I got the posts separately from Amazon. They are cheap.
I got the posts separately from Amazon. They are cheap.
330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT
I got the orange battery symbol on my e93 after turning it off this morning.
I have no cables or software to code the battery and register it, that is problem #1.
I might not need to code a new battery if I get the exact match to the one I have in terms of CCA, AmpH, and size (i think it is an H8 in the convertible) and I can find it in the non-AGM version.
When the time comes, I hope I can replace it and then drive it to indy to register the new battery.
325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump
328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
It is sounding like something might be wrong with your car. What you describe sounds like something is wonky with your electrical system, because it's extremely unusual to have that many bad batteries in a row. Are you sure your alternator is up to scratch and don't have power drain issues? Battery registration is done every time the battery is replaced, BUT coding may be required if you change the amperage or the type of battery (such as going from lead-acid to AGM or vice versa). Yes, unfortunately the battery amperage/type is hard coded to the VO. So, if you replace with the same exact amperage and type, then VO coding won't be necessary and you can get away with just registration.
I've had a spare laptop I've been wanting to set up as a spare programming station, just never got around to having the disposable cash to get it set up with a drive large enough storage drive for ALL of the software I want to put on it. But, registration and coding for battery type/amperage doesn't require the large software, so what I can do for you is install the bare minimum to accomplish those tasks, ship you the laptop and cable, and do it remotely after you replace the battery. Ship it back when you're done, just pay shipping both ways. Work for you?
It may be worth asking the Indy how much it would cost for them to just do it; if it's cheap enough, it may be worth doing that since shipping is expensive. If it's a lot then let me know if this is what you want to do.
Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk
Thank you soooo much for the offer BP!
The car stopped bitching about the battery shortly after I posted the post. It was about -6F for 3-4 days while the car just sat there when I went overseas, so it could be that this was the issue that made the battery bark at me. It was ~55-60F when I started it for the first time after I came back so I didn't think the cod could have been the culprit, but perhaps it was because I have been good and trouble free since I started driving the car everyday back to work.
Let me call the indy and see how much to register and we'll take it from there.
Again, I really appreciate the offer, and will get back to you.
325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump
328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
Don't want to highjack Fried_Chicken's thread, but I learned from my Indy that the battery registration would be free! Thanks again so very much BP.
I love your helping hand and might reach our to you via PM if I need some coding need!
325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump
328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
Fried chicken, you have something wrong with your car. I have AGM batteries in the zhp, e38 and e39. Zhp battery came in the car when I bought it in 2018. Still going. My wife's E39 battery is from 2014. I just replaced the AGM in my E38 last year. But the new one kept dying after a few days. I found my Bluetooth TCU was causing a battery drain. Then even after fixing that, it would keep dying... Every time the store would charge it the machine would say it was ok. That's because the float charge helps long enough to cover up the bad cell that it had. Once I swapped for a new one and had the drain fixed, it's been rock solid.
I will NEVER use a flooded battery again. I have lost count of the number of times I had them and they leaked all over the trunk despite being hooked up to the vent. They make them so cheap now, they all leak at some point between the body and top. I'd rather spend more on the battery than corrode my car.
With everything off and the car in sleep (leave the doors open and turn off interior lights), take a voltmeter and measure for a voltage drop across each fuse. The first one you find with a measurable drop is the circuit with your drain. Could even be your alternator.
'04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 111k
'98 740il | Schwartz 2 | Sandbeige | 5AT | 238k | lowered on Bilsteins w/ B&G springs
'00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 120k
'85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 215k | one owner, all original