Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    Back in December 2016 I ordered a massive pile of parts, to take advantage of the end of year sales. I had them shipped to my friend’s place, since we were working on my car there anyways.

    From VinceSE2 on M3 Forum (for my RACP reinforcement stage 2):
    • Vincebar, Epoxy & Resin (Original design)
    • Epoxy & Resin Install Kit

    From FCP Euro:
    • Cooling system refresh
    • Belts, tensioners
    • M3 engine and trans mounts
    • E-brake rebuild kit
    • Inner + outer tie rods
    • Strut & shock mounts, reinforcement plates
    • Bilstein B4 shocks & struts
    • Oil pan gasket
    • Diff fluid
    • BMW Performance Shift Lever (correct one)

    From ECS Tuning:
    • BMW Performance Shift Lever (wrong one, so I had to return it)
    • ZHP 6-speed shift knob
    • URO Aluminium Water Pump Pulley
    • URO Aluminium Power Steering Pump Pulley
    • VANOS oil line
    • S54 oil fill cap (because I had $$$ from the refunded shift lever)

    From BavAuto:
    • Viton OFHG

    From eBay:
    • POR15 starter kit (for Vincebar)
    • Smoked front reflectors (to match the smoked side markers from the PO)

    I also bought Araldite 2014 epoxy for the Vincebar, but forgot where I got it from.

    I also paid a quick visit to Walmart to grab some car wash supplies, as my car was (obviously) in dire need of a wash:

    Much better, feels good to get all the road trip grime off:

    Installed my smoked reflectors:

    I wasn’t very happy with the fitment, as they’re flatter than they should be, so the leading and trailing edges stick up a bit. Unfortunately I cracked one of the original ones taking them out, and I did get a partial refund on them due to the bad fitment. Given how the paint on my front bumper is original at this mileage, the reflectors are far from the ugliest part in that area, so I wasn’t bothered enough to buy higher quality ones.

    I also had a flickering passenger’s xenon, which turned out to be a broken wire. Cut, soldered, & heat-shrinked the offending wire, and all was back to normal.

    I then sprung a leak at the plastic neck on the radiator for the upper rad hose. Impeccable timing too, since it happened about a week before I was planning on doing my cooling system refresh. A small dose of JB Marine Weld got me through the week (and probably would’ve lasted a whole lot longer):

    Unfortunately, I have no pics from my cooling system refresh. We did the following:

    • Radiator (Behr)
    • Water Pump (genuine BMW)
    • Thermostat (Mahle)
    • Expansion tank (Modine) & E30 1.4 Bar expansion tank cap (Behr)
    • Both the primary & AC belt tensioners (INA) and belts (Continental)
    • Expansion tank return hose (Rein)
    • Power Steering & Water Pump Pulleys (URO Aluminium)
    • OFHG (Viton, so hopefully it lasts a lot longer than stock)
    • VANOS oil line

    I didn’t intend on replacing the upper or lower rad hoses, since they were done in 2014 and still soft. To reuse them I bought o-rings and replaced those instead, which worked fine on the lower rad hose, but still leaked on the upper rad hose. So I just bought another upper rad hose anyways and left the lower one.

    I then started stripping the rear end of the interior, in preparation for the Vincebar.
    Crumbling sound deadening:

    Score! Found some spare change under the rear seats:

    I’ve no idea why I bagged the sound deadening (that I was tossing) so nicely:

    I had a bunch of packing supplies leftover from all the parts I bought. For some reason, instead of removing the rear seat belt receivers, I left them in and wrapped them in bubble wrap to prevent them from rattling around:

    My friend and I planned to do the Vincebar on a 3-day long weekend in mid-June (I forget what long weekend it was for) because we weren’t sure how long the whole job would take. So on Friday, June 16th after work, I pulled into his garage and put my car up on jackstands for the next 3 days.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Austin TX
    Lots of good updates here. This is the first time I hear BMW approves to repair rust.
    2005 IR / black / 6MT
    153,000 miles

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    Quote Originally Posted by fredo View Post
    Lots of good updates here. This is the first time I hear BMW approves to repair rust.
    Yeah, I was quite surprised - apparently back then, people have had fairly good luck with BMW Canada and the 12-year warranty. Technically it's only for perforation, but they still went ahead with repairs on cars anyways . But nowadays it seems they're really tightening up restrictions, and rejecting claims as you're technically supposed to have an inspection at the dealer once in a while. Regardless I was quite ecstatic about having both rockers done.

