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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,832

    2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S - coolant issue

    I know some of you have owned a Mini in the past or currently and are generally more knowledgeable than myself so I thought I would ask:

    Fiance's car started pissing coolant out the bottle from getting too hot. The coolant warning lights were coming on as well. My indy thought there was a crack in the bottle at the seam so I ordered a brand new bottle and cap from FCP Euro. I installed the new bottle and found that one of the nipples on the old coolant bottle had nearly broken off inside the hose, so I suspect at a minimum air was getting in at that point.

    The new bottle was put on and I followed an instructional video on YouTube for adding coolant/bleeding the system. I turned the car to the on (not running) position and turned the heat all the way up. I then added coolant until the bottle was full. Once full, I opened the bleeder screw and immediately the coolant level went down and emptied the bottle. Now, the video stated that I should fill until I see coolant coming out of the bleeder screw but I never did. I added coolant until the level stopped going down. I closed the bleeder, then started the car with the heat still going and let the car run for 13-14 minutes and the coolant cap off (again per instructions). I did roughly 4-5 sessions of holding the gas at 2400rpm as well. I started noticing smoke under the hood and got out to find that the coolant had gotten hot and bubbled out the top. I turned the car off, added more coolant to replace what had spilled over, opened the bleeder screw again for another 15-20 seconds (level didnt go down at all) then closed it and ran the car for another maybe 5 minutes. The level in the bottle never went down and by that time I had to stop what I was doing to leave for work.

    What do you guys think is the issue here? I never saw coolant come out of the bleeder screw either time I opened it. Is there air in the system still? Is it possible the thermostat isn't opening (I would think this would throw a code, no?)?

    Any help would be appreciated.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    7,606
    Sorry I can't help. My 2005 Mini Cooper didn't require any coolant system work. GL with troubleshooting.
    2005 IR / black / 6MT
    157,000 miles

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,739
    hmm I feel like there's air in the system. I never actually filled coolant the way you're describing before. It seems like your way would purposely introduce more air into the system? I always did, car on (not engine on), low fan, high temp. Open the bleeder cap and keep pouring into the system until it comes out all in one shot. Then only after that will I turn on the car and see if the car overheats.

    It could be the thermostat. Could be partial closed, in which I don't think it will throw a code. I'd replace that if you haven't replaced that before. Otherwise, you could try doing a full flush. I assumed you only did a partial since all you did was the bottle and didn't see the need to drain out the radiator and the block.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,832
    I suspected the same thing (air still in the line), the car would blow heat out the vents again at temp so I figured the system was mostly full with an air pocket somewhere. I ended up running the engine with the bleeder screw open, this resulted in some more air coming out and I finally saw coolant come out of the screw (indicating there wasn't any more air in the system). Closed the bleeder, added a little more coolant, and went to beat on the car for 15-20 mins. Didn't have any issues, no coolant warning lights came on.

    The fiancé has been driving it the last few days with (fingers crossed) no issues.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,832
    Today the car developed a P0597 code which reads as "thermostat heater control circuit/open"

    The internetz states that this is more than likely a thermostat but could also be a thermostat wiring related issue. More than likely going to purchase a new thermostat and the pipe that runs in front of the motor for replacement.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



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