Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,920
    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    I do have a question though, for those who learned manual after automatic, when did it click for you and become 'fun'? I just got the car and have maybe driven it a dozen times, but hill starts and starting from first/going slow still feel awkward, I still have to look down sometimes to know what gear I'm in and shifting smoothly/rev matching is pretty difficult. It just sort of feels like work and like I don't know how to drive haha. Especially in NJ traffic where everyone is mashing the gas in their 300+ HP SUVs, and they all want to slam their brakes and ride your bumper in stop-and-go traffic. I would love to get to the point where I'm rev matching every downshift and can pull away from first quickly, but driving manual just sort of gives me anxiety.
    I will mirror everyone and say it comes with time. You're probably better off than where I started. I stalled out over and over in a parking lot. I think the problem was from just getting used to using my left leg to provide input.

    A dozen drives is still pretty fresh, so things will be a bit awkward. But focus on the basics first and then you can do rev-matching. Definitely get a feel for starting in 1st and where each gear is. I think the easiest rev-match to start with is the fourth to third gear shift when coming to a stoplight or similar situation, as you just have to move the knob forward and only have to increase the revs a small bit at the usual speeds.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    69
    Thank you all for the responses! What a great community

    Seems like the common response is to just give it some more time. I'm still getting used to the bite point everyday, feels like it's right at the top of the pedal which makes it a little less forgiving to me. I did order and install the bimmerworld "puck" clutch stop and it made quite a difference though, even screwed in at it's lowest position. I have taken her out a few times and I am already getting more used to finding the gears and being quicker with the shifts, I'm not letting the revs drop much at all for upshifts. Also learned to hold the bite point a little for downshifts to let the engine speed up so the shift is smoother. Have to experiment with the seating position because my leg is sort of in the air when at the bite point. But I think with time I really will get it. I revved it to 6k and did a quick 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift and I said "okay now that's pretty fun" lol. I tend to creep with just the clutch first without using gas but I'm starting to add more gas now as well. Pulling into my garage slowly is still a little nerve racking since it has a small ramp and I'm trying not to go in with too much speed.

    I also did a couple of 6 > 5 rev matches on the freeway, didn't get them perfect but I could definitely feel that the clutch barely had to do any work to complete the downshift.


    I'm filling up my FCP Euro cart with some parts now to do some maintenance, have been watching the popular stuff on youtube (ShoplifeTV, 50sKid). So far did an oil change, new battery, brake fluid, straightened my front 2 rims and purge valve for CEL.

    Here is a list of the things I'm thinking of doing now:

    Steering guibo/coupler (I have a ton of play in the steering wheel on center, like 1.5 inches either side, get a ton of bump steer)
    Window regulators (My passenger rear down is stuck down after the guy at the inspection station rolled it down for some reason)
    cabin/intake air filters (both filthy)
    New tires (current ones are from 2013, and have cracks on the inside, thinking of going with the Pilot Sport AS4 or DWS06+)
    Manual Transmission Fluid
    Differential Fluid
    Power Steering Fluid (May need new cap and gasket as well, has some gunk on top)


    Unfortunately I do not know if the cooling system was done, so I think I may have to do that soon. Oil filter housing gasket is also leaking oil so need to do that as well, might as well do with cooling system. There looks to be some fraying on the drive belts so have to do those soon also, should I do the pulleys as well? I have no maintenance records on this car unfortunately so I'm kind of just guessing.

    Two other issues I'm having:

    Rear windshield is very blurry/murky looking. Almost as if there is a film on it that has melted. Visibility is quite poor. Any idea what this is?
    Passenger headlight has condensation in the turn signal, do I just take it apart and clean it, and perhaps replace the headlight gasket?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,244
    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    Seems like the common response is to just give it some more time. I'm still getting used to the bite point everyday, feels like it's right at the top of the pedal which makes it a little less forgiving to me. I did order and install the bimmerworld "puck" clutch stop and it made quite a difference though, even screwed in at it's lowest position. I have taken her out a few times and I am already getting more used to finding the gears and being quicker with the shifts, I'm not letting the revs drop much at all for upshifts. Also learned to hold the bite point a little for downshifts to let the engine speed up so the shift is smoother. Have to experiment with the seating position because my leg is sort of in the air when at the bite point. But I think with time I really will get it. I revved it to 6k and did a quick 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift and I said "okay now that's pretty fun" lol. I tend to creep with just the clutch first without using gas but I'm starting to add more gas now as well. Pulling into my garage slowly is still a little nerve racking since it has a small ramp and I'm trying not to go in with too much speed.