    So we put the car in the air, and the first thing I did was look at all the work the shop did. Considering the price, I couldn’t complain about the quality – the underbody isn’t colour-matched but the welds looked fine and was properly protected from corrosion. The poly subframe and RTAB bushings were also installed properly, with lubrication.

    However, I paid for OEM diff bushings to be installed, and the bushings looked… not new. The rear bushing was fine, but the steel outer sleeve was rusted. Furthermore, the front two bushings had significant cracks:

    I was quite surprised that they weren’t replaced. I had a pretty in-depth discussion with the shop owner, and he knew I normally did all my own work. I emailed him about it, with no response. I sent a few more emails and called him a few times, and was eventually able to get a hold of him, and he said they somehow forgot to do it. After a bit more chasing, I ended up getting 1/3rd back of what I paid him for the entire job in the first place. It definitely wasn’t a pleasant experience, but I’m just glad not to have gotten screwed over – in fact, I ended up buying the bushings on my own and replacing them myself later on.

    In the process of dropping the rear subframe one of the handbrake cables got twisted. I suspect the shop installed the nuts with a gun and overtightened or cross threaded it, so I added a new set of cables to my list of new parts to buy:

    Rear subframe dropped:

    Also took some stuff out of the interior, as we needed the space and things were going to get very messy:

    Then I drilled the pilot hole for the front mounts from the bottom, poking through the top-most layer of the floor. Then used a holesaw from the top-side to allow access to the internal MIG welds (which weren’t cracked) at the top of the threaded insert for the front subframe studs:

    Then started cutting the top-most layer of the rear section:

    Had to do a couple of minor trims, before a test-fit of the bar:

    All the grinding and cutting sure makes everything in the garage dirty:

    Started removing paint on the areas that will be epoxied, and applied POR15 Metal Prep to prevent rust:

    Then, epoxied and rivetted everything in place:

    It ain’t pretty, but I covered all the exposed seams and remaining exposed metal with POR15:

    Also got my new rear shocks, RSMs, and reinforcement plates in during reinstallation:

    Managed to button up the car the last night of the weekend, and decided to fabricate the cover and clean up the car the next weekend. Turned out that pre-cut steel plate that was sent with the kit was too small, since I guess I cut the rear top-layer too big:

    So I made a CAD template, bought some sheet stock, and re-made it:

    Then rivetted the whole lot together and seam-sealed the seams:

    Then POR15 all exposed metal and seam sealer. Again, it ain’t pretty, but it’s not something I look at every day:

    If I could go back and do it again, I’d take a lot more time protecting the interior. I had a few cheap towels laid out, but clearly they weren’t enough. It took me forever to clean the carpets, and I now have permanent craters in the headliner and pitting on the interior of my windshield from the sparks:

    Oh well, at least I shouldn’t have to worry about my RACP ever again.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Lexington, KY
    Dang that's a huge amount of work! Car looks great and has plenty of strength all around it seems'
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet][IMG]

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    Quote Originally Posted by Oli77 View Post
    Dang that's a huge amount of work! Car looks great and has plenty of strength all around it seems'
    Yeah, between the replaced rocker panels and the 2-stage RACP reinforcement, I think this one is here to stay. I take good care of my car but have no hesitations in beating the piss out of it - by my best guess, I've dropped the (original) clutch launching it 40-50 times so far, when I autox.

    With the RACP locked down, I started to enjoy the back roads around the area (headed to Alice’s quite a few times with friends and co-workers, drove around La Honda/Skyline/Page Mill). I also started autox’ing with BMW CCA Golden Gate Chapter and Golden Gate Lotus Club. Funnily enough, this was the first time I was autox’ing my car, but I had been autox’ing with my Formula SAE team for two years at that point. I still remember the conversation I had with after my first run with my friend (who is also an instructor with BMW):

    Friend: “Oh, that really wasn’t bad for your first run! How did it feel?”
    Me: “Not bad, but it’s pretty… numb? And really, really boaty”
    Friend: “Eh, this is fairly average and a decent car to start with. That Cadillac over there is boaty. Also, you’re turning in waaaaay too late”
    Me: “Yeah, I’m used to the FSAE car where you turn and it just goes right away”

    Regardless, it was still tons of fun and I was now hooked.

