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Thread: Console Storage Compartment Removal: How to?

  1. #11
    The remaining input I seek is potential repainting.

    Once I removed the rubberized coating on the storage compartment door and cigarette door (hot water first attempt, then if needed denatured alcohol) I will assess the color matching between the two doors. In the event they need to be homogenized, can Rust-o-leum paint be used? Does the surface need to prep in any certain way before painting?

    Thank you for everyone's assistance. I take the approach to ask questions and not force anything. I have a long list of repairs and maintenance tasks which do not need to be increased because of my errors.

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Satcho View Post
    The remaining input I seek is potential repainting.

    Once I removed the rubberized coating on the storage compartment door and cigarette door (hot water first attempt, then if needed denatured alcohol) I will assess the color matching between the two doors. In the event they need to be homogenized, can Rust-o-leum paint be used? Does the surface need to prep in any certain way before painting?

    Thank you for everyone's assistance. I take the approach to ask questions and not force anything. I have a long list of repairs and maintenance tasks which do not need to be increased because of my errors.
    SEM trim paint satin black matches factory automotive finishes.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    965
    Some like the result of Plasti dip, covering everything in it! I believe bumper paint is a better option - it stays flexible, but doesn't peel off like Plasti dip.

    https://www.duplicolor.com/product/trim-bumper-paint/
    https://www.semproducts.com/product/...tertm-aerosols

    Some prep ideas here - https://www.semproducts.com/product/...product-videos
    2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats

  4. #14
    Thanks! Where does one purchase it? Is there any special surface prep required other than clean?

  5. #15
    John:

    Thank you!

  6. #16
    John:

    Is a clear coat recommended?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    965
    Quote Originally Posted by Satcho View Post
    John: Is a clear coat recommended?
    You'd want a satin or matte finish if you did clear. The flexible bumper paint is more durable than the original BMW "coating" to fingernail scratches, etc.
    2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
    You'd want a satin or matte finish if you did clear. The flexible bumper paint is more durable than the original BMW "coating" to fingernail scratches, etc.
    Good point. I ordered the SEM products for plastic ( I tested the plastic with acetone) which yielded the SEM Stand Free according to SEM's website, the SEM 38353, Plastic and Leather Prep and the SEM Flexible Bumper Coater. All which were purchased via Ebay.

    John, thanks for your assistance.

    Now on to removing the rubberized coating. I am going to try a citrus cleaner and Goo Gone first. I think I can control the removal better with these products. If not, I think I'll try acetone next.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    965
    Many different approaches to removing the coating. Most involve a not-too-heavy Scotch-brite pad.
    2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
    Many different approaches to removing the coating. Most involve a not-too-heavy Scotch-brite pad.
    I tried a citrus cleaner first ... no material benefit. Next, Goo Gone ... no material benefit. Next, hot water (heated in a microwave). This worked great. I used a scotch brite pad (dark green) and vigorously applied pressure to remove the coating. I left the pieces in the water for 1-2 minutes. This method was effective after two to three soaks and rubs.

    Now awaiting SEM products to refinish.

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