Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    SF Bay
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    613

    Tyler AKA YoitsTmac ZHP Coupe Hunt!

    Quote Originally Posted by BH93 View Post
    Are those dealers open to negotiate? What is the feedback when you reach out to them
    I didn’t negotiate with the red car because the PPI was super bad. I think I linked it above. TLDR: massive chips everywhere, paint chipping off rear bumper, CANBUS errors and water in brake fluid to the point the owner said it probably wasn’t safe. It would have been so much body work to get to the same condition of my last E46.

    The local white on brown has zero desire to drop a dollar. I even offer 11 which still felt high. He told me to piss off. I check all local listings 3 times a day. He updates it every 3-5 days so it’s on his mind.

    I have not called this Georgia dealer.

    I am still trying to contact the non ZHP white on brown 2005 local to me with 130k with a 7.5k list

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    21
    Oh shit, that white car is right down the road from me! They used to get ZHPs in all the time but their lot is mostly e90s and e82s now. The price is definitely high but I'm sure they'd take less. That color combo is pretty rare in a ZHP coupe. I very rarely see white ones, much less with natural brown.
    '05 330CI ZHP 6MT
    '90 325i 5 speed coupe
    '02 4Runner 4WD

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF Bay
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    613
    Quote Originally Posted by cody_94 View Post
    Oh shit, that white car is right down the road from me! They used to get ZHPs in all the time but their lot is mostly e90s and e82s now. The price is definitely high but I'm sure they'd take less. That color combo is pretty rare in a ZHP coupe. I very rarely see white ones, much less with natural brown.
    So ironic since there’s one near me. What do you value it at? And maybe PM me to look at it? Can throw you a little something for your time.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    7,623
    2005 IR / black / 6MT
    157,000 miles

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
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    1,739
    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    All fair points. Year doesn’t matter to me too much beyond LCI and now I have a natural brown interior in my room, so combo doesn’t even matter much beyond exterior (although still a bonus). Seat and door panel swaps are just as hard as OFHG :P

    I don’t know. It’s like they want $13k, which for that mileage I think should be in better shape. They seem to try and move BMW’s specifically, they shud have at least fixed the bumper sag and glasses holder for like 2-$300. If I wanted to pay that I have an real difficult to work with seller who wants 13k for an 06 white on natural brown with 110k and stunning paint 2 hours away (severe accident this year tho). It’s sat for 3 going on 4 weeks because it’s too high. I mean it’s in CA, this is arguably the best spot to demand a premium and where your buyer most likely lives in my opinion.

    The red imola natural brown on Colorado with 120k miles or so has also been sitting for 3 weeks and looks just as good in dealer pics. Just my two cents. Cars and bids has two red on black autos with sub 110k miles sell for under $10k in the last 120 days (one about 45 days ago). Those are the price references I’m using to gauge value. When it gets that high, then I can begin to look at non-ZHP’s for $7k and do bumpers, headliner and wrap the window trim.


    Edit: if I’m off my rocks with values someone please put me back in my place.
    Iono I see prices for the dealers to be all in that area. It's always going to be higher than private party. But that's just the listed price. You should negotiate. Those sub 10k is actually 10k after buyer's fee which is 4.5% of the sold price. I consider carsandbids to be more similar to private party as well.

    That car looks alright in pictures. All of those things are easily fixable. You should use that to your advantage to knock the price down more. Heck sometimes dealers will fix the issues you point out as well. I got an entire bumper repainted once and managed to haggle them down still lol But yeah. I mean sunglass holder, what is it like $30? takes 5 mins to replace. Front bumper, scraped on the bottom, needs realignment. I guess you could repaint it. I see trim popping out, but you can glue it. nicks on side skirt/rear bumper, touch up lol But you should check it out somehow. Cause I don't trust dealers for shit.

    tbh, I feel like you're nitpicking a lot of things. Like you're expecting collector quality stuff for not collector quality price. Like if it was perfect, I would normally see the cars in like the 15k+ range. Good is like 11-14k, fair is like 7-10k.

    Also, your comparison with the other white car make no sense to me. car with accident < car without accident lol If the accident is severe like you said, I would not even look at that shit.

  6. #56
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    Jun 2012
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    Socal
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    came across this lol awful paint color. not a zhp hence the price.

    https://offerup.com/item/detail/1285...+330ci&cid=5.1

    why are there so many verts for sale?

