Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    664
    Mistakes are painful, but they can be the best way to learn if you adopt that mindset, so good job on taking on this challenge.
    I also bought my zhp kinda beat up for 5k and did all the work myself; most of the things I had never done before either.

    A piece of advice: since you are probably going to touch every piece of the engine while you are doing this project, itís good to get in the habit of cleaning every component you work on. Youíre probably already doing this, but just my 2 cents. I learned this from my cousin who was big on cars for a while and I feel it gives me peace of mind that parts are going back in cleaner than when they came out.

    Also, definitely find somewhere to hose off the underpan, because when it comes time to do the oil pan gasket, you will wanna get the oil pain REAL clean before putting it back on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
    Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
    My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    54
    Replaced the left strut tower I broke and installed both front struts in the car. Morale restored !

    The precision instruments torque wrench is fantastic. Super easy to adjust (itís just a small knob no screw, and doesnít get harder as you increase torque), donít have to set back to zero when done, and very nice audible tactile click. Torqued the top nuts to 25 foot pounds and the pinch bolts to 60 foot pounds.

    Going to have some dinner and figure out what Iím going to tackle tomorrow.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    54
    Removed the power steering lines and drained all the old fluid. Was going to remove the control arms but for some reason I dont have an 18mm wrench and it's tough to get a socket on the nut so I ordered a wrench.

    Back when I had a PPI the mechanic mentioned that my "evap filter" was cracked and should be replaced. He mentioned its sometimes called a cannister filter. I found out what it was and found it on the car, it's under the rear right wheel well you have to remove a panel to see it.

    I didn't see any "cracks", although I didn't fully remove the panels surrounding it because they were falling apart, but I did see that one of the hoses was broken looking. Here are some photos:






    Anyone know the purpose of this cannister filter? And how would I replace that hose and what is it going to?



    I also removed one of the boots on the steering rack to look at it. It looked pretty clean/dry in there other than a bunch of grease on the rack. I think that's a good sign but posting here to make sure it's not a potential problem, the oily stuff on the boot I'm 99% sure is from my OFHG/OPG leaks, the whole bottom of the car is covered in oil/sludge


  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    54
    Some updates,

    I stopped working on the car for a couple months, back on it and determined to finish in the next month or so.

    When trying to replace the control arms and control arm bushings I stripped both the threads on the passenger side mounts in the frame. I was able to grind away the messed up threads for one of the holes and use a longer bolt, for the one one I had to tap up to a size m12. (stock is m10)




    Got a grade 8.8 instead of 10.9 for the m12. Grade 10.9 m12 would have been way overkill, tightening torque on a grade 8 m12 is 55 foot pounds, 11 more than the 44 ft lbs on a grade 10.9 m10.

    Tapping wasnt too difficult, I did not have to modify the alignment dowel the m12 fit perfectly. I did have to bore out the hole on the lollipop bracket about 1mm to fit the m12 bolt.

    I have now learned my lesson to not use impact tools until I have threaded things on by hand.



    While I was there I replaced the steering coupler (guibo) with a new one, and did the oil pan gasket.

    I got one of those threaded oil pump nuts but I didnt put it on, I heard mixed reviews because sometimes it can shear the shaft. I decided last minute to not do it, I was going to loosen the nut, I backed it off a bit, then retightened a bit again. I dont have a left threaded torque wrench, and I don't know if I really tightened it that much. Its aluminum so I didnt want to risk stripping anything. Something on the back of my mind says maybe I drop the oil pan again and check, but I REALLY dont want to do that. So many bolts.


    I replaced my differential bushings after that. I went with a meyle HD big diff bushing and stock front bushings. The stock ones on my car were in good shape but the rear was pretty cracked. Used a tool I rented from a member of the ZHP facebook group.


    Since the diff was off decided to detach the other suspension components back there and drop the subframe. Everything went well until I tried to remove the driver side parking brake cable.

    WHAT. A. PAIN.

    It would not budge at all. Soaked it with penetrant for 2 days. Tried pliers, vice grips, yanking as much as I could and it didnt move a millimeter. Eventually I decided to cut off the cable at both ends.



    To remove the remaining cable was still a nightmare. What I had to do was stripped off the rubber sleeve and get to the twisted metal wire underneath. Then I grabbed it with a pair of pliers and twisted it to undo the twist to straighten out the wire. It kept breaking until eventually I got to the end where the subframe is. I used a drill to catch onto the wire and then pulled it out with pliers.

    I did this until eventually the wire pulled out with the rubber sleeve.



    The outer sleeve that goes in to the subframe was still stuck in there. It was basically adhered to the subframe sleeve. I had to use a flathead and hammer it between the subframe sleeve and the rubber sleeve to break up the adhesion. Eventually I was able to get pliers in there and pull out the remaining sleeve.

    Rusty Caramel Goodness:




    Needless to say I am going to anti-seize the living S*** out of the new parking cable I get.



    While the subframe was out I inspected the bottom RACP.








    Scraped out some more and removed studs and saw some cracks:





    I really dont want to weld on underside plates, I cant weld and to get someone to do it in my small garage in jackstands would probably be a pain. I've been researching a ton of ways to do this without welding underside plates, which seem to be a bandaid anyway.

    For rear-reinforcement, I was going to do the new CMP rear weld-in beam.

    https://cmpautoengineering.com/colle...r-weld-in-beam

    It was 182$ shipped. Yes I have to weld but only from the top, should be a lot easier for a mobile welder to come and do that, and I can cut the trunk/prep before they get here to minimize the work they have to do.

    CMP also offers a front weld-in beam, but it only works if you have split folding rear seats, which I dont.

    But then I found the vincebar kit, that has an epoxy/rivet version, and I ordered the fuel kit. For just under $700 including tools. I just need epoxy, and a rivet tool.


