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Thread: Nextelbuddy final zhp wagon project

  1. #11
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    That looks awesome Shawn!! GLWS


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    .........2008 GT Silver 997.1tt.........................2004 TiAg ///M......................2001.5 Audi S4 Avant.........

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cakM3 View Post
    That looks awesome Shawn!! GLWS


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    Thanks man! It's hard to believe it's a 2000 car, with all the updates it feels but like a 2005 ZHP now. Love the way it handles and the steering feel is wonderful. I wish I could retrofit the m54 lf2 power Sterling pump to the S54 on my red car, it's lovely with it's minimal assistance.
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  3. #13
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    Added some mudflaps





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    Last edited by nextelbuddy; 09-18-2019 at 06:29 AM.
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  4. #14
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    Nov 2016
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    Welp. Crickets in here. Probably should have just left it stock at this point lol.

    Anyway zhp engine wasn't selling so just pulled it and dropped jn s54 with rod bearing service. Drives great with then zf 6 speed t and new luk Clutch kit.

    Something this smooth and quiet has convinced me to go ahead and trunk floor pan swap on my red sedan and run am oem m3 exhaust system when ever I get time to work on that car .

    Will be getting new videos and pics and try to decide if I want to risk this car on bring a trailer.

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    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  5. #15
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    duuuuuude......

    If my finances were in order I would drop $$$ for this touring right now. I'm surprised to see no one talking to you about this awesome resurrection Name:  giphy.gif
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    .........2008 GT Silver 997.1tt.........................2004 TiAg ///M......................2001.5 Audi S4 Avant.........

  6. #16
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    Nextelbuddy final zhp wagon project

    Unreal work Shawn. love following it on insta too. I’m really interested in seeing what this car sells for (which it most certainly will). Maybe the lack of ZHP sale was just due to an inopportune time of the year to sell a car??

    As for the trunk floor, I just recently completed a full M3 swap on a Mystic blue wag - full MTech like this one - and did the trunk floor swap to set it apart from the rest (can you believe there is a “rest” for s54 swapped wagons lol). Highly recommended, it looks awesome and it’s great to have the flexibility to be able to run a full m3 setup. A friend and I DIY’d it - if you plan on doing it yourself hit me up with any q’s.




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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stigissimo View Post
    Unreal work Shawn. love following it on insta too. I’m really interested in seeing what this car sells for (which it most certainly will). Maybe the lack of ZHP sale was just due to an inopportune time of the year to sell a car??

    As for the trunk floor, I just recently completed a full M3 swap on a Mystic blue wag - full MTech like this one - and did the trunk floor swap to set it apart from the rest (can you believe there is a “rest” for s54 swapped wagons lol). Highly recommended, it looks awesome and it’s great to have the flexibility to be able to run a full m3 setup. A friend and I DIY’d it - if you plan on doing it yourself hit me up with any q’s.




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    Yeah totally if you have any pictures or tips for how to get the Trunk floor out clean let me know. The only thing that was holding me back really was I wanted to make sure that I cut out the floor nice and not ugly lol. When I cut out the fenders for the car from a parts car I tried to cut out the floor pan with a cut-off wheel and also a sawzall.. I just could not get it all the way out so I gave up since I already had an existing solution in place of the time. I tried using a spot well drill bit to drill out all the spot welds that didn't help as much as I wanted it to unfortunately..

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    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  8. #18
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    Nextelbuddy final zhp wagon project

    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    Yeah totally if you have any pictures or tips for how to get the Trunk floor out clean let me know. The only thing that was holding me back really was I wanted to make sure that I cut out the floor nice and not ugly lol. When I cut out the fenders for the car from a parts car I tried to cut out the floor pan with a cut-off wheel and also a sawzall.. I just could not get it all the way out so I gave up since I already had an existing solution in place of the time. I tried using a spot well drill bit to drill out all the spot welds that didn't help as much as I wanted it to unfortunately..

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    Interesting! I didn’t know you had it in the plans originally.

    We actually took the latter approach: drilled out the spot welds. The trick is to be able to find all of them. The tub also splits into two sheets (an upper piece and lower piece) where it meets up towards the front of the car, because of the rear chassis design.

    We used an angle grinder to separate the upper piece from the interior crossmember-type thing, while the lower piece meets the undercarriage metal 1/2 way down the front part of the tire tub at the spot welds. From there, we literally hammered it out.

    However, in hindsight, I wouldn’t recommend this approach. We killed hours drilling spot welds and gingerly hammering it out - it was 3 am on a Sunday night after a full day before we got the M3 tub swapped over and tacked in. And while the idea of drilling spot welds was to preserve the metal, we ended up with Swiss cheese edges and a piece of metal no better preserved than if we cut it out. The benefit was that the drilled edges of the new tub would rest on top of the lip left in the wagon chassis, meaning that biotch was goin’ nowhere.

