Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Irvine, California
    Posts
    701

    Exclamation Near 200K Miles - First Time Limp Mode Appears

    2005, auto/steptronic. Been getting average 25+MPG cruising on the highways for the better part of the year, both pre and post-limp mode.
    Just 7,xxx miles away from 200,000 miles even....I'm determined to make it there - but limp mode keeps coming back.

    First time it happened last week, car was cruising at around 80MPH, ~3K RPM. Red battery light flashed a couple times, then dash beeped once, all needles dipped to 0 for a brief second, then returned to what it was just seconds before, albeit much tougher to maintain speed. Rough deceleration/acceleration as gears go down/up.
    The lights that came on were: yellow DSC, yellow Brake, yellow gear/cog indicator next to current gear, and SES.

    Did a quick guess-and-check: found out that the transmission fluid was low, and very dirty - flushed & changed it, new filter kit.

    Shifted much better afterwards, but the same limp mode lights came back on not long after (within a couple days) - did a voltage test and deemed it to be a failing alternator. Replaced it with a brand new Bosch (AL0816N). Previous one was a remanufactured one which was about two years old; about the same time they usually fail, based on what I've researched online - hence, the brand-new Bosch one this time around vs. another reman'd.

    Drove perfectly fine for the last week - but today, while cruising around 80MPH again with RPM's in the 2.75-3.00K's, I turned on the radio. Not long after, same original symptoms appeared (flashing red battery light followed by the yellow lights, loss of power, etc.). Turned the car off, came back after an hour or so, drove 100% fine. Didn't turn on the radio this time, drove home just fine (over 60 miles cruising between 65-85MPH).

    Did a search here and E46f. - it seems that the battery may be on it's way out; any other thoughts as to what could cause the above? I put in a 49-DL (Duralast; discontinued) myself about 4-5 years ago, which seemed like the approx. range for when it would lose enough juice to cause problems.

    Any ideas? I'd throw in a new battery but not without knowing the other possibilities/non-battery issues first.

    On a side note, entire cooling system has been replaced once already a year or so ago - but the coolant light came on just last week, and stays on. No leaks; temp. needle is always dead center, didn't even need to top off. Have Mishimoto upper & lower hoses, and the other 5 OE hoses/pipes on the way for replacement, along with a new OE expansion tank & thermostat as a precaution.

    Thoughts would be appreciated...

  2. #2
    I would have the battery checked. Not sure how thorough the tests are but stores like auto zone can test a battery and let you know if it’s failing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    I would have the battery checked. Not sure how thorough the tests are but stores like auto zone can test a battery and let you know if it’s failing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sounds more like alternator to me but AutoZone can check that too

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Sounds more like alternator to me but AutoZone can check that too
    OP said a new Bosch alternator was installed so I assumed it would work fine. Doesn’t hurt to check though, especially if the battery is tested to be good.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    OP said a new Bosch alternator was installed so I assumed it would work fine. Doesn’t hurt to check though, especially if the battery is tested to be good.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Look at Mr read the whole post over here

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Look at Mr read the whole post over here



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    My vote is battery. It needs to be load tested. Putting a volt meter across it is just testing the surface charge.
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Irvine, California
    Posts
    701
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    I would have the battery checked. Not sure how thorough the tests are but stores like auto zone can test a battery and let you know if it’s failing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sounds good. I'll stop by later today.

    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Sounds more like alternator to me but AutoZone can check that too
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    OP said a new Bosch alternator was installed so I assumed it would work fine. Doesn’t hurt to check though, especially if the battery is tested to be good.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Could be...the original alternator was replaced with a remanufactured Bosch one. It failed same-day and we had to get a warranty replacement. This is a new one altogether but with the luck I've been having lately, it won't hurt to check it all out.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    I would have the battery checked. Not sure how thorough the tests are but stores like auto zone can test a battery and let you know if it’s failing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This. Advance Auto tested my battery and it tested good; still turned out to be bad, because a new battery solved the issue I was having at the time.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Irvine, California
    Posts
    701
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    My vote is battery. It needs to be load tested. Putting a volt meter across it is just testing the surface charge.
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    This. Advance Auto tested my battery and it tested good; still turned out to be bad, because a new battery solved the issue I was having at the time.
    I spoke with my guy at the shop (the one responsible for having carried this car to its current mileage) and apparently the symptoms I described above matched 100% with another previous customer of his - a Dakar Yellow E46 M3, manual. Turns out it was a wiring issue for him; the only difference was that his radio crackled when on while mine works fine but will cause the above to happen within minutes at higher MPH/RPMs.

    Either way, we'll thoroughly test the battery since it's been a few years since it was replaced, as well as explore whatever was the problem for that E46 M3 then.

    Thanks -

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Coolant light on briefly, however coolant level appears fine.
    By nsk040 in forum General -- ZHP Related
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-07-2016, 09:14 AM
  2. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-22-2016, 11:36 AM
  3. 2003 BMW 330i ZHP Sedan 6MT w/ 200k miles (Riverside, CA) - $6,200
    By BMWCurves in forum BMW 330 ZHPs For Sale (vehicles only)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-11-2016, 10:29 AM
  4. 2005 BMW 330Ci ZHP 6MT w/ 200k miles (Lakeland, FL) - $5,500
    By BMWCurves in forum BMW 330 ZHPs For Sale (vehicles only)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-23-2016, 05:16 AM
  5. 2003 BMW 330i ZHP, 6spd super nice, tons of miles to go, only 200k ! - $5700 (A-T-X)
    By ELCID86 in forum BMW 330 ZHPs For Sale (vehicles only)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-25-2014, 06:38 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •