Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    825

    Swapping side mirror motor (Ribbon Cable Motor type) DIY doityourself

    This was written up due to some people on here wanting to know how to tear down and swap their existing side mirror motors into replicas. This is specifically for the Euro-Division M3 replica mirrors but the same principal should apply to other replicas.

    This DIY is for the ribbon cable motors

    ---------------------------------------

    My car is a 2004 ZHP Sedan with the ribbon cables. The tear down of stock mirrors/motors should be the same for the 6-pin/12-pin/ribbon/etc cables.

    *Editor note: When I refer to the back of the mirror I am referring to the "base" side of the mirror. The base being the part that attaches to the car. Also note that I was able to source a set of old 330i mirrors from another member and didn't need to sacrifice my own set of mirrors for this install.

    * IMPORTANT NOTE: The ribbon cables are EXTREMELY delicate! I can't stress this enough! Use very delicate hands when pushing and ESPECIALLY pulling on the cables. If you are pulling on the cable you BETTER be pushing on the other end. These things will snap in a heartbeat and then...well...your gonna have to source another motor.

    The pics on this DIY is for the driver side. The only difference on the passenger side is that there is only one ribbon connector instead of two on the driver side.

    Step 1.
    Tear down your doors and remove the stock mirrors. There are numerous writeups on tearing down your door so i'll let you source that info yourself. Here is another link (yes it is for replacing speakers but the principal is the same) http://www.my330i.com/mod46.php. Just behind the top speaker there should be three star/torx bolts that hold the housing on. The easiest way to do this is with the window DOWN. That way you can have one hand holding up the mirror while another loosening up the screws from the interior. The last thing you need is a massive scratch down the side of your doors.

    Step 2.
    With the mirror out, find a flat space and assemble your tools:
    Large(r) phillips screwdriver
    Small(er) phillips screwdriver
    Set of picks (the orange set I have is the one that comes from BSW to tear down the interior)
    Sharpie
    Some electrical tape
    1'-2' of feeder wire or pullstring or something like that.


    Step 3.
    Mark off the white connector to show where the pins go and so you know which cable will go to what connector.


    Step 4.
    Using one of the picks, push in the pins on the connector and slightly pull on the connector as you push in on the pins


    Step 5.
    When both are out it should look like this:



    Step 6.
    Using the pick again, pop off the small plastic cover:


    Step 7.
    Pull the cable through the back of the base


    Step 8.
    Flip the entire thing over and pop off the mirror. Its held in there with four plastic clips. If you have heated mirrors then pull off from the OPPOSITE SIDE that i did in that pic or else you might break the cable connected to the mirror. Just like I did in the second picture. But since I don't need heated mirrors here in Phoenix, it was no big deal.



    Step 9.
    Using the smaller screwdriver, take off the four screws holding the plastic front piece.



    Step 10.
    Pop the four tabs that are holding the metal frame to the body.



    Step 11.
    With the metal frame pulled apart from the body, you'll have to feed the cable through the "spring" setup. Slowly push the cable in from one side while pulling it from the other till it is completely out. *NOTE: It might be necessary to pull off the existing OEM tape and kinda rework the cables to get it straight enough to fit through the spring.


    Step 12.
    Once the cable is free, remove the actual motor from the metal frame with the three screws. Once those screws are removed your left with nothing but the motor and ribbons



    Step 13.
    Grab the new housing and feed your feeder wire or pull string into the base hole and pull it out the mirror part.



    Step 14.
    Tie/Tape up the ribbon cable on the mirror side and slowly push it through from the mirror side to the base side. The hole that the wires go through to the base are a lot smaller than they really should be. It may be very very tight (thats what SHE said) to get the wires through so try and wiggle them as you push from one side and pull from the other. If it gets too tight try and put some lube on there (thats what SHE..... nevermind) like dishsoap.





    Step 15.
    Push through as much cable as you can as you move the motor into place. If you don't have the heated mirrors you can tuck those parts of the cable back into the housing somewhere. Use the SUPPLIED screws from Euro-Division to fasten the mirror motor to the housing. Do NOT reuse the old screw set. They may look identical but they aren't.


