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    M3 Gauge Cluster Retrofit Thread

    I posted this procedure in my Mystic Adventure project thread and decided that for those wanting to do this retrofit for their non-M 3-series E46 BMWs it would be much easier for them to look here in the DIY section for the procedure I used to have a fully functional M3 gauge cluster working in my ZHP so here it is

    There are other options in getting the same results without having to splice into existing wiring. Mirza (Terra) has done the M3 gauge cluster mod to his ZHP when he had a ZHP but he did his by programming his DME to work with his gauge cluster. This, to me, is the best way to do this retrofit as it would truly be a plug and play solution however those who know how to program the gauge cluster/DME to work have not shared information so others could do this retrofit and when I reached out they have not responded so this is why I wrote up this DIY so that others will have the ability to do this mod if they want.

    I have to note that the procedure I used below originated from Dimitri Rukhadze when I purchased his adapter module so Dimitri get's the credit for this procedure. I just cleaned up the directions a little bit so that it is easier to understand...

    Disclaimer: By using this DIY to install an OEM M3 gauge cluster on your BMW, I am in no way held responsible for any mishap you may incur while working on your car. You accept full responsibility for your BMW when using any portion of this DIY.



    Preliminary Step:
    1. Start out by sourcing an OEM M3 gauge cluster with either a 23H or 24H code on it. I got a cluster with the 24H code on it (pictured below)



    2. To mod the door open indications for 4-doors (sedan and touring owners only), send the gauge cluster to Kassel Performance.

    https://www.kasselperformance.com/contact/

    3. To change the VIN and mileage as well as adjust the red line LEDs to 7k RPM, send the M3 gauge cluster to Fixels in North Carolina (you will also need to send your LCM module for the VIN/mileage update). Paul does awesome work and is highly recommended for this job

    If you don't have a Facebook account then you can send Paul an email here: blackknighti30@gmail.com
    https://www.facebook.com/Fixels




    Here are a few pictures showing Paul's work (above). Notice the red line RPM LEDs updated to 7K RPM and no tamper dot on my gauge cluster

    4. Order the adapter interface module for the M3 gauge cluster from Dimitri Rukhadze in Vienna, Austria. He charged me 95,64€ for the module and wiring harness adapter. His email is: drukhadze@gmail.com

    I told Dimitri the M3 gauge cluster was going into a 2004 US spec 330i 6-speed manual Performance Package (ZHP). He took it from there

    This is what the interface module and wiring loom that you will receive from Dimitri looks like. It takes about a week for him to produce this and then send it back to you.


    Procedure:
    I found the instructions a little confusing at first so I rewrote them to better understand the process to connect the wiring loom into the car's wiring. Fortunately all the connections needed are done to one plug (X11175 Dual Row Black gauge cluster connector).

    X11175 connector plug is the black one to the right (picture above) as you're facing the spot where the gauge cluster is mounted. The picture above shows the interface module completely connected and is tucked away in back to the right towards the radio head unit. There is enough space to tuck the adapter module there without causing any issue...

    Here is the direction I rewrote to document the process I used when installing this interface module (all wiring was labeled):

    CAN BUS Connection:

    Remove the can-bus wires, pins 9 & 10 on Plug X11175, then connect them to the DME CAN H/L wires. At the same time plug in the IKE_CAN_H/L wires (yellow wires with pins on them) into the vacant pin 9 and 10 contacts on connector plug X11175 (explained in steps below).

    1. Remove IKE CAN H wire from pin 9 on plug X11175 and insert wire from wiring harness labeled IKE CAN H (Yellow/Red wire) into pin 9 of plug X11175.

    2. Remove IKE CAN L wire from pin 10 on plug X11175 and insert wire from wiring harness labeled IKE CAN L (Yellow/Brown wire) into pin 10 of plug X11175.

    after completing steps 1 and 2 you should have this (shown in picture below):


    3. Take the DME CAN H wire (Blue/Red wire) and attach this wire to the IKE CAN H wire (Yellow/Red wire). I soldered these wires together and used heat shrink to seal the solder connection (see below picture).

    4. Take the DME CAN L wire (Red wire) and attach this wire to the IKE CAN L wire (Yellow/Brown wire). I soldered these wires together and used heat shrink to seal the solder connection (see picture above).



    5. Source for +12v1 supply must be chosen, so that the battery do not discharge constantly if engine is off. Good choice, key position R (terminal R). Tap into wire from Pin 6 of plug X11175.

    6. + 12v2 supply is source from key position II-Ignition (terminal 15). Tap into wire from pin 5 of plug X11175.

    7. TÖNS Cable (white with green stripe) is for Oil level Sensor, used mostly in cars with non M54 engines. Tap into wire from pin 17 of plug X11175.

    For steps 5, 6, and 7 (above), I followed the chart below:


    8. Ground (brown wire) can be tapped into ground (brown wire) on pin 1 of plug X11175.



    Dimitri added this comment: "If possible, don't place the module directly behind the speedometer. If possible, somewhere
    below of speedo, behind the footwell cover. I place it in my car left from OBD Plug."


    I had tucked my module behind and to the right of the gauge cluster by the radio head unit as there was space there without causing any issue and the module was secure being there.


    The pins on the chart correspond to the plug. Only wire not used was the reverse wire (not needed for manual cars).

    With the interface module connected to the car's wiring loom, this diagram applies...


    For comparison this is the generic BMW E46 diagram:


    Once everything is plugged in, this is what you should see:







    video link:
    https://flic.kr/p/2mtfZBc

    This mod is reversible and you can put back your original gauge cluster if you ever sell your ZHP. This thread was posted for the purpose of helping others to do this retrofit as there have not been too much information available for easy access other than programming. This procedure outlines another option you can do to get the desired result from retrofitting an OEM M3 gauge cluster into your non-M car.

    With this mod you have functioning oil temp gauge, coolant gauge all the other gauges work as expected. The oil warm up LEDs are functional as well as the shift lights. When rowing thru the gears at WOT and approaching red line you see the shift lights work as they are supposed to. It is very difficult to consider videoing while rowing thru the gears so I will have someone assist when doing thing sometime...

    Since doing this mod to my ZHP, I learned another good feature of modding an OEM M3 gauge cluster is if your engine coolant temp reaches red line all the RPM LEDs will start flashing to alert you. I found this to be an added benefit

    Hopefully this thread will be helpful for others wanting to do this for their rides


    credits:
    1. Raymond Liu for connecting me to Dimitri for the adapter module and wiring harness
    2. Mark Spencer for selling me the modded M3 gauge cluster that started this project
    3. Paul Martin of Fixels for setting up my gauge cluster with proper red line LEDs and VIN of my car
    4. Dimitri Rukhadze for producing the interface module without which this retrofit would not be possible.
    Last edited by cakM3; 07-11-2023 at 09:21 AM.

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