Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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Thread: DIY Nightmares

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Posts
    2,202
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    I had an F250 with a cracked exhaust manifold. Had to take the fender liner out to get to it. Every single bolt broke off. Some of them were flush with the head. I drilled and tried an extractor but I was afraid it was going to break off. The extractor is hardened so if it breaks you might as well throw the head away because there aint no drilling that out....
    Long story short, I had to use my oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the head right next to the broken bolts and use the extractor to turn out the broken stud all the while trying not to melt the head in the process. I think there were 8 on each side.Got them all out then discovered the surface of the head where the exhaust manifold bolted on was so corroded that it wouldn't seal. (Ford exhaust manifolds have a machined surface, no gasket) so I had to go to the parts store and try to find a gasket that worked. Found one, got it back together and sold that bastard as fast as I could. Tore my meniscus in my knee from kneeling under the fender for so long and had to have surgery a few years later to fix it. That was one of many horror stories with that truck like the time I was getting ready to go plowing and discovered that the whole brake line to the rear brakes was rotted out. Had to replace from front to back making all of the kooky bends with one of those hand held brake line benders. I hated that truck.

    Then there was the time I offered to replace the brakes and rotors on my sister's Ford Expedition. Little did I know that the front rotors are notorious for seizing on the hub. My biggest, baddest sledge hammer would not budge it... even with heat. I had to cut it off with my torch but as you know cast iron doesn't cut very well with a torch. Took me two days to get the rotors off...

    I have about 40 years of mechanical experience, full of easy jobs and horror stories... brilliant thinking and stupid mistakes... all part of mechanics... which leads to to one of my favorite quotes, which I've posted before : "Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it"
    Oh God that truck sounded horrible. I can't imagine having to do jobs like that by myself.

    Your brake story reminded me of when I did the brakes on my car. The carrier bolt on the drivers side was frozen and would budge. Used a jack and an extension to get plenty of torque on it until I finally heard a crack.

    The bolt was still on. My Craftsman socket cracked in half.

    "This brake job will be so easy, just go ahead a chug a fucking beer now it's so easy"




    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    2005 Jet Black 6MT ZHP "Family First"
    ~Rob~

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    588
    Great quote!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    This isn’t a DIY nightmare per se, but I think it fits in the category…

    I replaced the rear brakes on one of my cars many years ago, only to find that the emergency brake wasn’t working. I couldn’t figure out what was wrong so I took it to the local Meineke (same day) because I knew the manager. He told his guy to bring it into the bay and look at it, but he apparently didn’t tell the guy why I was there. When the guy came out after inspecting it, he didn’t go to the manager first; he came directly to me. Mother F-er told me I needed a complete brake job!! I was stunned. I walked over and told the manager, who was clearly embarrassed, and he went in to talk to his guy. Car came out about fixed about ten minutes later and I left. After that day I swore I would never trust one of those shops again...even if I knew the manager.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    672
    haha reminds me of when i got my alignment done at Firestone. Afterwards they told me I need full brake job, as well as new rear control arms, because the camber washers were broken. quoted me $1600 lol
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    672
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    Then there was the time I offered to replace the brakes and rotors on my sister's Ford Expedition. Little did I know that the front rotors are notorious for seizing on the hub. My biggest, baddest sledge hammer would not budge it... even with heat. I had to cut it off with my torch but as you know cast iron doesn't cut very well with a torch. Took me two days to get the rotors off...
    I am expecting my rotors to be really stuck when I do the brake overhaul on my car. In fact, anything than can be corroded, I am expecting to be corroded. Any tips you can give me, so I can be prepared and not spend more than a day doing this?
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149

    DIY Nightmares

    If you are going to replace the rotors, a BFH (Big F'n Hammer) to the back of the rotor should do it. Coat the surface of the hub where it meets the rotor with a very thin layer of anti-seize compound, hit the centering hub too. Then reassemble.