    I also did a couple of 6 > 5 rev matches on the freeway, didn't get them perfect but I could definitely feel that the clutch barely had to do any work to complete the downshift.
    Yeah, the clutch engages high on the pedal travel. You really could be quick and just kind of stab it, but I enjoy the full pedal travel to shift. This is mainly because our engine doesn't rev very quickly, so some delay is necessary to let the revs drop and smoothly shift, and doing something during that delay (full in-out engagement of the clutch pedal) helps with timing for me.

    Holding the engagement point with the clutch pedal on downshifts will change when you become more familiar with rev-matching and some good ol' heel and toe. I forced myself to heel-and-toe on every downshift, even when just puttering around and it helped me learn the engine pretty well. I also fuck around with left foot braking so maybe don't listen to me.

    And yeah, when you let the car stretch its legs all the way up to 6800 RPMs, it's where the fun is.

    Sounds like you're on your way to making it second nature and having fun with the car itself.

    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    I'm filling up my FCP Euro cart with some parts now to do some maintenance, have been watching the popular stuff on youtube (ShoplifeTV, 50sKid). So far did an oil change, new battery, brake fluid, straightened my front 2 rims and purge valve for CEL.

    Here is a list of the things I'm thinking of doing now:

    Steering guibo/coupler (I have a ton of play in the steering wheel on center, like 1.5 inches either side, get a ton of bump steer)
    Window regulators (My passenger rear down is stuck down after the guy at the inspection station rolled it down for some reason)
    cabin/intake air filters (both filthy)
    New tires (current ones are from 2013, and have cracks on the inside, thinking of going with the Pilot Sport AS4 or DWS06+)
    Manual Transmission Fluid
    Differential Fluid
    Power Steering Fluid (May need new cap and gasket as well, has some gunk on top)


    Unfortunately I do not know if the cooling system was done, so I think I may have to do that soon. Oil filter housing gasket is also leaking oil so need to do that as well, might as well do with cooling system. There looks to be some fraying on the drive belts so have to do those soon also, should I do the pulleys as well? I have no maintenance records on this car unfortunately so I'm kind of just guessing.

    Two other issues I'm having:

    Rear windshield is very blurry/murky looking. Almost as if there is a film on it that has melted. Visibility is quite poor. Any idea what this is?
    Passenger headlight has condensation in the turn signal, do I just take it apart and clean it, and perhaps replace the headlight gasket?
    Sounds like you've done some good maintenance and have appropriate stuff planned.

    I would do the cooling system if the parts look all BMW and old (kind of tough to tell). It's really not bad if you have the proper tools, time, and space.

    The power steering reservoir has a release/leak area so sometimes it can leak and that's normal.

    Definitely do the pulleys as well while you're in there. They're surprisingly cheap, and very easy to do with everything off.

    Does the rear windshield have a tint on it of some sort? The glass itself shouldn't warp or be blurry on its own.

    The passenger headlight probably has a worn gasket. Luckily for you, sedans are easy to replace the lens and the gasket for not too much money.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    7,606
    My 2009 335i had very few service recs. I stopped by a shop mentioned in the carfax report and they printed some recs for me. Maybe you can do the same ? It's worth to try. Those receipts were around $4,000 so I was happy to get them.

    I needed to replace both front turn signals because water was getting inside. Sounds like you have the same issue. These are the PNs for both turn signals:

    63-13-7-165-859 Left directional indicator
    63-13-7-165-860 Right directional indicator

    Maybe you can ask at a tint shop if they can clean the rear windshield for you.
    2005 IR / black / 6MT
    157,000 miles

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    Welcome and congrats on the car.

    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    Welcome.

    Honestly, I thought it was easy to pick up. For me, it didn't become fun until I started trying out various things. I started out just getting the basics down so didn't rev-match or anything like that until after. It was too much to juggle all at once. Once you get used to just doing smooth upshifts, then start playing around with the rest of the stuff and that becomes fun. Mainly cause you're not too focused on the easy stuff.

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