    Me being a noob and not putting the tape on my window:

    Well, back to never-ending car work. I had a leaky oil pan, so I purchased a Harbour Freight engine support brace (man, I’m so jealous of how cheap the tools are!) and got to work replacing the oil pan gasket (Victor Reinz). Once again, “while we’re in there”, I did the following as well:

    • M3 engine and trans mounts (Rein)
    • Front struts (Bilstein B4), strut mounts (Lemforder), reinforcement plates (genuine BMW)
    • Inner + outer tie rods (Lemforder)
    • Steering Guibo (genuine BMW)

    I was honestly appalled at the quality of the casting for the oil pan. Tons of little burrs that ripped the shop towel I used to clean it. I had first-hand experience with quality cast aluminium gearbox casings at my co-op, and they were as smooth as a baby’s bottom.

    I also found these little guys, and was quite concerned. However after getting some opinions it’s very likely a brittle piece of old valve cover gasket:

    Man, I hate rust. To get the tie rod end off the upright, I used a pickle fork and had to hammer for half an hour before that sucker came out.

    I also bought new rims. As much as I like the look of style 135s, I was looking to downsize to a square 17” setup. Lower unsprung mass, less understeer, cheaper tires, and the ability to rotate your tires are a few reasons why I wanted to do so. I had a corporate discount with Tire Rack, so got a set of 17 x 8.5” TR Motorsport C2, wrapped in 245/40/17 Continental ExtremeContact Sport. Although these are cheap rims, I had read multiple reviews from guys who had abused them, and they are JWL certified. Also, call me a basic b1tch, but I love the look of TE37s, and wanted to bring a bit of my love for the JDM scene to my car.

    I put a couple coats of Poorboy’s Wheel Sealant and will be annually recoating them to minimize buildup of brake dust, and maintain ease of cleaning.

    I had also ordered a stud kit from ECS Tuning, and was holding off on mounting my new wheels until those were on the car. This turned out to be a lucky decision, as 5 days later this happened:

    I was lucky to have avoided a front-end collision that could have totalled my car, but he still tagged me in the left rear quarter panel. We pulled over, 3 Hispanic dudes got out of the car, and none of them spoke English. How did I know? When he was trying to give me his insurance papers, he instead gave me his court order for DUI.

    Look at it on the bright side: my car was already tainted from the accident prior to this one, so now both quarter panels are jacked up (yay!):

    The other side, that swung into the shoulder:

    I brought the car to a body shop on recommendation of one of the guys on the ZHP facebook group, and they had lots of good reviews. He came out with an estimate for repairs, but before repairs could commence, I had to deal with the aftermath of the accident. It was clearly not my fault, but this guy used the shittiest insurance company possible. They wanted to total my car like the last accident, and were evaluating my car at a retardedly low number without room to budge. Whenever I tried to prove to them that my car should have higher value given it’s a ZHP and is in exceptional condition, they were complete assholes over the phone. So I called up my own insurance, who immediately gave clearance for repairs, and would go after the other company for the bill. Haha, suck it!

    With respect to attention to detail, this body shop was far better than the last one, and other things on my car were inadvertently repaired as well. Some of the fasteners and plastic push pins for the rear splash guard were missing, which were replaced. The battery and storage trays on the sides of the trunk were also missing push pins, and new ones were there when I picked the car up. I noticed a bit of haziness on the paint, and the guy whipped out the DA and polish out on the spot. All of this makes sense, since he wore an Obsessed Garage T-Shirt when picked my car up.

    In addition to the repairs with the quarter panel, other things were done as well:

    • New left tail light (I had noticed faint water spotting inside the lense, but didn’t think much of it)
    • Rear bumper repaired and resprayed (had minor gouges from PO parallel parking in city, so now it’s mint)
    • Both rear style 135 rims were reconditioned (left side had minor scrapes, right side had “chips” from my drifting into the shoulder)
    • Replaced driver’s door seal (I’d noticed it had a tear after repairs, so they immediately ordered a new one no questions asked). This is something I’m pretty happy about, since the felt liners on both seals were missing since I bought the car. At some point the PO tried re-gluing them on, but failed. So there were nasty brown stains of dried glue on them

    Of course, having an accident still sucks. But I was glad to have had a few things on my car repaired, all gratis.