    Finally I will be adding aluminum subframe bushings. Came across this guy who CNCs some solid aluminum bushings in the tri-state area. Since hes a one man shop they come out a bit cheaper than alternatives, for what looks like similar quality:

    https://ctmotorsport1.com/shop/ols/p...id-bushing-kit




    If I stop drill the crack on my left rear mount I think I should be good doing these 3 things without needed to weld in underside plates.



    I also purchased a 3.38 diff from a 330ci automatic to replace my 3.07 diff.


    Since my subframe is out I will be refreshing the bushings in the rear suspension. For RTABs I was going to do meyle hd with limiters, but decided to try the MOOG Sphericals. There is a guy on the e46fanatics forum (330shawn) that made an installation kit with a spacer ring to allow proper depth insertion when installing, and some metal sleeves that allow you to use the stock bolt size in the RTAB bracket.

    I'll also be replacing the rear lower control arms with some steel camber arms. Looking at either bimmerworld or powerflex. My stamped ones are in okay condition but the part just feels so cheap rather go with something nicer.

    For the other bushings still trying to decide whether I should do the m3 ball bearing upgrade or stay with stock bushings.



    Since I had to lower the exhaust a bit and remove the heatshield I will also be replacing my flex disc with a Meyle HD unit and replacing the CSB, and replacing some shifter bushings while Im down there.


    Once that is done I will do the tranny mounts with Rogue Engineering mounts, and then button up the rest of the car front suspension (new sway bar endlinks/tie rods, sway bar bushings) and install the cooling system.


    Also ordered a beisan Vanos kit.


    Needless to say the scope of this project has expanded a bit but I'm loving everything I'm learning. I've become much more comfortable with DIY and really have a good idea of how a car is laid out and the quirks of the e46. Now let's see if I can finish this thing before fall weather is over.
    Last edited by REF84; 09-26-2022 at 06:32 PM.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,114
    Sounds like a good plan but be aware of what you're getting with the Rogue tranny mounts. Any of the drivetrain-to-chassis (engine, tranny, diff) mounts are going to transmit a good bit of vibration.

    I wouldn't recommend anything more than a stiffer rubber for a street driven car: M3 engine/tranny, meyle hd diff.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    807
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Sounds like a good plan but be aware of what you're getting with the Rogue tranny mounts. Any of the drivetrain-to-chassis (engine, tranny, diff) mounts are going to transmit a good bit of vibration.

    I wouldn't recommend anything more than a stiffer rubber for a street driven car: M3 engine/tranny, meyle hd diff.
    ^^^^^^

    I've had a variety of driveline mounts (various materials) and anything other than rubber ruined the car entirely. The most aggressive setup I can recommend is Group N engine mounts + M3 transmission mounts, which is what I'm running right now. You can't go wrong with a full M3 combo either though. Avoid anything other than rubber like the plague.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    ^^^^^^

    I've had a variety of driveline mounts (various materials) and anything other than rubber ruined the car entirely. The most aggressive setup I can recommend is Group N engine mounts + M3 transmission mounts, which is what I'm running right now. You can't go wrong with a full M3 combo either though. Avoid anything other than rubber like the plague.
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Sounds like a good plan but be aware of what you're getting with the Rogue tranny mounts. Any of the drivetrain-to-chassis (engine, tranny, diff) mounts are going to transmit a good bit of vibration.

    I wouldn't recommend anything more than a stiffer rubber for a street driven car: M3 engine/tranny, meyle hd diff.
    I have these: https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...nts_p_137.html

    It says theyre neoprene and are "compliant for street use". And bimmerworld describes them as "slightly stiffer" than m3 transmission mounts. But I didnt read any actual real world reviews. Are these really that bad? If so, I'll get m3 mounts.

    I went OEM M3 for the engine mounts, not sure why I had bought rogue for transmission, I went with their shock tower mount and probably threw these in the cart too.
    Last edited by REF84; 09-30-2022 at 07:57 AM.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    807
    The advantages of stiff transmission mounts are close to 0 (I've been there) but the engine mounts make a massive difference from a performance perspective. If you're gonna go stiff, go stiff there. Less noticeable than the transmission mounts too.

    That being said, full M3 parts is a good combo.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Englewood, NJ
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    The advantages of stiff transmission mounts are close to 0 (I've been there) but the engine mounts make a massive difference from a performance perspective. If you're gonna go stiff, go stiff there. Less noticeable than the transmission mounts too.

    That being said, full M3 parts is a good combo.
    Which transmission mounts did you try before?

    Im looking at reviews in the nam3 forum/e46fanatics/bimmerforums and I havent found someone say something bad about the rogue mounts (yet). I even saw a youtube review where he went from 80A poly to the rogue mounts and said they were way less harsh than the 80A poly. I believe neoprene is 60A but im not sure of the exact shore rating of the RE mounts. They all say the nvh increase amount is negligible.

    In my hand they have a tiny bit of give but not much.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    807
    Quote Originally Posted by REF84 View Post
    Which transmission mounts did you try before?

    Im looking at reviews in the nam3 forum/e46fanatics/bimmerforums and I havent found someone say something bad about the rogue mounts (yet). I even saw a youtube review where he went from 80A poly to the rogue mounts and said they were way less harsh than the 80A poly. I believe neoprene is 60A but im not sure of the exact shore rating of the RE mounts. They all say the nvh increase amount is negligible.

    In my hand they have a tiny bit of give but not much.
    Revshift and Condor.

    Why are you looking to do anything other than OEM transmission mounts though? Like I said, if you are looking for tangible improvements, look at engine mounts. Group N mounts are hard to beat and there is no additional NVH when driving and no distortion like on poly mounts. Though in your position I would probably just do M3 mounts all around and call it a day.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

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