Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,832
    I got in it today and it fired right up to run an errand and then fired up again coming home. I’m just going to hold off on it until my Indy is done with his “no side work summer vacay” is over in August and have him diagnose it as well as install some other parts/to do items.

    Such a weird intermittent issue.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Atlanta GA
    Posts
    1,279
    im guessing its your clutch switch. if yo had PASoft you could set your EWS to manual instead of the Automatic setting (all US cars are set to automatic in EWS which requires the clutch to be depressed to start) setting to manual means you dont need to push the clutch in so you are bypassing the switch in the clutch slave cylinder.

    the switch is just a magnetic switch and they can go bad.

    another test is if it wont start... then push start the car... roll the car with clutch in in 1st or 2nd gear and let the clutch out and see if it starts.

    if it does then its either your clutch switch, starter or a bad ground... check the ground wire on the passenger side that goes from the engine mount arm to the fram rail. mine was loose causing the same issue.
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,131
    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    im guessing its your clutch switch. if yo had PASoft you could set your EWS to manual instead of the Automatic setting (all US cars are set to automatic in EWS which requires the clutch to be depressed to start) setting to manual means you dont need to push the clutch in so you are bypassing the switch in the clutch slave cylinder.

    the switch is just a magnetic switch and they can go bad.

    another test is if it wont start... then push start the car... roll the car with clutch in in 1st or 2nd gear and let the clutch out and see if it starts.

    if it does then its either your clutch switch, starter or a bad ground... check the ground wire on the passenger side that goes from the engine mount arm to the fram rail. mine was loose causing the same issue.
    +1 this also makes it possible to install a clutch stop

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    Personally, I'll never bypass the clutch switch... I go between the automatic and clutch cars too many times... Too much potential to start the car without pushing in the clutch but definitely good for TS
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,832
    I’m nearly positive it’s the CPS based off reading this and what I’m seeing.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



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