    Too bad you don't want black. This car looks good in the pictures.

    https://offerup.com/item/detail/1270...+330ci&cid=5.1

    Iono why, but I want this lol But it's been posted for a year so probably gone.

    https://offerup.com/item/detail/8175...+330ci&cid=5.1

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    SF Bay
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    613
    Quote Originally Posted by cakM3 View Post
    +1
    Paint flakes for Imola, mystic or both?

    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    Iono I see prices for the dealers to be all in that area. It's always going to be higher than private party. But that's just the listed price. You should negotiate. Those sub 10k is actually 10k after buyer's fee which is 4.5% of the sold price. I consider carsandbids to be more similar to private party as well.
    I was unaware of the after fee. So that's added after you purchase a car through them? Or just stating that the money the owner gets is actually less?

    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    tbh, I feel like you're nitpicking a lot of things. Like you're expecting collector quality stuff for not collector quality price. Like if it was perfect, I would normally see the cars in like the 15k+ range. Good is like 11-14k, fair is like 7-10k.

    Also, your comparison with the other white car make no sense to me. car with accident < car without accident lol If the accident is severe like you said, I would not even look at that shit.
    Didn't mean to be nitpicking, but if you don't know I got totally screwed on my first car ($3k in repairs day 1). It was because I was an uniformed buyer. So when I look for a car, I always immediately look at what's wrong. I'm not nicking the car for it. Like you said, they are easy fixes, but I think not even attempting to fix the trim and glasses holder is just a poor indication of the dealer. It would obvious present the car better.

    I don't know what collector quality means. I have been watching cars ever since I lost my car on the 14th and have a number of people looking for me, be on here, the Bimmercircuit chat, local CCA and friends. I have seen a lot of cars. I watch them come and go. When determining value, I really think of those last two red on black automatic ZHP's on cars and bids. $9.1k for 97k miles zhp on September 1st - a few chips here and there. May 14th, a red on black automatic ZHP. Few wonky marks on the back, but sold for 9.7k with 97k miles. Lets just say 10.5k adjusted for current prices.

    Based on that, automatic ZHP's with over 120k miles should sell for 10k tops in similar condition. The market seems to agree. I have actively considered three ZHP's.

    - trig, blk, AT, 180k with dead cats per the dealer. Asking $8k for ~8 days.
    - imola, naturalbwn, AT, 122k. Asking 11k and has been stagnant for 28 days on cars.com
    - white, naturalbwn, AT 110k. Asking 13k and stagnant 23 days. I know you said there's accidents, but he doesn't state that and in my opinion prices it as if it has had minor to no accidents
    - red, suedeblk, MT, 95k. Asked 14k - pulled listing after 30 days stagnant (I don't see it re-up anywhere). Maybe it sold, but the fact it expired and he was willing to do so much to help secure the deal with me implied to me that he decided he'd rather just keep it. I could ask but I would feel bad.

    Then there's this that I don't consider: Taig, blk, MT, 75k. Asking 17k. Time listed is unknown, but up for at least 10 days.

    I don't know how long a car should sit, but I believe 2+ weeks is when you should begin to worry about price. These are the anchors I use to gauge price. and value. With this anchors, I think $9k would be the right price for that one in Georgia.

  8. #58
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    Nov 2016
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    SF Bay
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    Quote Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
    came across this lol awful paint color. not a zhp hence the price.

    https://offerup.com/item/detail/1285...+330ci&cid=5.1

    why are there so many verts for sale?

    Too bad you don't want black. This car looks good in the pictures.

    https://offerup.com/item/detail/1270...+330ci&cid=5.1

    Iono why, but I want this lol But it's been posted for a year so probably gone.

    https://offerup.com/item/detail/8175...+330ci&cid=5.1
    That black one feels like a really good value. I may send someone to look at it there's always wraps. First one is definitely wrapped. The wrap came out well though

  9. #59
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    Jun 2012
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    Socal
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    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    I was unaware of the after fee. So that's added after you purchase a car through them? Or just stating that the money the owner gets is actually less?
    Yes. Seller lists for free, get the full value. Buyer pays value + fee. It's similar with BAT too.

    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    Didn't mean to be nitpicking, but if you don't know I got totally screwed on my first car ($3k in repairs day 1). It was because I was an uniformed buyer. So when I look for a car, I always immediately look at what's wrong. I'm not nicking the car for it. Like you said, they are easy fixes, but I think not even attempting to fix the trim and glasses holder is just a poor indication of the dealer. It would obvious present the car better.
    No I didn't know that. However, I feel like you are dismissing potential cars for small value fixes. Like OMG this car has a broken front reflector, the whole car is trash. That's what it sounds like you are doing. You should be looking out for high value problems. Any mechanical stuff, rust, chassis problems. You can't fix some of that or it will be very hard.

