Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    36

    ZKW HID Bi-xenon solenoid connector/pins

    I thought I'd post this info up given that I recently did the Morimoto projector install on my '04 that had the burnt bowl issue. I did a comprehensive search and couldn't definitively find that anyone else had already posted this info.

    The Morimoto/LightWerkz/TRS RetroQuick kit includes a pigtail to connect the shutter solenoid to existing vehicle wiring.

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    Unfortunately, these included connectors are worthless imo on a headlight assembly that came equipped with bi-xenons and since I hate soldering unless there's no other option and I hate Scotchlok taps (I like connections to look professional and factory OEM), a better solution is to find the female connector and male pins to connect to the OEM plug that used to operate the shutter solenoid. It's also completely reversible should it be necessary. In addition, the OEM wires in my case were delicate to say the least. Each time I moved them the insulation would flake off a little. Liquid electrical tape was my choice for repair and to prevent further damage.

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    I sourced mine from onlinecomponents.com as they were one of the few that would sell by the piece rather than purchase in bulk quantities of 1000 or more or an entire reel of pins. Total cost with shipping was under $12 and I ordered twice as many as I needed in case I buggered something up.

    Part numbers to search for are as follows:

    AMP MQS Pin Connector - 1-928918-1

    AMP MQS Pin Header-3 Position - 1-968700-1

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    An inexpensive MOLEX-type crimper will work fine for these.

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    This what it will look like when assembled. Align and insert the pigtail white to mate to green(common/ground) and the brown to red (12v), although according to Morimoto their solenoids are NOT polarity sensitive.

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    Once assembled, simply insert the 2-pin connector supplied with the projectors into the solenoid socket and connect the original factory connector into your new male plug. Done.

    I hope this is useful to those that aren't comfortable soldering or that want a clean, reversible connection. Regardless if you have ZKW with 2 wires or Bosch/AL headlight assemblies with 3 wires, this will work as the connector is a 3-pin even though the Morimoto solenoid only requires 2 wires for 12v and ground according to the manufacturer. If anyone determines that this is incorrect, please let me know and I'll update this post.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Wow. I wish I better knew how to look up pin terminal and connector information was I was rebuilding my headlight wiring last winter. My wiring was in such terrible shape that almost every single wire had massive amounts of flaking insulation, so I just bought a bunch of color coded TXL wiring, cut off all the factory wiring, and soldered in the new. Having to reuse some of the connectors was a pain and would have preferred some new pins and connectors instead.

    Great job!

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    36
    I agree, mine were no better after 14 years baking inside the housing. This way there is very little manipulation of the existing solenoid wires and reduced chance of insulation damage. The only other option would be to find the socket number and corresponding pin and re-wire back from the ballast.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by sparky300 View Post
    I agree, mine were no better after 14 years baking inside the housing. This way there is very little manipulation of the existing solenoid wires and reduced chance of insulation damage. The only other option would be to find the socket number and corresponding pin and re-wire back from the ballast.
    If it's that bad, you should probably consider rewiring your assembly with new wire. It could be a fire hazard...

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    36
    I prob made it sound worse than it actually is. It really was only the 3 inches of wiring to the solenoid that were closest to the refector and I took care of that with liquid electrical tape. I inspected the rest of the working within the housing and it hasn't deteriorated.

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