    Step 16.
    Put on the provided mirror holder. There should be four audible snapping positions that pop onto the stock motor.


    Step 17.
    Pull off the piece of paper on the double sided tape and press firmly (but carefully) to put the mirror glass on the mirror holder. * NOTE: Try to put the mirror on at the back/base side FIRST. If you do it the other way you will scratch the front of the inside of the housing removing some paint when the mirror moves and you position everything..... ask me how i know!!!!! argh! Try to eliminate the need to put the mirror on and then remove it and reposition it over and over. While the double sided tape is probably pretty good, you don't want to mess up the strength of the tape if possible. I realize that this might be hard to do, as it took me three-four times to get it lined up the correct way. During this process, i would gently move the motor in as many directions as I could with the mirror glass on so as to make sure I wasn't rubbing in any one direction.


    Step 18.
    Tape up the ribbon cable as best you can using the natural folds in the cable. Again, be gentle when taping up and folding. Then push the connectors back onto the pins, making sure to put the ones with the sharpie marks together correctly



    Step 19.
    Put the mirror back on the car. Reverse the directions in step 1. but do the following:
    1. Loosely hold the mirror on the car by finger tightening the three screws/bolts.
    2. Plug in the connectors
    3. Plug back in your mirror switch
    4. Turn the key in the ignition to the Auxillary position
    5. Try all your directions to make sure it moves (also try your memory seat buttons as these should move the mirror as well....if you have memory seats)
    If it works, then tighten the bolts up and finish up the door

    Step 20.
    Repeat the process for the passenger side. It will be the same with the exception of only ONE connector on the cable vs TWO on the driver side.

    End result:



    I really have no idea what I am doing

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    15,433
    Excellent write up. That will be very helpful. I have seen so many hack DIYs out there.

    Good work, J.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    825
    Thanks man, that is pretty much how I do all my write ups. Here's one I did on my old Grand Prix http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2434239


    I really have no idea what I am doing

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    979
    Wow, fabulous write up! Not real sure I'm up for it just yet but those M3 mirrors sure look nice...
    2016 BMW M340i


    BMW CCA Member . Dinan Stage 1 Software . Dinan 3.5" Exhaust . Dinan CAI & Turbo Inlet . VSRF Charge Pipe . H&R Sport Springs . CF: Front Splitter, Rear Valance, Trunk Spoiler, Roof Spoiler, M3 Mirror Covers . BMW Performance pedals . Gloss black ///M kidneys . 12mm F / 15mm R BMS Spacers. NGK 94201 Plugs .

    2013 BMW X5 M-Sport - Sold
    2009 550i M-Sport - Sold
    2006 650i Vert - Sold
    2004 330i ZHP - Dead
    2001 330i Sport - Sold
    2004 330i ZHP - Sold
    1999 E36 M3 - Sold

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ocean County, NJ
    Posts
    7,273
    Outstanding write up. Thank you.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing

    2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
    Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    I haz to fix my mirrors. They're on, but they don't work. I can hear the motors trying to move, but the mirror won't budge...
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Thanks for the contribution. Sezzy writeup, and not one that you always see.
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,642
    Wish I could actually see the photos for this thread.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Quote Originally Posted by Tnhl1989 View Post
    Wish I could actually see the photos for this thread.
    +1
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  10. #10

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Window Motor going out
    By Go Horns! in forum Mechanical | Troubleshooting
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 04-15-2014, 07:15 PM
  2. M54 Oil Leak-- Front of Motor
    By kayger12 in forum Mechanical | Troubleshooting
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 10-06-2013, 11:23 AM
  3. AKG Motor Mounts: 95a
    By wertyu78 in forum ZHP-Related Parts & Accessories (no vehicle sales)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-21-2013, 05:04 PM
  4. Need a New Motor? (BMW 330 ZHP M54 B30 ENGINE)
    By MsRN in forum ZHP-Related Parts & Accessories (no vehicle sales)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-05-2011, 06:31 AM
  5. How much motor oil do I need in the BMW 330 ZHP?
    By romanred62 in forum Maintenance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-26-2010, 08:44 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •