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Thread: Turning heater on exploded my cooling system

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    Glad that worked out.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
    Thanks! Hopefully the cooling system lasts another 30k miles, then I'll go and do everything. Now's an inconvenient time.

    Quote Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
    !0 years is a good lifespan for a hose, POS or otherwise!
    Yeah, it's a PoS b/c it was a PITA to install and uninstall. It used plastic compression rather than an o-ring. I remember how awful it was at the time. The new one has an o-ring making life easy.
    Last edited by Fried_Chicken; 10-29-2020 at 10:57 AM.

  2. #12
    Car is leaking... I'm just going to do the whole cooling system. I'm not going to play cat and mouse with this.

  3. #13
    Just finished the whole cooling system... 3 days straight of work, although it took a bit to get my groove on.

    Removed the intake manifold, replaced the solid cooling lines, replaced the engine temperature, oil pressure, and coolant temperature sensors, water pump, radiator, expansion tank, radiator hoses and the radiator. Cleaned the throttle body and got new gaskets, as well as all the oil separator hoses. Admittedly, the intake and breather hoses were quite clean. Left the heater corse hose because it is out of RUBBER AND DOESN'T GET BRITTLE AND BREAK WHAT A CONCEPT BMW TAKE NOTE. Also did the spark plugs and coils, and I also wrapped the little electric lines w/new plastic coverings where it got brittle and turned to fuzz.

    I'm still not sure how to refill/bleed the cooling system on these, but starting the engine, letting it idle, and continually topping off the expansion tank did the trick. Once it stopped sucking coolant, I topped it off, revved it, let it sink; rinse + repeat. Obviously the heater was running to get all the shit into the heater core. I also did the oil filter housing gasket, and did an oil change before starting the engine to drain any gritty shit that might have dropped into the oil system before it can cause damage somewhere. Basically repeated what I did 7 years ago. It was surreal going back in and thinking about what naÔve hands did all this work the first time. I also pressure tested the system, and it held 10 psi for a solid 5 minutes.

    While I had the alternator out, I checked the brushes and they're well worn. I tried two voltage regulators and neither were the right part. I have pictures, so now I'm on the hunt for the appropriate one. I don't want to buy a new alternator if I don't need to.

    All in all, I've developed a newfound hatred for plastic. Plastic can die in a fire, except then it'll give you cancer. My friend has a nissan 350z, and it's held together by gum, spit, zip-ties, and gypsy magic. He also feeds it the shittiest wal-mart fluids money can buy. Even still HE doesn't have to dismantle half his engine every 7 years. Whatever, in the end he drives a nissan, while I drive a BMW.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Irvine, CA
    Nice work, glad you got that leak taken care of and those parts replaced.

    Maybe you can try this place for alternator parts: Maniac Electric Motors

    Disclaimer: I've never used them before, just passing along a referral.

  5. #15
    I found the appropriate voltage regulator part. $60 should keep my alternator running for another 160k miles, hopefully.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Irvine, CA
    Nice. Hope it fixes it. Keep us posted. Where'd you end up sourcing the voltage regulator from?

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    Nice. Hope it fixes it. Keep us posted. Where'd you end up sourcing the voltage regulator from?
    FCP Euro carries them. I suspect someone swapped out the connector on mine (car side), because I'd prior ordered one specific for the vehicle and it was the incorrect one.

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