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Thread: Ed's Mystic ZHP Project and Maintenance Log

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    Fixed my possessed side mirrors. I had to pull the fuse on my road trip home after I bought the car because they would move on their own while I was driving, which was so bizarre and really dangerous. They also didn't respond to the mirror switch, making things wonderfully infuriating. Some research and reading indicated that a lot of E46 owners have this issue and no one came up with a definitive solution. Some say the ribbon cables, some say the driver's mirror motor, some say the passenger mirror motor, some say the switch, no one really seemed to know.

    Well for one thing, the ribbon cable is all one with the motor, so you have to replace them together. In my case, I can confidently say it was the driver's mirror motor, as my ribbon cable looked perfect and swapping them proved to be a success. Of course, take the donor mirror and plug it into the car first to make sure it fixes your problem. As soon as I did, the mirror switch immediately worked and controlled both mirrors. Once you pull the good motor and ribbon out, do the same test just to be sure everything still works and nothing got damaged.

    Here are some pics...I grabbed a driver's mirror from a '04 Mystic blue E46 in the junkyard. I couldn't just swap the whole mirror mainly because the base was matte black and not the gloss black of the ZHP. Plus it was more beat up than mine anyway.

    Remove the glass to expose the motor assembly. I've already removed the 3 screws that hold the motor to the housing.
    20190401_191505 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Remove the mirror cover and foam to expose the ribbon cable where it wraps around the housing and dives into the base.
    20190401_191519 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Remove the cover on the under side of the mirror so you can get better access to were the ribbon cable comes through. Pry from the middle of the cover...the edge closest to the outside of the mirror has a tab that will pull out. The opposite side toward the base has two long tabs on it that will not pry out.
    20190401_191948 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190401_193949 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Mark the ribbon cable for each connector. You will be removing the plastic connectors from the ribbon cable so you can slide the ribbon out of the housing. If you look close on the connectors, you will see where it is marked for pin 1 and 3.
    20190401_191723 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190401_191719 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190401_191911 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Remove the foam on the base to make it easier to get the ribbon cable out.
    20190401_191941 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Watch how the ribbon cable is routed so you can put it back the same way. If you notice, the ribbon is wrapped at places with black tape. You will have to play this by ear, since some will slide through, but others you may have to unwrap to pull through the base and the rewrap after. The wrap is where the cable is folded and taped for protection.
    20190401_191944 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190401_191952 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190401_192916 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190401_192039 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Then it is just the reverse to slip that good motor/ribbon into your good housing. Then, enjoy your newly working mirrors

    After that, I decided to wash her for the first time (yikes, I know). Threw a quick layer of wax on for protection. I was trying to hold out until I had enough time to clay, compound, polish, seal, and wax. I was surprised the paint wasn't as bad as I thought. The trunk lid has a bunch of scratches on it. Will be hard to get those completely out. But overall not bad. Cleaned up nice and looks so good with the wheels cleaned. Sorry for the night time shots...doesn't do the paint or the color justice. I LOVE this blue. Was thinking Orient, but I wouldn't have been happy with how dark it is. This still looks blue in darker lighting.

    20190402_200841 by racer2086, on Flickr

    20190402_200835 by racer2086, on Flickr
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    Oh, and flipped 111k on Sunday.

    2019-04-08_11-56-44 by racer2086, on Flickr

    Still gotta smoke test the engine to find vacuum leaks. SES light is on and off.
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    15,604
    I absolutely hate those stupid ribbon motors. I've wanted the tilting feature since my E30 days, and when I bought my ZHP with poorly retrofitted M3 mirrors, it didn't work. I was so bummed. I've replaced motor after motor and none of them worked 100% properly. Sick of dealing with these stupid ribbon motors.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun



    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    I absolutely hate those stupid ribbon motors. I've wanted the tilting feature since my E30 days, and when I bought my ZHP with poorly retrofitted M3 mirrors, it didn't work. I was so bummed. I've replaced motor after motor and none of them worked 100% properly. Sick of dealing with these stupid ribbon motors.
    Yeah, I mean looking at it, they seem so fragile and not a great long-term material for something that gets weathered, moved, and used fairly regularly. I mean if you fold the mirrors in manually parking in the street, that's twisting that ribbon cable.

    I'm surprised you've replaced the motor and still have the problem. Maybe you got a couple bum motors?