    If you decide to go for it, shoot me a Pm and we can do a brain dump.















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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stigissimo View Post
    Interesting! I didn’t know you had it in the plans originally.

    We actually took the latter approach: drilled out the spot welds. The trick is to be able to find all of them. The tub also splits into two sheets (an upper piece and lower piece) where it meets up towards the front of the car, because of the rear chassis design.

    We used an angle grinder to separate the upper piece from the interior crossmember-type thing, while the lower piece meets the undercarriage metal 1/2 way down the front part of the tire tub at the spot welds. From there, we literally hammered it out.

    However, in hindsight, I wouldn’t recommend this approach. We killed hours drilling spot welds and gingerly hammering it out - it was 3 am on a Sunday night after a full day before we got the M3 tub swapped over and tacked in. And while the idea of drilling spot welds was to preserve the metal, we ended up with Swiss cheese edges and a piece of metal no better preserved than if we cut it out. The benefit was that the drilled edges of the new tub would rest on top of the lip left in the wagon chassis, meaning that biotch was goin’ nowhere.

    If you decide to go for it, shoot me a Pm and we can do a brain dump.















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    do you think you can take one of the pictures that you posted and maybe use a sketch tool or something to draw a rudimentary line showing where you actually would recommend cutting?

    Also once the trunk floor pan Is in place there is also mounting studs underneath of the battery box and the driver side that are supposed to accept the E46 M3 exhaust hanger brackets... normally if you replace the whole trunk floor you buy the whole piece online and it's the tub and the battery box all in one piece that gets welded in and then M3 battery box has those little mounting studs already built in but on non amp battery box is no studs don't exist so what was your solution for that?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    2003 ZHP 332i | S54 6 speed
    2002 ZHP Touring | M54 6 Speed

  10. #20
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    North Reading, MA
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    Nextelbuddy final zhp wagon project

    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    do you think you can take one of the pictures that you posted and maybe use a sketch tool or something to draw a rudimentary line showing where you actually would recommend cutting?
    Sure. Here’s what I could do on the old trusty iPhone:




    I think there are two options for the front section:

    1) Drill the spot welds along the blue line. This will separate the lower sheet. Cut the upper sheet along the crossmember (red line) and you can swap the whole tub up to that point.

    2)avoid cutting the upper sheet altogether (red line above the blue line), and cut directly along the spot welds (blue line). You’ll be swapping the “lower half” of the tub, replacing the area outlined by spot welds the whole way around, nothing more. Done right, this is probably the simplest method, avoids cutting the crossmember, but is much more dependent on getting a clean/identical cut along the front of both tubs.

    For the sides, use the spot welds as a guide for your cut line.

    On the m3, cut on the outside of the spot welds, right up against the frame rail, with the goal of having it be a little larger than the hole you cut out of the non-m.

    Then on the non-m, cut to the inside of the spot welds, leaving a ridge containing the spot welds along the sides . Your larger M3 cutout will rest on top of this ledge, as if you had drilled spot welds out (just like mine did). This guarantees you will never lose the floor out the bottom lol.

    For the rear, cut along the corner, or drill spot welds if you want more lip area to weld.

    Overall it’s a better/safer way than trying to cut identically sized hole/cutouts in both chassis and having to deal with lining up what you didn’t cut exactly right.

    I found some more pics of cutting out of the M3, it highlights where the spot welds are:





    Quote Originally Posted by nextelbuddy View Post
    Also once the trunk floor pan Is in place there is also mounting studs underneath of the battery box and the driver side that are supposed to accept the E46 M3 exhaust hanger brackets... normally if you replace the whole trunk floor you buy the whole piece online and it's the tub and the battery box all in one piece that gets welded in and then M3 battery box has those little mounting studs already built in but on non amp battery box is no studs don't exist so what was your solution for that?

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    Ah, the benefit of living 35 mins down the road from Turner Motorsport

    The driver’s side has one additional hangar mount directly aft of the non-m mount. The mount is actually a drop through bracket, with the bracket secured to the interior of the car and studs poking through the floor. I cut the corner of the floor out (after taking measurements). On the passenger side, the mount is a bracket welded to the frame rail. I used a grinder to grind it off.

    This part is for sure DIY able, but my buddy who welds and I couldn’t get the brackets done on the day that he had planned to come 2.5 hours south to help me. So I took them to turner. They found that the driver bracket is actually a purchasable part, and purchased it to drop through the floor from inside the car. For the passenger side, they reused my M bracket. It cost me around $550. However, factory mounts. Way better than any alternative.

    Sorry I didn’t grab pics of the brackets. It’s fairly straightforward though.

    Keep in mind once swapped, you have to swap over the M3 evap system, lines and all. I cut the m3 wires and used them (and the connector) to extend the non-m canister harness. Connector is the same, as is the wiring. Direct swap and no codes.


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    Last edited by Stigissimo; 10-28-2019 at 07:30 PM.

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