Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    69
    Quote Originally Posted by MINIz guy View Post
    Nice progress! I'm about 30 minutes away in Mountain Lakes, NJ, fixing up my own ZHP. Next up for me is replacing the oil pan gasket, securing the oil pump nut and welding in front subframe reinforcements!
    If youre down for it I can offer a helping hand every once and awhile, I think itll help me learn. I also see you did your rear subframe/diff bushings. Mine are cracked so I definitely have to do it but looks like kind of a hard job, would love some tips there.




    Update this week:
    Small vacuum leak code went away, was able to pass NJ inspection, dont have to deal with that for 2 more years.

    Did the manual trans and diff fluid earlier today. New to this home mechanic stuff so took longer than I thought. Getting used to jacking up the car in my small garage, and other small stuff like:

    -making sure I have all the required tools next to me once I get under the car
    -learning how to deal with stuck bolts, my diff fill plug was stuck, took me forever but eventually got it by tightening and loosening slightly over and over again to release the rust, then it popped right out. Felt so good lol
    -overtightening is definitely a thing, I stripped a brand new trans drain plug by overtightening. Have to let go of the tighter is better mindset that I had before
    -having rags handy to deal with oil

    Getting in and out from under the car sucks, I didnt get a crawler because Im concerned of it moving around while under the car and me bumping into stuff, i'll get used to it.

    Gear oil smells like complete dogshit, I can still remember the smell.

    Drove around today with the new trans fluid, shifting felt a bit easier but not as big of a difference as I thought. And old oil was pretty dark. Maybe need to break it in a little more. Second gear still feels a little stiff but I think that is common on the e46.

    More problems discovered on the car this week:

    -Tank doesnt seem to fill above half. Checked the OBC settings for the fuel tank and the left tank either shows as 00 or --. Not sure if its the fuel pump, or driver side sender. I have a new fuel pump and fuel filter ready to go, sender should arrive early this week.
    - Knocking sounds under the car, forgot to check but it's probably sway bar links or control arm stuff.

    Will probably do fuel pump and fuel filter tomorrow but I didnt get any new vacuum line, and I dont know what the right size is. Will try to find the answer online today. Will likely save the cooling system for the weekend after unless I think I can tackle it during the week.


    Still deciding whether or not do the M56 Valve Cover or the GAS CCV. I am sorta leaning towards the GAS CCV since it's easier to maintain when doing oil changes and Im kind of a sucker for supporting small businesses. I am going to preorder regardless (He has a cutoff for July 31st for this next batch if anyone is interested) and If I dont use it i'll just sell it.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    This one isn't too common, is there something wrong with yours?

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    The front subframe cracking is super common on tracked E36's. Mine failed spectacularly and my junkyard replacement even had a hairline crack starting. Since my ZHP is destined to be a track car, and since the subframes are so similar, I figured I'd get this knocked out sooner rather than later.

    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    If youre down for it I can offer a helping hand every once and awhile, I think itll help me learn. I also see you did your rear subframe/diff bushings. Mine are cracked so I definitely have to do it but looks like kind of a hard job, would love some tips there.
    Send me a PM and we'll see if a time works for us. I just became a student again and will be shipping off to Michigan on 7/31, so I don't have much more time in NJ.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    69
    Finally got started on the car. Been putting off working on it for months, mostly due to being busy and getting cold feet, this is the first time Ive ever worked on a car besides changing fluids/very basic stuff. Got a low coolant light the other day while driving back from a 6 hour round trip drive. It looks like pressure was building up and spraying from the cap. I put on the german auto solutions cap temporarily and that slowed the leak down. It would leak again if I drove hard.

    Decided it was time to start working on it. I work remote for now and when I do go in I take the bus so I can afford to have it off the road for a few days even weeks.

    Going to do everything in the engine bay that I have the parts for, this includes:

    M56 Valve Cover Swap/CCV delete
    Spark plugs
    Expansion Tank
    Radiator + Hoses
    Thermostat
    Water pump
    pulleys + tensioners
    Belts
    Intake Boots
    Throttle Body and ICV gaskets
    GAS DISA rebuild kit
    Power steering reservoir
    Oil filter housing gasket (viton)
    Voltage regulator
    New Aftermarket Intake (Injen)


    It's a lot to be doing at once but I figure I only have to take this stuff apart once if I do it all at the same time.

    So far I have taken apart almost everything.

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    This is while I taking stuff apart, cooling system gutted, valve cover off






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    Some reddish deposit in the back, engine has 196k miles. Will start using Rotella with the coming oil changes and do some engine flushes, maybe itll help.









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    CCV deleted, throttle body/disa/icv/dipstick off, also lots of oil by OFG.










    I didn't take too many pictures so far because I was really focused on taking everything apart, and swearing. Notes so far on my first go around:

    -Lots of swear words and lower back pain, even though I jacked up the front of the car a little bit with wheel cribs.
    -The CCV was a total PITA even though I wasnt planning on keeping the thing. Glad to be getting rid of it.
    -There's coolant and oil everywhere.
    -The oil filter housing gasket is leaking a crap ton of oil, going to go in with some brake cleaner and clean everything up. Also looked like the dipstick ccv hose was leaking oil. I have a huge puddle of oil under my car, hoping its just a combo of ccv/OFG and not the oil pan. Valve cover gasket looked pretty new.
    -I am very grateful for youtube videos


    Will post more updates and pics as the car comes together.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,832
    I definitely applaud your efforts to undertake this stuff on your own for the first time. Ive occasionally done some work on my fiancé's clubman S (new coolant bottle, oil changes mostly. I second your "thank god for YouTube videos" thought, makes things soooo much easier) but I absolutely refuse to do any mechanical maintenance on my ZHP for fear I will break something or mess something up.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    69
    Quote Originally Posted by BADCLOWN View Post
    I definitely applaud your efforts to undertake this stuff on your own for the first time. Ive occasionally done some work on my fiancé's clubman S (new coolant bottle, oil changes mostly. I second your "thank god for YouTube videos" thought, makes things soooo much easier) but I absolutely refuse to do any mechanical maintenance on my ZHP for fear I will break something or mess something up.
    Thank you, if I had a nicer example I'd be more afraid too. But the whole point of me buying this car was to learn to drive manual (check) and learn how to work on it. My budget was around 5-6K, and I was looking at older ford focuses (foci?). I actually snagged this ZHP up for 5500, knowing it would be more expensive to maintain but more rewarding to own.

    It is sort of scary but the more I take it apart the more I realize it's just a bunch of metal and plastic and nuts and bolts. Should be nothing to worry about, right? (lol)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,244
    Nice log of stuff, and I applaud you too for doing this stuff on your own. When I picked up mine in 2015, I did similar maintenance (not the M56 valve cover) with similar levels of experience, and YouTube videos and forum tutorials were the saving grace.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    Thank you, if I had a nicer example I'd be more afraid too. But the whole point of me buying this car was to learn to drive manual (check) and learn how to work on it. My budget was around 5-6K, and I was looking at older ford focuses (foci?). I actually snagged this ZHP up for 5500, knowing it would be more expensive to maintain but more rewarding to own.

    It is sort of scary but the more I take it apart the more I realize it's just a bunch of metal and plastic and nuts and bolts. Should be nothing to worry about, right? (lol)
    Nice, I did the same thing tbh. Except in my case, everything was way more expensive and wasn't as well documented (DIY wise) as it is now, so I had to pioneer some shit and pray lol

    You'll be in great shape. Everything is documented now, even the fuck ups lol So now you can even fix your mistakes lol

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    69
    Fell off the project for a bit but back on it today. Did the Oil filter housing gasket and replaced the vanos oil line and both sensors on the oil filter housing. Gasket was completely worn, (it broke into a bunch of pieces when taking it out). Replaced it with a viton gasket.

    Ordered the oil pan gasket so tackling that next. Removed the sway bar and controls arms, got a harbor freight engine support bar and I removed the engine mounts. Was about to drop the oil pan but realized I didn’t have an e10 torx so have to go buy one of those tomorrow.


