Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Vermont
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    588
    Isolating a single variable is often very difficult. There are obviously many interdependent variables in play and, to make matters more complicated, multiple, marginally functional causes can stack minor defects together to create big issues. This is especially true with older, worn machines (which is part of what makes preventive maintenance so important). We'll never know the cause(s) of your particular problem until you get it fixed. Even then, you may only have addressed a sufficient number of the contributing factors involved.
    Last edited by Reasoned1; 06-29-2018 at 12:11 PM.
    2004 BMW 330i ZHP (52k miles), Jet Black with black leather, MFactory LSD (3.38) with Z4 cover, 18"x8.5" ET38 APEX Arc-8's (Anthracite) with 245/40 Michelin PSS', Koni Sports with factory springs and front and rear reinforcement plates, Shark Injector, Corsa TSE3 cat-back exhaust, TMS under-driven pulleys (water & steering), CDV delete, TMS CF strut brace, K&N CAI, GAS DISA rebuild, TMS pedals, Wheelskins steering wheel cover, roller tray center console, black-out grilles, and WeatherTech mats

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by Sreten View Post
    Two manual ZHP's that I had and few others that I test drove, all around 100k miles had chatter at idle with original flywheels, but not as loud as your current one. I can see how annoying this is for you, it would drive me mad.
    Luckily between the AC at full blast, and the windows up I can’t hear much outside. But come fall when I return to driving with the windows down all the time I’m going to be irked to no end.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    237
    I'll be honest I changed mine because my throwout bearing was driving me crazy and whenever I engaged reverse it felt like my clutch would explode. I had a shop install it because my starter died and I didn't have time midweek to do anything. I am irked by the noise but its nowhere near as bad as your video ^^. I can't hear it with the windows up at all. Sometimes it's completely silent as well. I really can't see why there are so many different cases with chatter. Only thing I can think of is alignment (I included the tool, not sure if they used it) and torquing sequence of the flywheel. I can't imagine quality control of the actual items to vary so much.
    <a href=http://s301.photobucket.com/user/danserban/media/zhp/D636C913-72BE-49A9-9194-30FC3029BD35.jpg.html target=_blank><img src=http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/danserban/zhp/D636C913-72BE-49A9-9194-30FC3029BD35.jpg border=0 alt= /></a>

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    588
    Alignment tool wasn't provided or needed for mine (835101). I even called Valeo to confirm.
    Last edited by Reasoned1; 06-29-2018 at 01:25 AM.
    2004 BMW 330i ZHP (52k miles), Jet Black with black leather, MFactory LSD (3.38) with Z4 cover, 18"x8.5" ET38 APEX Arc-8's (Anthracite) with 245/40 Michelin PSS', Koni Sports with factory springs and front and rear reinforcement plates, Shark Injector, Corsa TSE3 cat-back exhaust, TMS under-driven pulleys (water & steering), CDV delete, TMS CF strut brace, K&N CAI, GAS DISA rebuild, TMS pedals, Wheelskins steering wheel cover, roller tray center console, black-out grilles, and WeatherTech mats

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    I used an alignment tool but it definitely played no role. Everything would have slipped together with ease whether I used it or not.

    I followed all torquing instructions from the kit’s paperwork (8 bolt star pattern, increasing torque in steps, using a quality torque wrench). This was supplemented with the BavAuto videos, which were all consistent in the information provided.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    643
    FWIW - as a data point - my OEM clutch (or maybe it's the gearbox) chatters a little when starting off in 1st. The car has 127,000 miles, and to the best of my knowledge it's the original clutch, so I'm not at all surprised there is some chatter. I'd like to do the SMF flywheel at some point so I'll be following this thread.
    -Chris


  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    My theory is that the dual mass flywheel's rubber dampens the harmonics of the spinning parts of the engine in the same way the harmonic balancer does on the other end. In addition, it provides the "give" needed when starting out from a stop or shifting hard.
    A sprung hub clutch with a single mass flywheel will provide the give needed but will not dampen any harmonics because the springs are metal and in the end, it's still metal to metal contact and any harmonics are transferred to the transmission.
    Why some do and some don't?
    Could be the front harmonic balancer has failed or other anomaly in the engine causing excessive harmonics.

    I'll definitely be sticking with the dual mass flywheel after reading this thread...
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    237
    Small update. Installed m3 Motor and transmission mounts. Made everything a bit worse I now hear the chatter when pulling off from a stop just like some others have mentioned. C'est la vie
    <a href=http://s301.photobucket.com/user/danserban/media/zhp/D636C913-72BE-49A9-9194-30FC3029BD35.jpg.html target=_blank><img src=http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/danserban/zhp/D636C913-72BE-49A9-9194-30FC3029BD35.jpg border=0 alt= /></a>

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,921
    I began with the tear-down and install of this kit. Will report back with my results.

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    I would always use an alignment tool. I've tried to install transmissions without it and it was bitch. Also, there is a good chance of damaging the pilot bearing if it's not lined up correctly
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

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