    Took this today just because. Will never see 111,111 again.
    2019-04-09_02-58-44 by racer2086, on Flickr
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    Haven't updated this thread in a long time. The car has been very spoiled in the last 2 months...

    Both front window regulators have been replaced. The passenger side had a crappy aftermarket one that sounded like you were tearing nylon when the window goes up or down. It was something inside where that cable wraps up that was doing it. Both regulators I zip-tied like the thread on here, so hopefully they don't go bad for 10+ years.

    Next, I got a switch center from an M3 with the tire pressure button and sport button. I ran a wire to the DSC for the TPMS and also installed a v2 Sprint booster I bought new off Ebay. The TPMS I coded, but doesn't work because my module is CI-12 and not CI-13. Bummer. But the sprint booster works great. I wired it in totally different from the write up on here, and made a schematic of the two-wire sprint booster button, for others in the future:


    Measuring the voltage across the black and red wires going to the switch, voltage is near 0 volts when the thing is in normal mode. In green mode, the voltage is positive ~5v and in red mode, the voltage is negative ~-5v. That's why the red LED needs to be flipped in circuit to work.

    I did not unsolder anything from the sprint booster switch itself. I just added wiring to the relevant spots and ran the Sport button and new LEDs in parallel with the sprint booster components.

    Here is the sprint booster untouched:


    And here it is with the wiring soldered:


    I added a BMW connector to the new wires, which will go to the new wires from the switch center. This way things can be easily disconnected if removal is necessary in the future.


    I will make another post with what I did with the switch center. I used the factory pins in the back for the actual switch, so no switch replacement or modification is necessary (from the factory, the switch is designed to just ground the pin it goes to on the DME), and only added wires for the new LEDs.
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    For the sport button, I bought LEDs off amazon and used some thin gauge wire I had to solder to them. I did not glue them to the button circuit board, but rather just glued them together and then soldered to them with the wires. It's pretty delicate, so getting it back in the switch panel is tricky. But cut the plastic cage for the button with a dremel so the wires have room to go through.

    Amazon LEDs: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Here are the LEDs set into the button. REMEMBER -- the red LED needs to be reversed! You can see where the wires go through the plastic:






    This is the wire that goes from pin 17 of the switch center (this is the line from the sport button switch that grounds the DME in the M3 to signal sport engaged). In line with my wire is a resistor that simulates the 1k resistor in line of the sprint booster button as shown in the schematic above. This wire plugs into the BMW connector plug that connects to the sprint booster switch.



    Success! Makes the car feel like it has 30 more HP.


    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    Found a set of metal pedals in the junkyard. They were for an auto, so I just used the dead pedal.



    And then it got a full compound, polish, and seal with Griots Poly Wax





    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    5,477
    GREAT job on the Sport button. Ty for sharing.
    2005 IR / black / 6MT
    148,000 miles

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    171
    PDC Retrofit also done! And at the same time, I re-clearcoated the top of the back bumper. The clearcoat was entirely stripped from the bumper above the black trim. I figured I should do all of this, while I was retrofitting the PDC, since the bumper had to come off and the trim swapped out.

    It turned out pretty good. From 6 feet away it looks great. Up close you can see some orange peel even after 2 rounds of wet sanding. And up near the rear wheel wells, you can see the line where the remaining clear coat starts despite trying to bevel it. It's not that bad, though.

    Here are some pics of how things looked before the clear coat.

    [/url]20190602_160358 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_160402 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_160407 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_160410 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_160413 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_160422 by racer2086, on Flickr


    Here it is with the clear coat dried before any wet sanding or polishing. I used Wurth Clear Coat, which says it gives 2k performance without the two parts. Wurth provides a lot of material for German car manufacturers lines. I'm happy with it.

    [/url]20190602_181118 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_181122 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_181128 by racer2086, on Flickr

    [/url]20190602_181139 by racer2086, on Flickr


    Wet-sanded:






    And finally compounded and polished:






    PDC Trim installed:




    And back on the car with sensors in place:




    I was shocked to see how just cleaning the base layer of paint and coating with clear coat brought the metallic right back out. It appeared to have zero metallic left without the clear coat, but once painted, it popped again like the rest of the car. So cool. All in about $30 for the clear coat and wet/dry sand paper and about 4 hours of time, including dry time.
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,389
    Really impressive results
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

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