The Orient Steed: Yet Another Touring Story

[av8drvr]

Wow, I have not done my homework on this one, thanks for the thorough response. I plan on owning this for a long time so I am going to go your route with the BMW bearing.

[cakM3]

I also have a niiiiiiice set of M-Sport Door Sills courtesy of Charrie to put on, so I also ordered some new clips for them. These are in NICE condition, with 3 of the 4 being nearly new looking and one having some scratching. I haven't seen too many in this nice overall condition so I definitely got lucky with this set. Thanks Charlie!

Looking forward to seeing these installed I'm glad I'm able to give you these door sills Botond and you're welcome

[az3579]

Also the genuine bmw throwout bearing is a good idea vs the LUK.

So... they both do the same thing.
Luk-supplied INA on top, Genuine BMW on bottom. They both have the same play on the top ring. When I was doing my research, some people said their genuine BMW does not have any play in the part at all. I'm wondering if this is an updated part number and it's supposed to do this now? I did notice that the Luk one has a layer of plastic fused to the metal plate whereas the genuine one only has the metal plate.



I looked up the part number on the Genuine BMW part (21 51 7 521 360) and found that the SMG and non-SMG transmissions appear use the same part.




FCP listed the OEM INA part as a SMG part and didn't list compatibility with non-SMG cars. This was an oversight on both their part and my part, because I could have just bought the OEM INA part instead of the Genuine BMW one (which is the same part number) and saved ~$60. They look exactly the same between the OE and OEM parts and share the same part number. I think I'm going to buy the OEM INA part and then compare it to the genuine one. If they're the same, I'm going to return the OE part and pocket the difference.

[az3579]

Also, it looks like almost everything on my shopping list is now in-hand, with the exception of the transmission crossmember and the stainless pivot pin, both of which are coming from ECS. It looks like FCP got one part wrong; they gave me whatever the heck this is, not a shift selector rod.





I took inventory of everything else and it looks like we're on track. I've got a date scheduled, 4/5, for the conversion, and should take about a couple of days with their workload. I will do all the coding on it, which saves them some effort.

[cakM3]

I see a ZHP part in there

[johnrando]

Following closely, thx for updates!

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[az3579]

It looks like FCP got one part wrong; they gave me whatever the heck this is, not a shift selector rod.

Upon closer inspection, it appears that it wasn't FCP's fault. It was an item they had to order and the supplier put the wrong part in a bag with the correct label on it. I didn't notice the label even said selector rod on it, so they are going to order another one and have it shipped to me. Top notch service, as always!

Going to be picking up a newish leather boot "local" to Charlie this weekend. I'll be up there helping him with his intake boots anyway, so I'll also have a relatively fresh leather shift boot for this project as well instead of my tired alcantara one.

[cakM3]

Upon closer inspection, it appears that it wasn't FCP's fault. It was an item they had to order and the supplier put the wrong part in a bag with the correct label on it. I didn't notice the label even said selector rod on it, so they are going to order another one and have it shipped to me. Top notch service, as always!

Going to be picking up a newish leather boot "local" to Charlie this weekend. I'll be up there helping him with his intake boots anyway, so I'll also have a relatively fresh leather shift boot for this project as well instead of my tired alcantara one.

Fixed


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[az3579]

Fixed


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Yeah that's what I meant. Lol
Thanks

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[az3579]

Was sitting here thinking about whether I want to bother going through the trouble of coding a used manual cluster (learning how to chip program) just to get rid of the stupid gear selector window for when the swap is done. Then I had a brainwave. I have a spare cluster and I still have the U.S. spec warning light inserts from my ZHP's cluster when I converted them to Euro spec. I disassembled the cluster and found that I can easily just swap in those inserts to perfectly cover the gear symbol indicator display, perfectly converting the cluster visually to a manual cluster once I code out the auto stuff. Easy solution!

Before:




After:





I was feeling like a real genius... up until I went online after and found that it's been done before. Sigh.
Oh well, at least it's super easy.