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Thread: Hard to start at times and now to crank

  1. #1

    Hard to start at times and now to crank

    03 zhp 150k, 6spd

    codes i got
    P0430 camshaft position sensor A
    P1315 i don't know this one
    rough idle and bounced slowly

    Car was hard to start at times, i would have to crank for couple of seconds, specially after shutting the car off and trying to start it back up

    Did a vacuum test and found a small leak from camshaft position sensor, swapped it out and car idles better, drove around the neighborhood putting 5 miles, no codes so far.

    Only have 1 key and it didn't work, ordered a new battery and swapped it out, tried registering no luck. Tried starting it and it took longer then usual, cranking and no start, let it off then tried again it started. I tried it again and now no crank just click sound. After couple second i tried starting and it started, let it run for a minute and shut it off, tried starting again i got the click sound, thinking its the battery might be going weak i checked it with my volt meter and it showed 12.6volts. I told my wife to try to start it while i watch the volt meter and it dropped to 7.2 volts and lights dimmed. Left the battery on charger overnight and tried starting it today, same thing click sound. Parked our SUV Sequoia behind zhp and let it run while jumping ZHP with cables to the battery to see if it will start, nope still just click sound and lights dim. Even got the battery charger and set it on start and jumped it from terminals under the hood.

    Could it be starter solenoid or the started finally gave out? I don't believe its battery

    Cliffs:
    car was hard to start from beginning cranking longer then usual, idle jumpy and rough, had codes, erased codes, did vacuum leak, found leak and changed camshaft sensor, idle better not jumpy, drove around, have 1 key fob didn't work got a new battery, tried registering didn't work probably bad module, car started couple times with long cranks, then just sound click no crank, then started again, then click no crank, and now click no crank lights dim with jumping the battery.

  2. #2
    Pretty sure the battery is shot. Resting voltage at 12.6VDC is pretty good, but the voltage under load 7.2VDC is low. Your battery can't supply enough current to get the starter motor to turn.
    2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 205k
    Paint chips | Current MIL: None | Airbag Light | Poorly Sprayed Black Style 135s |Ugly Alcantara Steering Wheel | Trunk Squeak | Faded Shadowline Trim
    Next repair: Replace old, rusty subframe with a fully refreshed one.

  3. #3
    Swapped batteries from our family car which always starts 2010 Toyota Sequoia, still no crank just click, took ZHP battery and it started Sequoia no problem.

  4. #4
    Battery dated Oct 2017, dropped off to my local pep boys and tested good.

    Sent from my SM-J727T1 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Found out the click is coming from starter
    I threw a volt meter on solenoid switch and when i turn the key to start only getting 3.1-3.4 volts.

  6. #6
    Good find!
    Does the ignition switch connect directly to that wire?

    Does it measure 12v when disconnected from the starter?

    What's the resistance from the solenoid pin to ground?

    How's your engine to chassis ground?

    Curious minds would like to know

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 205k
    Paint chips | Current MIL: None | Airbag Light | Poorly Sprayed Black Style 135s |Ugly Alcantara Steering Wheel | Trunk Squeak | Faded Shadowline Trim
    Next repair: Replace old, rusty subframe with a fully refreshed one.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by DeathTrap View Post
    Good find!
    Does the ignition switch connect directly to that wire?

    Does it measure 12v when disconnected from the starter?

    What's the resistance from the solenoid pin to ground?

    How's your engine to chassis ground?

    Curious minds would like to know

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    I checked connections and ground and cleaned battery terminals and I didnt find the ground for pass side engine compartment.
    I ended up taking off starter which wasn't pleasant at all. I didn't remove the manifold, used 3/8 wrench and lots of extension for e12 socket. Used the extension from underneath the car next to transmission and 3/8 wrench from top.
    Correct me if I'm testing my starter right way: used my battery + went where the red cable was and - went to body of starter and used a red wire to activate solenoid. The solenoid would extend the sprocket but did not spin.

    Sent from my SM-J727T1 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    That should be proper. Maybe the motor portion is dead?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    2003 Blue ZHP Sedan @ 205k
    Paint chips | Current MIL: None | Airbag Light | Poorly Sprayed Black Style 135s |Ugly Alcantara Steering Wheel | Trunk Squeak | Faded Shadowline Trim
    Next repair: Replace old, rusty subframe with a fully refreshed one.

  9. #9
    This sounds silly, but have you checked the fuel pump? I had almost identical symptoms on 2 e46's and both times it turned out to be the fuel pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by russlan44 View Post
    03 zhp 150k, 6spd

    codes i got
    P0430 camshaft position sensor A
    P1315 i don't know this one
    rough idle and bounced slowly

    Car was hard to start at times, i would have to crank for couple of seconds, specially after shutting the car off and trying to start it back up

    Did a vacuum test and found a small leak from camshaft position sensor, swapped it out and car idles better, drove around the neighborhood putting 5 miles, no codes so far.

    Only have 1 key and it didn't work, ordered a new battery and swapped it out, tried registering no luck. Tried starting it and it took longer then usual, cranking and no start, let it off then tried again it started. I tried it again and now no crank just click sound. After couple second i tried starting and it started, let it run for a minute and shut it off, tried starting again i got the click sound, thinking its the battery might be going weak i checked it with my volt meter and it showed 12.6volts. I told my wife to try to start it while i watch the volt meter and it dropped to 7.2 volts and lights dimmed. Left the battery on charger overnight and tried starting it today, same thing click sound. Parked our SUV Sequoia behind zhp and let it run while jumping ZHP with cables to the battery to see if it will start, nope still just click sound and lights dim. Even got the battery charger and set it on start and jumped it from terminals under the hood.

    Could it be starter solenoid or the started finally gave out? I don't believe its battery

    Cliffs:
    car was hard to start from beginning cranking longer then usual, idle jumpy and rough, had codes, erased codes, did vacuum leak, found leak and changed camshaft sensor, idle better not jumpy, drove around, have 1 key fob didn't work got a new battery, tried registering didn't work probably bad module, car started couple times with long cranks, then just sound click no crank, then started again, then click no crank, and now click no crank lights dim with jumping the battery.

  10. #10
    Problem solved, it was my starter, got a used working starter, stopped by auto zone and they tested it twice and it passed. Thanks guys
    Great time to check Disa valve, clean out idle control valve and check intake boot for cracks.

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