    Got 2 questions:

    1. My engine and oil pan floor cover/skid plate are completely gunked up in an oily
    sludge. I live in a condo and can’t really pressure wash in there. Tried cleaning it up with some shop towels but it would of taken 10 rolls. Is it bad for the engine to be dirty and gunked up? Is there an easy way to dissolve and clean it up without using a pressure washer?

    2. Since everything is covered in oil my power steering lines and some of my rack are covered in oil too, so can’t tell if they’re leaking. The main hard lines under the steering rack are pretty caked in oil. Is it worth replacing all the power steering lines while I’m down here? I already have the reservoir lines.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    Fell off the project for a bit but back on it today. Did the Oil filter housing gasket and replaced the vanos oil line and both sensors on the oil filter housing. Gasket was completely worn, (it broke into a bunch of pieces when taking it out). Replaced it with a viton gasket.

    Ordered the oil pan gasket so tackling that next. Removed the sway bar and controls arms, got a harbor freight engine support bar and I removed the engine mounts. Was about to drop the oil pan but realized I didn’t have an e10 torx so have to go buy one of those tomorrow.


    Got 2 questions:

    1. My engine and oil pan floor cover/skid plate are completely gunked up in an oily
    sludge. I live in a condo and can’t really pressure wash in there. Tried cleaning it up with some shop towels but it would of taken 10 rolls. Is it bad for the engine to be dirty and gunked up? Is there an easy way to dissolve and clean it up without using a pressure washer?

    2. Since everything is covered in oil my power steering lines and some of my rack are covered in oil too, so can’t tell if they’re leaking. The main hard lines under the steering rack are pretty caked in oil. Is it worth replacing all the power steering lines while I’m down here? I already have the reservoir lines.
    I would replace the power steering lines. A lot of the gunk could be from the power steering reservoir that just drips down, at least on mine it does.

    Also, cleaning up the engine and the tray will help you identify any future leaks much more easily. I would clean up as much as possible with shop towels and then do a final rinse in a bath tub. You’d have to clean the bath tub later obviously. I have cleaned my air filter this way. Other option is taking it to a diy car wash if you have the means.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    818
    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    Fell off the project for a bit but back on it today. Did the Oil filter housing gasket and replaced the vanos oil line and both sensors on the oil filter housing. Gasket was completely worn, (it broke into a bunch of pieces when taking it out). Replaced it with a viton gasket.

    Ordered the oil pan gasket so tackling that next. Removed the sway bar and controls arms, got a harbor freight engine support bar and I removed the engine mounts. Was about to drop the oil pan but realized I didn’t have an e10 torx so have to go buy one of those tomorrow.


    Got 2 questions:

    1. My engine and oil pan floor cover/skid plate are completely gunked up in an oily
    sludge. I live in a condo and can’t really pressure wash in there. Tried cleaning it up with some shop towels but it would of taken 10 rolls. Is it bad for the engine to be dirty and gunked up? Is there an easy way to dissolve and clean it up without using a pressure washer?

    2. Since everything is covered in oil my power steering lines and some of my rack are covered in oil too, so can’t tell if they’re leaking. The main hard lines under the steering rack are pretty caked in oil. Is it worth replacing all the power steering lines while I’m down here? I already have the reservoir lines.

    I used Super Clean with great results. Spray it on, let is soak and wash off (or use towels to mop it up). The only difference between the foaming version vs regular is the spray bottle. I've refilled the foaming bottle from the gallon of the regular/non-foaming Super Clean and it still foams. Walmart is the cheapest (link). Walmart's the cheapest for the gallon refill, too.

    If you're not able to hose it off, perhaps it's worth taking it to a self carwash to hose off the engine bay and under-side when you're all done.

    If you have the budget, the time, and the willingness to change the PS hardlines, might as well. But if you're just diagnosing where the leaks are, then perhaps clean them up and then keep an eye on them (if it leaks it'll usually start weaping from where the rubber hose joins the metal crimp connectors).

    Lots of good work, keep us posted.

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