    For the trims and stuff on that dealer. Normally for used cars, they don't fix stuff like that to get it into sellable condition. Maybe a new car or even lease owned.

    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    I don't know what collector quality means. I have been watching cars ever since I lost my car on the 14th and have a number of people looking for me, be on here, the Bimmercircuit chat, local CCA and friends. I have seen a lot of cars. I watch them come and go. When determining value, I really think of those last two red on black automatic ZHP's on cars and bids. $9.1k for 97k miles zhp on September 1st - a few chips here and there. May 14th, a red on black automatic ZHP. Few wonky marks on the back, but sold for 9.7k with 97k miles. Lets just say 10.5k adjusted for current prices.

    Based on that, automatic ZHP's with over 120k miles should sell for 10k tops in similar condition. The market seems to agree. I have actively considered three ZHP's.

    - trig, blk, AT, 180k with dead cats per the dealer. Asking $8k for ~8 days.
    - imola, naturalbwn, AT, 122k. Asking 11k and has been stagnant for 28 days on cars.com
    - white, naturalbwn, AT 110k. Asking 13k and stagnant 23 days. I know you said there's accidents, but he doesn't state that and in my opinion prices it as if it has had minor to no accidents
    - red, suedeblk, MT, 95k. Asked 14k - pulled listing after 30 days stagnant (I don't see it re-up anywhere). Maybe it sold, but the fact it expired and he was willing to do so much to help secure the deal with me implied to me that he decided he'd rather just keep it. I could ask but I would feel bad.

    Then there's this that I don't consider: Taig, blk, MT, 75k. Asking 17k. Time listed is unknown, but up for at least 10 days.

    I don't know how long a car should sit, but I believe 2+ weeks is when you should begin to worry about price. These are the anchors I use to gauge price. and value. With this anchors, I think $9k would be the right price for that one in Georgia.
    Like excellent condition cars. excellent paint which you can only get with people that don't drive it and park in a garage. If you drive it, there's going to be rock chips and stuff. That's normal every day wear and tear.

    Have you ever sold a car before? It takes awhile. I would say 1-3 months would be the normal. If it's sold in less than 2 weeks, it was priced way too low. And if it's sitting for 6 months or longer, either it's priced way too high, or there is something wrong with it and people keep passing on it (like that white one). Bid sites, that's a whole different thing. They get listed for like a week.

    And the 2 ZHPs on carsandbids that you keep looking at. I'm not sure if you even looked at it, but they only went for that price because both of them were in accidents. They also have like all these imperfections that you would have screamed and called them trash by now. Else both of them would have totally be in the 12k range.

    Quote Originally Posted by YoitsTmac View Post
    That black one feels like a really good value. I may send someone to look at it there's always wraps. First one is definitely wrapped. The wrap came out well though
    That's what I thought. But then the details said it was painted. Won't know unless I see it in person. I would rip that shit off lol

  10. #60
    I agree with sillieidiot.

    @YoitsTmac

    I'm not saying you should settle or that you should just scoop up the next one you find that's clean title, but you're looking at cars that are in the $7k-$14k range with over 100k miles. The focus of cars at that price point and mileage should be clean title, no accident history, no rust, and some trail of maintenance history. And if you want to spend a little more for the right color combination or transmission, then there's a premium to sprinkle on top.

    Obviously people get lucky every once a in awhile and find an immaculate ZHP under priced, but realistically you're not going to find that. For the unicorns that do show up, you don't have the luxury to go get a PPI done and ponder about it because someone else will immediately scoop it up the same day...

    I'm only mentioning this because it seems like you're getting a PPI done for cars you have interest in... but the way it usually works is, the good deals that people find are because they took a gamble and picked up the car before anyone else. Sometimes this pays off, and sometimes it doesn't... More people share the good news than the bad...

    So I understand why you don't want to get burned again, but you can't have it both ways in that regard. 99% of the time, it's either a good deal with a calculated risk, or it's market price after looking over the entire car from an inspection.

    I'm not trying to kick you down or anything... I've gone through the same hurdles as you when I picked up my car, but at a certain point I came to this realization that I was treating this ~10k clunker of a car with 6 digit miles on the odometer like it was a 10,000 mile Porsche.

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