Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    397
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    Don't forget to transfer the AUC module that sits on the fan shroud mounting as the new one doesn't come with one. It's the one the right-side arrow is pointing to (stole this pic from rmeuropean).

    Kk cheers!

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    397
    Thanks for always going next level...

    The thank, do I need the one with all the extras or can I just get the $100 tank only?
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-e46expankit

    Mech says lets get the tank first and test for a blown gasket when I suggested we do that before replacing the fan and thermostat etc...

    That's the right move right?

    (FYI there was no milky film under the oil cap, he checked that twice)
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    133
    You're mobile mechanic is at best a generalist. He may be a good generalist, or he may not be so good.
    If I am not going to do it myself, I'll let generalists do brakes, brake fluid flushes, oil changes, etc.

    A BMW specialist who knows the E46 does everything else, and particularly anything involving a scanner.

    An overheat on your all aluminum engine is potentially a very bad thing.. you need someone who knows the E46 cooling system well to properly diagnose this.
    Last edited by Pilot05; 09-11-2021 at 07:59 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by Dathaeus View Post
    Thanks for always going next level...

    The thank, do I need the one with all the extras or can I just get the $100 tank only?
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-e46expankit

    Mech says lets get the tank first and test for a blown gasket when I suggested we do that before replacing the fan and thermostat etc...

    That's the right move right?

    (FYI there was no milky film under the oil cap, he checked that twice)
    You don't need the tank to test. You can do compression/leak test with it like it is.

    The no film under the cap doesn't mean much. I could still leak into the cylinders. If you're suggesting the test, it sounds like your car is way worst off than what you are telling us. I would not buy anything until I do the tests at this point.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    You don't need the tank to test. You can do compression/leak test with it like it is.

    The no film under the cap doesn't mean much. I could still leak into the cylinders. If you're suggesting the test, it sounds like your car is way worst off than what you are telling us. I would not buy anything until I do the tests at this point.
    Perhaps draining the oil could give more of an indication of coolant mixing with the oil. It should be pretty obvious there.

    I guess the question needs to be asked: how bad of an overheat are we talking here? Was the coolant gauge reprogramming done on the car (to show REAL temperatures, not that buffered factory garbage coding) or is it still on the stock coding? If it was stock coding and well into the red, you may have a serious problem.

    Are you having any symptoms of an overheated engine?
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    818
    Bummer about your overheating problem and the lack of luck with the mobile mechanic so far.

    If you have AAA (with the 100 mile tow membership), have it towed to a reputable independent BMW shop and ask them to perform a compression test / diagnosis. It might cost 150, but is worth it, IMO. If you're handy and willing to wrench, a compression gauge isn't that expensive (maybe even free to borrow from O'Reilly's) and it should take an afternoon.

    Throwing parts at a problem gets really expensive really quickly, and only compounds the frustration in my experience.

    Is using the mobile mechanic because there's no reputable shop within a reasonable distance?

    Edit to add:
    Seems kind of strange to just jump to the conclusion you need a new fan and expansion tank.
    Also, an overheating m54 can be as simple as air in the cooling system - bleeding the system can be finicky.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    I just saw OP's post on E46fanatics. I see why you are asking about the test now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dathaeus
    Driving normally in a small city environment, nothing unusual there for the last twenty years.

    Then there was some smoke coming out the hood, pretty light, could only tell mostly when I was going under 10 mph and at stop. This probably came from the leak from the house clip/connection getting compromised.

    Then the temperature red light came on... I was about couple miles from work, which I had to get to, so as I drove there, the gauge shut down the red light and it went past the red market.
    So the car overheated, then you continued driving while in that state? Do the tests because you may have a more serious problem on your hands now.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Yeah... that really isn't great. I'm really hoping for OP that the head gasket hasn't failed

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    Yeah... that really isn't great. I'm really hoping for OP that the head gasket hasn't failed

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    The head gasket would be the least of his concerns.

    Top tip: if the temperature even gets NEAR the red, pull over safely and immediately shut it down. Being late is better than shelling out tons of money for a new engine or car.


    With that said, have the tests performed before buying anything, as you don't want to throw money at a potentially totaled engine.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    The head gasket would be the least of his concerns.

    Top tip: if the temperature even gets NEAR the red, pull over safely and immediately shut it down. Being late is better than shelling out tons of money for a new engine or car.


    With that said, have the tests performed before buying anything, as you don't want to throw money at a potentially totaled engine.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    Well would the head gasket not fail as a result of warpage of the head itself due to overheating?

    Overheating is the achilles heel of our car. I have the buffer removed along with a digital gauge from my eKombi displaying on my nav

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


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