Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Englewood, NJ

    bare metal rust on rear wheel fender and hood

    Trying to figure out best course of action here:

    I have some potential rush issues I need to address, first the right rear wheel arch, I misjudged a garage opening when I was first learning stick and dumped the clutch too fast and car lurched and i scraped up against garage opening. It was about a month ago, showing some surface rust.

    Other issue is hood has some deep bare metal rock chips that have rust forming on them.

    I went to a local shop and was quoted $1000 if I pay cash to do a full hood respray and and to do the right fender area

    Is this a reasonable price or can I do this myself with some sanding and touch up primer/paint? I dont want perfect but I do want rust protection

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    For the small spots you could sand the rust out and use touch up. But for the fender, probably a respray would be best.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    I paid $3,200 last year to have my bumper cover, hood, roof, and trunk painted by an expert. The rest of my car's paint is excellent, mileage is quite low, and there's no rust anywhere. So, it was worth it to me to have a professional do it right. That said, I chose to save myself several thousand dollars by not painting the whole thing, because it is a "driver"--albeit a fair weather one--and won't stay perfect anyway. On the other hand, I have several other, rather high mileage vehicles that only get my personal "hack" form of body work--grind (cut and weld if necessary), fill, sand, spray with "Rust Reformer" and, if the car is lucky, coat with a some Rust-oleum or bed-liner spray. On those cars, I'm just trying to prolong the body and frame long enough to get a respectable amount of miles out of them (this is a challenge in Vermont).

    As for the cost, $1,000 to do the fender and hood is pretty consistent with what I've paid for quality work in the past, but is he going to do the whole fender or just the damaged area?
    2004 BMW 330i ZHP (52k miles), Jet Black with black leather, MFactory LSD (3.38) with Z4 cover, 18"x8.5" ET38 APEX Arc-8's (Anthracite) with 245/40 Michelin PSS', Koni Sports with factory springs and front and rear reinforcement plates, Shark Injector, Corsa TSE3 cat-back exhaust, TMS under-driven pulleys (water & steering), CDV delete, TMS CF strut brace, K&N CAI, GAS DISA rebuild, TMS pedals, Wheelskins steering wheel cover, roller tray center console, black-out grilles, and WeatherTech mats

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2020
    SF Bay, CA
    Ask for a bunch of quotes from a bunch of places. Guaranteed you will get prices with such a wide range, that the most expensive could be more than 2x the cost of the cheapest. There are so, so many factors that go into bodywork. You can get a shop in the ghetto who will slap some filler on, sand, and shoot some crappy Transtar (just going off the paint code) all over it. Some of the more expensive body shops will take more time to prep it and use much higher quality material, for example the more expensive paints (Glasurit, Sikkens, Spies Hecker, etc.) are from what I've heard more durable and chip-resistant than the cheaper ones. And have proper colour matching, using camera and/or spray out on spray cards.
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)

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