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Thread: '04 AW/Blk coupe project (engine replacement first)

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,552
    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    Yeah, a photo of your setup would be great!

    Did you use the hose from the m54 (11-61-1-432-559), photo from realoem:

    or the hose from the m56 (11-15-7-513-756), photo from ecstuning:

    I wish I had kept the old hoses to salvage the NORMA fittings.
    Neither, actually. I re-used the M54 hose #11617504535 ($7 at ECS for Uro, $13 for Rein, $46 for OEM):



    Photo of that item's location in the original CCV system, taken from GrahamE39 on Bimmerforum. Note in the below picture it is "connecting line #11611440317" (different part number because the pictured car was an M52TU).



    Because of the pre-shaped bend in the hose, and the orientation of the Y-shaped NORMA fitting, I needed to flip the hose as shown in the below pictures. The M56 outlet and intake manifold's inlet use the same size NORMA fitting, so reversing isn't an issue.

    In the first photo you can see it is routed above the fuel injector electrical connection thingy (that's a technical term), and that the second port of the Y-fitting is closed off with a vacuum cap. In the second photo you can see that the only real downside to reusing this hose is that it creates a slight lift on the intake manifold's beauty cover. I'm really not worried about that, though, because you only see that lift when looking from the side. From straight-on it looks tidy.





    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    269

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    269
    Installed the Z4M front sway and a 330cic rear sway tonight. So going from the stock 23.5mm/18mm setup to the 27mm/20mm is interesting. Turn-in is much sharper and flatter, as expected. I'm no Schumacher, but seems to understeer slightly more on long sweeping higher-speed curves (like freeway interchanges / ramps). The sharpness of turn-in was noticeably improved, though.

    I think I need more miles with this setup. Maybe pull the front bar from my m3 (26mm stock) and try a 26mm/20mm setup on the ZHP.

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    269
    I decided to finally do something about the torn trunk wiring grommet. I was afraid of water intrusion with rains, I notice a little bit when I was in the Pacific N.W. where it rained a lot.

    Following the detailed DIY on e46f (link) made it simple. I was afraid of the de-pinning that was required to remove the plug ends, but a nice sharp pick tool and some patience made it go smoothly. Tip: take some photos of the wiring / pin-outs (or just write down the wire colors to the pin #s).

    It was just under 2 hours working slowly. I didn't need a clothes hanger to fish the wires through the new grommet. I had taped the different branches to the main bundle and then just fed it through slowly.

    I also sprayed down the new grommet with some 303, hopefully it'll keep the rubber elastic and last a bit longer.

    Because everyone likes photos, here we go:

    Stripped the trunk lid carpet:


    The wiring harness fished out:



    De-pinned:



    Gently pulling the de-pinned wiring harness through the body and into the trunk:



    Taping the leads onto the main trunkline in preparation of feeding through the new grommet:



    Feeding the taped wiring harness through the new grommet. I shook out the remaining 303 protectant beforehand:



    Feeding the harness from the body in preparation of inserting into the trunk again:



    The new grommet slipped into place. The little triangle marker should point upwards on the body-side, and outwards on the trunk-side:



    Since I had some fabric tape (this was purchased through the dealer, but I'm sure Amazon or local parts stores will carry it) I decided to add some protection against fraying from rubbing on the metal (it was probably unnecessary):



    Just the wiring harness going back into the trunk:




    Test your tail lights and the trunk release before closing the trunk to ensure wiring is ok.

    The new grommet installed, in all of its glory:

    Last edited by Will; 03-29-2020 at 04:41 PM. Reason: spelling

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    17,180
    Nice werk.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, Ground Control Coilovers, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  6. #76
    Cool! I need to do this to the Touring... except it has *two* of those things.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    -Corey

    2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 210k
    Dead due to damaged valve. We will save her soul for future use, but the body will go to car heaven...or another owner...who may or may not turn her into a race car...

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    269
    Quote Originally Posted by DeathTrap View Post
    Cool! I need to do this to the Touring... except it has *two* of those things.

    It'll go quicker than you initially think. I thought it'd be a 3-5 hour job, but it ended up less than 2. I was hesitant to do this because of the required de-pining / losing track of pins/plugs, tearing wiring. As long as you take your time, go gently, and document the wiring/pin-outs before you disassemble the plug-ends, you'll be fine.