    Also, BMW uses a set of brake shoes inside the rear rotors. There is a good chance that there will be a lip on there and you'll have to back off the adjuster to get the rotor all the way off. When re- assembling, adjust the emergency brake shoes as much as you can at the rear adjuster inside the hub rather than the adjuster at the brake handle. If the one at the brake handle. is used for most of the adjustment, the brake won't hold rolling backwards no matter how hard you pull. I found this out the hard way...
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by papa_g View Post
    I am expecting my rotors to be really stuck when I do the brake overhaul on my car. In fact, anything than can be corroded, I am expecting to be corroded. Any tips you can give me, so I can be prepared and not spend more than a day doing this?
    I used a large 3 jaw puller to get seized rotors off before, works like a charm.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Madison, Alabama
    Posts
    335
    on the 2008 550i had to do the Alternator Bracket gasket three times before it was completely done

    https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...W_7-Series.htm

    First time - had two extra bolts (one is hidden by the bracket and if you miss it you never find an open hole).

    second time - one extra bolt (different one)

    Third time - all bolts re-installed in proper places

    well work the $5 gasket.
    Family that races together stays together
    2005 330Ci 6MT SGM (x2)

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    672
    that's so annoying
    "Who designs an engine with a hole in it that does nothing, seal the hole with a $5 gasket that leaks, and requires removing several engine components, along with the engine mount, and 8 to ten hours of labor to replace?"
    one of those jokes you laugh at, but on the inside, you are in the fetal position and breathing into a paper bag.
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Atlanta/Macon, Georgia
    Posts
    574
    Autozone.com
    This post is going to be so frustrating to read, but I have one for you guys:

    Im a young guy and have very minimal experience wrenching.

    Back story: I had just gotten my ZHP back from a Mini cooper mechanic my brother met while taking his mini in for service at the dealer. He owns an E36 with S52 motor and worked for BMW in the past...blah blah, I thought he would be competent enough chase down the CEL and replace my CCV system. Fairly straightforward job, he says I should get the ZHP back by the next day. 2 weeks later, I get the ZHP with a new CCV, a used DISA, a used air distribution piece and no CEL. Thankfully all issues resolved but the fiasco surrounding that is a whole other story.

    The next day, I decide to change my power steering fluid and reservoir with the associated low pressure hoses as my steering had become noticeably heavy and it appeared to be leaking. Decided to throw in the oil cap gasket too, because why not. Again should be fairly straightforward, watched a couple youtube videos and decided to go for it.

    Gasket comes out easy. Reservoir and one of the hoses come out easy. Second hose has a broken quick release system and appears to be the source of the issue as its clearly been leaking horribly for some time. @#$&! My brother and I spend a good 2 hours trying to find a way to release the tabs and get the hose out but its not budging. Make a trip to O'Reilly's and find a Ford heater hose quick connect tool which looks like it should fit perfectly. It doesn't. We waste another hour or 2 trying to make it work. Its now dark, cold and raining and we're getting desperate. We then decide "Forget it" and make a trip to ACE hardware and buy a dremel to cut that SOB off, it was our first time ever using a dremel but we miraculously made it work without incident. We put everything back together and get to reinstalling the airbox. The final stretch. I attempt 3-4 times but the airbox doesn't seem to be sitting right. "Alright", i tell myself, "one more try" as I'm grabbing the front of the airbox with one hand and the MAF connected to the airbox with the other hand (**key detail** EVERY OTHER TIME I've taken out the airbox, I've left the MAF on the intake boot. WHYYYYY did I leave it on the airbox this time??), when I hear SNAP and feel a piece of plastic fall through my fingers. @#^&@!!! I'd broken a random plastic piece from within my MAF and I have no clue what it does. At this point I'm stressing, I had a spare MAF in the basement but I'm not sure it works or where its from as the PO gave it to me. I put everything back together, wishing for a miracle, and realize I left out the replacement oil cap gasket, "whatever" I think, i'll handle it in the morning. Start the car and CEL comes on after a few seconds. @#$&#@&*#$@&!!!!! At this point its like 9pm. I run down to the basement and grab the other MAF and slap it on the car. CEL still on. I go for a short spirited drive and the CEL is still on. At this point, I'm done with the car and can't bother to mess with it anymore. Went inside, took a shower, looked up replacement MAF prices and went to sleep pissed.

    The next morning, I go back out and replace the Oil cap gasket and like magic the CEL comes off. I then vowed to never work on the ZHP as long as I live.

    2004 Titansilber Metallic BMW 330i ZHP

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