched it online... This Tire Rack link seems to sum it up pretty well; https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec....jsp?techid=85
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    Whoa, that’s unique. Much like you, that would take me a very long time to properly bed. Looks like I’ll just stick with the brands that use the normal bedding process.
    I typically bed this way....

    https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443

    I did not read the article at Tire rack so they could be very similar.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

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