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  1. #1

    clunky-ity clunk

    I think my RTABs have given it up. My car seems like it wants to steer from the rear going down the freeway and I get a clunking noise when going down streets with the "right" bumps. The car has 98,000 miles. The front FCABs were done at 60k. So...if I replace the RTABs what else should I replace while I'm doing that service? The shock mounts? Shocks? Anything else. I would love to get this car driving like it's supposed to. First post, glad to be a part of the Mafia.

  2. #2
    Might want to look at the diff bushings as well. Mine were shot at 95k and caused clunks while setting off from a stop.


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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,130
    Soinds like it could be RTABs or the rear lower control arm bushings. I'm in the process of changing all of them out for spherical bearings. I can provide some links for more info later.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    Rear Shock mounts
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  5. #5
    Is your goal to restore the car to "like new" feel, or just to solve the two problems you mention?

    Unless you are doing the work yourself, probably better to just do a full refresh all at once as that will be far cheaper than doing stuff piece meal.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the responses. It sounds like I'll replace the shock mounts, RTABs, and lower control arm bushings. I'll look at the diff bushings. Now I have to decide what to use. No shortage of options on parts for the cars. I've had the car for a year, and have done a fair bit on it. I really like the analog feel of the car.

  7. #7
    Jacked the car up this morning (and used jack stands), off came the wheels; grabbed the pry bar, and...I can lever the trailing arm 3/4" at least laterally. Also, grabbed the shock with my hand and can move it without great effort. So, new RTABs, upper shock mounts, and, ideally, I would like to put in new rear shocks. If I order new shocks (front and rear) does anybody see any problem with just changing out the rear shocks now, and then in the near future change the fronts? Thanks for the input advance.

    Cheers,

    Matt

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    You can replace just the rears as long as you do them as a pair, not just one.

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    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  9. #9
    Thanks, that's my plan. Going to try the Koni Actives that replaced the FSDs.

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