Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by usinjin View Post
    Wishful thinking?? Not exactly sure where you got that. These are my reasonings I’ve come to after discussing issues with my mechanic and internet research. Of course I could be wrong, which is another story altogether. If anyone can correct anything I’m coming up with, that would be appreciated, as it’ll help me learn and better understand.

    No aftermarket intakes/boots/filters of any kind.

    130F seemed more or less normal to me, after reading comments of ~150F AIT on similarly specced e46 models across various forums, and reassurances that that range was probably okay. Especially after running the car hard and then allowing it to idle again, perhaps heat-soak played a part. Perhaps the tune it’s running plays a role.

    Again, I could definitely be wrong.
    Wishful thinking being afraid to remove the intake manifold again, but sorry, I was being insensitive.

    131F seems high, but if others are reporting it, I could believe it. It would cause wonky idling. How bad is this wonky idling exactly?
    Have you let your car do a lot of idling? I think after an adaptations reset the car needs a while to get itself in shape, in all different running conditions. Mine didn't idle nicely for a bit after doing all the work.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fried_Chicken View Post
    Wishful thinking being afraid to remove the intake manifold again, but sorry, I was being insensitive.

    131F seems high, but if others are reporting it, I could believe it. It would cause wonky idling. How bad is this wonky idling exactly?
    Have you let your car do a lot of idling? I think after an adaptations reset the car needs a while to get itself in shape, in all different running conditions. Mine didn't idle nicely for a bit after doing all the work.
    That’s my bad, I made a bit of a dumb joke. If the sensor was indeed bad, I’d happily pull the intake again. I feel like a pro by now!

    It may just need more time, I agree there. It’s been about 600 miles since I rest the adaptations, driven slow, moderate, WOT and idled (probably idled for 3-4 hours since then).

    It’s not terrible idling—it’s more like inconsistently-okay idling. Sometimes it’s okay, not terribly smooth (but then again it is 16 years old)...but other times it’s fairly rough. Like, the car shakes a bit and the tach bounces. This usually happens after I’ve been driving and then come to a stop. The idle drops to about 500 revs and stutters somewhat.
    2005 Jet Black ZHP Sedan "Adriana" || TunedByDaniel || BMW Alarm + Fuel Lock || ORION V4s || Eagle Eyes || 435i Coupe Sport Seats || Perforated Leather X5 M-Sport Wheel || FLOW Designs Lip

  3. #33
    That's plenty to reset the adaptations. Do you have the OEM air intake installed? After running and coming to a stop, hot air could cause issues.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fried_Chicken View Post
    That's plenty to reset the adaptations. Do you have the OEM air intake installed? After running and coming to a stop, hot air could cause issues.
    The stock intake is pretty good, I'm doubting it's the thing causing a poor idle.
    2005 Jet Black ZHP Sedan "Adriana" || TunedByDaniel || BMW Alarm + Fuel Lock || ORION V4s || Eagle Eyes || 435i Coupe Sport Seats || Perforated Leather X5 M-Sport Wheel || FLOW Designs Lip

  5. #35
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    Are the short term fuel trims always that far apart? Both banks should be closer together but your bank 1 is not close to bank 2. The dme is pulling alot of fuel from bank 1.

    Keep in mind that long term fuel trims are driven by short term trims. They also should be measured at idle, 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm.

    Also your idle value is out of spec. Target range is 650 rpm.

    At the mileage your car is at I would replace the primary oxygen sensors ( they are 100k mileage maintenance item ).

    Also disconnect the maf sensor and see what your scanner puts out and how the car runs. My hunch is that your maf is also kaput.



    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vas View Post
    Are the short term fuel trims always that far apart? Both banks should be closer together but your bank 1 is not close to bank 2. The dme is pulling alot of fuel from bank 1.

    Keep in mind that long term fuel trims are driven by short term trims. They also should be measured at idle, 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm.

    Also your idle value is out of spec. Target range is 650 rpm.

    At the mileage your car is at I would replace the primary oxygen sensors ( they are 100k mileage maintenance item ).

    Also disconnect the maf sensor and see what your scanner puts out and how the car runs. My hunch is that your maf is also kaput.



    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    The STFTs are not consistent with each other. I might have an exhaust leak as well still.

    The idle is also not consistent. It will be as high as 800 or as low as 500.

    Will also test MAF as requested, results soon.
    2005 Jet Black ZHP Sedan "Adriana" || TunedByDaniel || BMW Alarm + Fuel Lock || ORION V4s || Eagle Eyes || 435i Coupe Sport Seats || Perforated Leather X5 M-Sport Wheel || FLOW Designs Lip

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by usinjin View Post
    The stock intake is pretty good, I'm doubting it's the thing causing a poor idle.
    It is. People that install aftermarket intakes are idiots - they suck warm air from the engine compartment.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by usinjin View Post
    The STFTs are not consistent with each other. I might have an exhaust leak as well still.

    The idle is also not consistent. It will be as high as 800 or as low as 500.

    Will also test MAF as requested, results soon.
    The numbers should be no greater then 10% and the total fuel trim numbers should be no more then 10% when they are added. The fuel trims should be monitored at idle, 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm. The image attached is at 2500 rpm

    If the numbers are greater then 10% in the positive or negative direction, the DME is compensating for more then just normal wear and tear on the engine.

    Also something to consider is that when the numbers reach 25% in either direction the check engine light will come on for either system too lean or rich.

    After replacing the primary o2 sensors and a new maf car is running great.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  9. #39
    Join Date
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    Unplugging the MAF, the engine doesn’t run that much rougher, only slightly more so.

    MAF reinstalled, at 2500 rpm, the fuel trims are as follows:

    STFT bank 1: -7.03%
    LTFT bank 1: 5.47%

    STFT bank 2: -6.25%
    LTFT bank 2: 5.47%

    I have questions as to “why”, but I’m in agreement that a new MAF + O2s are in order. I’m not sure why I thought MAFs were super expensive; they’re actually not as bad as I was thinking.

    Edit: Is there a quality difference between the Bremi and the VDO branded MAFs?
    Last edited by usinjin; 11-24-2020 at 06:15 PM.
    2005 Jet Black ZHP Sedan "Adriana" || TunedByDaniel || BMW Alarm + Fuel Lock || ORION V4s || Eagle Eyes || 435i Coupe Sport Seats || Perforated Leather X5 M-Sport Wheel || FLOW Designs Lip

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by usinjin View Post
    Unplugging the MAF, the engine doesn’t run that much rougher, only slightly more so.

    MAF reinstalled, at 2500 rpm, the fuel trims are as follows:

    STFT bank 1: -7.03%
    LTFT bank 1: 5.47%

    STFT bank 2: -6.25%
    LTFT bank 2: 5.47%

    I have questions as to “why”, but I’m in agreement that a new MAF + O2s are in order. I’m not sure why I thought MAFs were super expensive; they’re actually not as bad as I was thinking.

    Edit: Is there a quality difference between the Bremi and the VDO branded MAFs?
    Both are German. I would caution against throwing money at problems. If you're looking to do O2 sensors and want to save money, I'd recommend getting these "used" from the Amazon Warehouse for $25 each.

    I installed 8 of them on two cars and saved a fortune.
    Last edited by Fried_Chicken; 11-25-2020 at 08:42 AM.

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