    After (looking back at this pic, I’ll have to re-seat the door seal, as the gap in the felt is shifted such that part of the felt liner goes under the interior trim, pushing it up):

    Alas, no body shop is perfect… 2 years later I found minor rust on the quarter panel, right where it interfaces with the rear bumper. I’m guessing the body shop in Windsor was a lot more diligent with making sure the paint extended all the way to where the quarter panel stops, and the inner wheel arch began, to prevent rust from forming in Canadian winters. It was no big deal, since it was in an area that you cannot see, and had not spread to the outside surface of the quarter panel. The rust was so minor that I sanded it down, POR-15’d it, and painted over it with touch-up paint two years later.
    Last edited by; 05-12-2020 at 09:20 AM.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    As I had mentioned with the RACP stage 1 reinforcement, the shop “forgot” to install new OEM diff bushings, and had given a partial refund for not doing so. I had a decent amount of car work done, but still had a few remaining items to do, including those bushings.

    I did a bit of reading online and found that soft durometer poly diff bushings had negligible increases in NVH. Seeing that ECS’s bushings were 88A, I decided to go ahead with those. So for the umpteenth time, I dropped my exhaust and driveshaft and set to work:

    Original cracked bushing:

    One of my co-workers was a tech at BMW, so one of his old colleagues was kind enough to let me borrow the proper tools to replace all 3 bushings. The job would’ve definitely taken significantly longer without these – the rear bushing took quite a bit of force to remove even with the tool, and there was a loud bang when the bushing can un-seized itself from the sleeve in the rear subframe.

    I drove around with the bushings installed and had a noticeable clunk. Turns out I put the bushing in backwards, d’oh! Re-removed everything again, flipped the bushing, then re-installed in a couple hours. Still didn’t solve my clunk, I’m not actually sure what solved it but it was gone after all my car work in California was done.

    I have to say – I do not recommend ECS Tuning bushings. NVH is fine, but fitment was not. Perhaps I got one from a bad batch because I didn’t read any bad reviews, but the stepped head of the front bushings were too thick, which pushed the bolt head onto the aluminium driveshaft protector/brace thingy (?). This transmitted fairly loud scraping sounds to the cabin, and I thought something was seriously wrong. Unfortunately I don’t have pics of the actual problem, just the fix:

    Basically I hammered in a flathead to create a gap, in which I squeezed some seam sealer, which was leftover from the Vincebar install kit. This did the trick, as the scraping noises were completely gone. Downside is that if I ever have to remove that brace, I have to redo that procedure, which takes a full night to properly cure (ask me how I know).

    At the same time, I replaced all the shifter bushings, swapped in a BMW Performance short shift lever, and installed a new shifter shaft seal:

    Which was then topped off with a new 6-speed ZHP shift knob to complete the job:

    Man, the difference with the shifter was night and day, as my bushings were original at 322,000 KM. I also installed the ECS Tuning stud kit, then fitted my new rims, just in time for the next autox event.

    So the funny story about the below pic is that I still wanted to go to the autox event, but my car was still at the body shop. One of my friends drives his parent’s Prius as a daily, and we went for a small romp on the backroads. My, oh my… I understand why that car makes people drive so slowly! For shits and gigs, we decided to try autox’ing it. However I got my car back from the body shop a couple days before the autox. My friend has since been autox’ing his Prius on the regular.

    One of our other friends is an amateur photographer, and he also came by. So at least I have some pretty decent pics of my car in action:

    LOL stock suspension doing what it does best:

    Unfortunately it was almost time to drive back home. But not before my style 135s turned from this:

    To this:

    Probably much easier to haul back to Canada, given the limited space in my car.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    Well, as it was now time to leave the SF Bay Area, I gave my car one last detail before setting off. This is probably one of my favourite pictures of my car:

    Filled to the brim:

    Which made me hellaflush in the rear:

    It was right at the end of August, and there was quite the heat wave (it peaked at 40 degrees during the drive!):

    The first few casualties of the trip:

    A quick jaunt later, I was at the Canadian border into BC:

    Stayed with some relatives for a couple of days, then continued into the interior. That year was Canada’s 150th birthday and to celebrate, Park’s Canada gave out free passes to all national parks. Boy oh boy, I definitely took advantage of that:

    Jasper National Park:

    Maaaaan… the winding one-lane road highways were a dream to drive on!

