Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    344

    Braking vs Downshifting to Slow

    So I don't replace my brakes much at all because I tend to slow in gear rather than use the brakes, unless I of course have to slow down quickly or in the last 10-20 feet of a stop light etc. where I slightly massage the brakes.


    So I was wondering if I am missing any pros/cons for his?


    I think by using engine braking you save brakes but you waste a little gas matching engine speed while downshifting and if not done properly you might wear out the clutch prematurely.


    Any other major factors, i.e., does engine braking by itself really wear out components or cause damage if downshifting properly?
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  2. #2
    It’s going add additional wear not just on the clutch but on the engine as well.
    If you’re doing this to purely save brakes, then I’d say it’s easier to change brakes than a clutch…

    Having said that, I do rev match and downshift as much as I can cause I like to do it, not to reduce wear on the brakes on anything like that…


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    806
    Engine braking is mostly useful in the snow, when I'm just daily driving in normal conditions I usually switch to neutral and use brakes to slow down before a light or corner. Keeps the pads up to temp as well that way.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,713
    I normally don't rev match/downshift solely to slow the car down. Typically I do it in anticipation of making a turn, entering a parking lot, spirited driving, etc.

    I'm no mechanical expert but I can only assume it adds additional wear to the clutch simply because you are increasing its use outside of shifting gears. That being said, if you are rev matching/doing it right, I don't think its harmful.
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP brakes/intake/strut bar/shifter, Coby wraps interior, BBS CHs, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,033
    In normal driving, you wear a clutch by introducing heat, which mainly happens when it's slipping. Otherwise clutch wear is super negligible. Engine wear is also super negligible. Engine braking is a normal function of the engine; it's designed to withstand it.

    Do whatever works for you.

    I slow down by downshifting only when I know for a fact I won't have to stop, such as when I know the light is going to turn green by the time I get there. If I'm definitely going to stop then I use the brakes.

    Sent from my SM-S901U1 using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    344
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    Engine braking is mostly useful in the snow, when I'm just daily driving in normal conditions I usually switch to neutral and use brakes to slow down before a light or corner. Keeps the pads up to temp as well that way.
    Pads up to temp while the braking is happening or overall in the life of the car (which doesnt make sense to me)....
    Seems like optimal temp only matters if you are anticipating hard braking like downhill racing and you are prepping the temp for the hard braking corner for slightly better performance but then anything more it can also overheat so......
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach County, FL
    Posts
    344
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    In normal driving, you wear a clutch by introducing heat, which mainly happens when it's slipping. Otherwise clutch wear is super negligible. Engine wear is also super negligible. Engine braking is a normal function of the engine; it's designed to withstand it.

    Do whatever works for you.

    I slow down by downshifting only when I know for a fact I won't have to stop, such as when I know the light is going to turn green by the time I get there. If I'm definitely going to stop then I use the brakes.

    Sent from my SM-S901U1 using Tapatalk
    Pretty much exactly my thinking, thanks!
    __________________________________________________ ____
    2003 ZHP 4dr | 145,000 miles (ACTUAL before RIP) | BBS 17"
    Hankook Ventus V12
    Front: 225/45ZR
    Rear: 255/40ZR-17 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 XL
    [ Staggered on square (17x8.5 +38) ]

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    806
    Quote Originally Posted by Dathaeus View Post
    Pads up to temp while the braking is happening or overall in the life of the car (which doesnt make sense to me)....
    Seems like optimal temp only matters if you are anticipating hard braking like downhill racing and you are prepping the temp for the hard braking corner for slightly better performance but then anything more it can also overheat so......
    Up to temp for the drive of course. Temp matters because they won't bite if they are cold. Overheating is not an issue. Underheating is though.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  9. #9
    I've always engine braked in my prior e46 for 15 years. She happily went 250k miles with the original clutch and still drives strong. One thing to consider - rev matching every single gear on the way down is a bit excessive unless you're having fun on a spirited drive. If I'm driving casually I can usually role to an almost stop with just one downshift, maybe two.

    Our cars will happily decelerate down to that last 10-15mph in 3rd gear, so if you are driving at any speed, you can easily stay in top gear until 40ish miles an hour, downshift to 3rd, then engage the clutch and use the brakes to stop once your RPMs hit idle speed. Rowing every single gear on the say down is a bit much for daily driving. 2nd gear has its uses as well but if I'm driving fast enough, I usually downshift to 3rd at the right time and then let it be from there.

  10. #10
    If you engine brake, your ECU shuts off the injectors saving gas. You can see it on the needle as it goes to infinity mpg.

    That said, brakes cost less than engines, but in this case I really don't think it matters.
    Everybody loves Fried Chicken

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