    Just keep this in mind while fishing / pulling wiring through the grommet or anywhere else: it should be smooth. If there's a snag, STOP, back the wiring out and address what's snagging.

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    269
    While replacing the sway bars I noticed some wetness on the driver's side fuel tank. A little investigation and I found it was leaking gasoline from the topside, enough so that it'd fill up the bowl section of the suction pump. I'm not sure what caused the leak, or specifically where it's leaking from, so I decided to replace the suction pump unit along with the gasket.

    Here's the view from underneath:






    Full of leaked fuel:




    The suction pump / level sender arrived today so it got installed. This is the one on the driver's side. #2, #3, #4 and #5 in the realoem diagram (link):




    I went with a OEM Continental / VDO unit, which comes with #2, #3, #5 assembled. I was hoping just to get the level sender (#2) and not the suction tubing (#3), but that option was only available as the OE BMW unit ($145+). The OEM unit was from Pelican - would have been $20 less from Partsgeek but they were out of stock.



    Continental / VDO is the OEM. BMW markings scratched off:



    I contemplated leaving the old suction tubing (#3) in place and reusing it, but since I had the new one I couldn't resist. I doubt there's a big demand for this part so I just installed it. The job would have been easier had I left the original piece in place - wouldn't have to remove the fuel pump from the passenger side. I hope I don't regret this decision.

    When I replaced the fuel pump a few months ago I didn't siphon any fuel out and it was full... it made a huge mess.

    I wasn't able to siphon fuel from the fuel filler neck. From the fuel pump outlet was the only way I was able to do it. 4.5 gallons out:



    Old tubing on bottom:



    I guess the new one will form itself after some time... well, I hope it does.

    The curve is to cross the driveshaft hump, and the output (left side of photo) gets inserted into a bracket underneath the real fuel pump. Removal of the old tubing from, and insertion of the new tubing into, the bracket is what necessitates removal of the fuel pump from the passenger side.


    Gratuitous photo of the suction tube. Same markings on old (the curved one on top) and new (straight one on bottom):



    It was kind of a hassle to fish the tubing through to the passenger side. It would have been nice to have an almost empty tank so my left arm wouldn't have to be submerged in gasoline. Oh well. Did it quickly and washed thoroughly afterwards.

    Here's the suction tubing outlet inserted into the bracket. It's underneath the real fuel pump on the passenger side. Orientation - Top of photo is the front of the car:



    No more photos of this job, sorry. I just wanted to finish it ASAP as I was being bathed in gasoline fumes. Wearing a P95 mask helped, but the fumes were still irritating to me.

    Wrapped it up, tested it, and so far so good. No leaks with the engine running, no leaks after shut down. Will keep any eye on it.

    I'm not sure where the original was leaking from, but it was filling the bowl of the lid and quite concerning. I examined the lid of the old suction pump (filled the bowl with water and let it sit) but couldn't find the leak. I have a feeling it was either the hose clamp / hose or the gasket into the tank, so I probably spent $100 more than I probably needed to.

    Either way, parts are replaced now and I'll watch out for any leaks in the coming days.

    I'm really glad I swapped sway bars, though. Who knows if / when I would have discovered this fuel leak ... probably would have suspected something when the car catches on fire and burns to the ground.


    Edit: Just add a completion photo:

    Last edited by Will; 04-05-2020 at 10:56 AM. Reason: clarity. photos

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    17,180
    Def glad you caught that!

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, Ground Control Coilovers, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    269
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    Def glad you caught that!
    Thanks, John, same here. I think it would have turned catastrophic.

    I think I found the crack in the original suction pump. The dust / dirt settled into the nooks and crannies of the lid and seemed to have filled-in the crack. It wasn't apparent when I first examined it, nor when I filled it with water and let it sit, but it's pretty obvious now.

    The "n" shaped dark line over the "VDO" script:




    It looks like Tim had something similar happen to his car as well, but I'm not sure if it was the suction pump (driver's side) like mine, or the actual fuel pump (passenger side). (link)
    Last edited by Will; 04-23-2020 at 12:09 AM.

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