    Probably the most scenic McD’s drive-thru in the background:

    Stayed another couple days in Banff/Canmore, then continued through to Edmonton. Lots of casualties:

    At that point I realized my rims were in dire need of a clean:

    Luckily, I had my uncle in Edmonton, so I was able to wash my car there. Unfortunately, there were only 2 buckets, so I decided to just wash the body to get the bugs off, and left the rims filthy:

    Unfortunately, the only notable event between Edmonton and Toronto was me crossing 330,330 KM. If any of you have made that drive… boy is it boring!

    Nevertheless, filthy again but back home:

    The next day, I immediately set out to work. Haha such contrast:

    My wheel bucket was actually filled with tea once I was all done:

    Cleaned under the door sills as well (which have broken clips, and are unfortunately really loose):

    Before putting the sill back on I put some silicone paste where all the holes were – I’m guessing the body shop that did the repairs in Windsor 2 years prior put that grease there for rustproofing.

    Me being the weird person I am, and storing my car when there’s still 2 months of good weather left:

    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Southern California
    Wow, lots going on, good updates.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"

    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    Wow, lots going on, good updates.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
    Thanks! Majority of the car work was definitely done at that point though, and we're quickly catching up to the present.

    This one is probably going to be the shortest update ever. I have folders for media separated by year, and 2018 marked the year where I only took 5 pics of my car:

    In the last post, I put my car to storage right after my road trip back from the SF Bay Area in September 2017, and didn’t take it out of storage until…………………………….. April 2019. It was due to a combination of things – just being on work terms and not requiring a car at the very start and end of 2018 (and being winter as well), and being in school but focusing on FSAE during the summer.

    So on the upside… for anyone needing some tips on extremely long-term storage, let me know.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    That last post wasn't a real update, so I definitely have that excuse to post another one right after

    Since my car was stored so long, at this point we zoom forward to just about a year ago, in April 2019. I was about to graduate from undergrad, and decided to have my car out for the upcoming summer. Perhaps I’ll give a bit of a summary of my storage procedure:

    • Full exterior wash, re-coat the car with paint sealant
    • Vacuum + shampoo of floor mats, vacuum of carpets (not that there is much to do, given the awesome floor mats), general wipe down of all plastic surfaces with interior cleaner, leather clean + condition steering wheel & shift knob, leather clean + condition seats
    • Drive to gas station 2 minutes away, brim the tank. This also gets rid of the rust on the rotors from the wash
    • Let the car get up to operating temp. While the car is idling, add fuel stabilizer, and pump the tires up to ~50 psi to avoid flat-spotting
    • Turn the car off for the final time. Lock the car with the trunk open, disconnect battery to prevent a drain on the system, and close the trunk
    • Plug the exhaust tips with plastic bags, then put a car cover over it

    Then, when I take the car back out from storage, removal is basically the reverse of installation, aside from getting the interior dirty, and extracting fuel + fuel stabilizer from the tank. But I also do an oil change on the spot, as I’d rather not run on oil that has been sitting around for a while:

    I’m not sure if the BMW Performance Exhaust has exhaust packing or not, but when I pulled the plastic bags out this time, some fibreglass bits came out. Might be a placebo effect, but I feel like the car was ever so slightly louder after this happened. Oh well, the car is a tad quiet anyways!

    Beading for dayzzzzzzzzzzzzz:

    At this point it was right before my last FSAE competition in May, so we were testing out the car every chance we could get:

    Unfortunately the front wing broke, so I tried stuffing it in my car to get back to campus. It was juuuuuust big enough to not make the squeeze in, so it was stuffed in someone else’s car after I snapped this pic:

    More late-night testing on-campus. Frankly I’m surprised the school gave us permission to do so – I’m sure the students in nearby residences weren’t too happy. But we really needed to pile miles on the car, so I wasn’t complaining:

    Then, we packed up and made the quick jaunt over to Michigan International Speedway:

    Unrelated, but a couple bonus pics from comp of me doing my thing. I couldn’t resist posting these because I really miss FSAE:

    This was a result of “just follow the GPS”. Apparently, the fastest way back into Canada included taking a ferry. Here is where I was definitely glad to be at stock ride height. The ramp was quite steep, so I’m fairly certain I would’ve scraped with even a mild drop.

    Got home and gave the car another good clean:

    This also marks the first time I cleaned the neglected exhaust tips, ever since I got the car. I know, I know… I maintain the tips on a regular basis nowadays. It’s still not quite up to snuff, but I think I’d need to go out and buy one of those foam/brush drill attachments to get the really stubborn carbon deposits off. It’d take hours of me sitting on my ass, doing it by hand:

    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

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