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Thread: Clutch Feel and Engagement Point

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    160

    Clutch Feel and Engagement Point

    Still pretty new to my car. It's got almost 112k now.

    After driving it for a bit and then going into some other manual cars, I've noticed some differences and I'd like to know if they are normal...

    For one, the clutch is very light, but I think that's normal for hydraulically assisted ones. My dad's E46 M3 isn't that much heavier. But my 5.0 Mustang is very heavy.

    Second, the clutch doesn't seem to grab until the end of pedal travel. The M3 and my Mustang start grabbing shortly off the floor. The ZHP seems to grab at the end of pedal travel. This makes it hard to shift quickly sometimes, since the clutch grabs so late.

    I imagine the car still has the CDV, since it's all original from what I know. Is there an adjustment for how soon or late in pedal travel the clutch grabs? What feel does the CDV change when removed? I have no problem with how it feels when it's engaging, just when.
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    581
    I did the CDV delete and recommend it. The engagement point always varied; now it engages consistently in the bottom to middle third of the travel.

    I had a heavily modified '90 5.0 LX coupe; there is no comparison between the clutch of that car and the ZHP, I think mostly because the ZHP is hydraulic and the Mustang was not, but it may also be due to the dual-mass flywheel on the ZHP.
    -Chris


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    2,456
    Definitely delete the cdv and see how it feels after that. If it still grabs near the top, then that's a good thing! You can disable the clutch-fully-depressed requirement to start the car and then add a clutch stop to reduce travel. Shorter clutch travel = quicker shifting

    Edit: I should clarify that the clutch grabbing at the top of the pedal travel could be exacerbated by the cdv. It may actually grab near the middle, but the cdv slows the reaction of the clutch so it doesn't move as quickly as you release the pedal, therefore your pedal is almost all the way out by the time the clutch engages the flywheel.
    Last edited by ZHPizza; 05-10-2019 at 04:34 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    3,933
    I agree with all that but grabbing at the top of the pedal travel, isn't that a sign that the clutch is thinning or might start slipping? Mine engages in the bottom 3rd of the pedal travel. A clutch stop might not really give the OP an engagement spot closer to the bottom of the pedal travel.
    CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump....
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    160
    This is kinda what I'm wondering. Is it worn and out of room for adjustment?

    How hard is it to delete the CDV? Do you have to bleed the system after?
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    3,933
    It is easy (I was there when Shawn did it in front of me a few years back, took all but 3 minutes). If I remember right, you can pinch the tubes on wither side of the CDV and you won't loose fluid (correct me if I am wrong).

    I don't see how removing CDV changes the engagement point though.
    CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump....
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  7. #7
    My clutch engages somewhere between the rearview mirror and the dome light.
    2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 205k
    Paint chips | Current MIL: None | Airbag Light | Poorly Sprayed Black Style 135s |Ugly Alcantara Steering Wheel | Trunk Squeak | Faded Shadowline Trim
    Next repair: Replace old, rusty subframe with a fully refreshed one.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    2,456
    Removing the cdv does not change the clutch engagement point. I was just saying that you should remove it anyway because it makes the engagement point consistent. Then you can add a clutch stop to eliminate the extra pedal travel after the engagement point. Bada Bing Bada boom quicker shifts.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    160
    Do I have to bleed the line if removed? I imagine some air will get in there no matter how hard you try. Does it self bleed or something?
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
    '98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    3,933
    No bleeding that I can remember after getting rid off the CDV.
    CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump....
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

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