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Thread: CV Boot Noise

  1. #1

    CV Boot Noise

    Iím an idiot.

    When re-installing the CV joints I used a hammer to try to get them in to the axle. They refused, and in the end I used a chisel, dry ice, and a blowtorch.

    I think theyíre making noise now, although Iím not 100% sure. What do bad CV joints sound like? I want to nail down this diagnosis.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    589
    Quote Originally Posted by Fried_Chicken View Post
    What do bad CV joints sound like?
    YouTube has a bunch of videos you could use for reference...
    -Chris


  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by cornercarver View Post
    YouTube has a bunch of videos you could use for reference...
    I see a lot for the front, but nothing for the back. I hear a very sublte sort of clunking that doesn’t resonate through the body (I don’t feel anything). Only at low speed.

  4. #4
    I think it’s the CV axles; Do these typically go bad? I want to get some used ones from someone parting out their car. They’re universal across the e46 (except M3), with the difference being between the AT and the MT. Mine were fine at 160k miles but putting some with over 200k miles on seems stupid

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    15,605
    They do not typically go bad unless the boots have been torn for a while.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun



    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  6. #6
    Check the lash in the differential and the center support bearing too. If it were me, I would do the following:
    1) Put car on jackstands and try to recreate the noise. Have a helper modulate throttle in order to vary the load on the axles while you look for irregularities.
    If you see nothing, do this:
    2) Remove axle shafts from the car and inspect them closely. Repeat step 1, this time without axles and note the difference. If you hear a noise, use a mechanics stethoscope (just put the butt of a long screwdriver up to your ear) and touch the other side to the CSB and differential. Listen for anything funky.
    If you've still found nothing, do this:
    3) Disconnect prop shaft from differential and ensure that there's no pinion movement, or excessive play between the two drive wheels. Refer to the service manual for these limits.
    If you're still lost:
    4) Inspect wheel bearings, rear bushings, sway bar end links. Check your exhaust hangers and routing as well.
    If it's none of these:
    5) Divide by 0.
    - '03 ZHP Schwartz Sedan/6MT: Bistein/H&R, PFC Z-Rated, Square 235's, Supa-Silky-Soft Coby Treatment (194K)
    - '04 M3 Alpine White Coupe/6MT: Track Prepped, Loved, *Sold and Missed (114K)
    - '04 ZHP Alpine White Coupe/6MT: Koni/H&R, PFC08's, *Totaled By a Wild Subaru On The Highway (152K)
    - '84 Mercedes Benz 300D/4AT: Bilstein Komforts + Michelin Rubber = Uber Komfort! (Who Knows)
    - '11 Honda Civic Si Sedan/6MT: The other half's VTEC machine/ the car that needs no work. EVER. (122k)

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