Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    681

    Priority Replacements

    Hi,

    I need some advice/suggestions. My car is a 2003 ZHP with 61,xxx miles. It is in really good shape and the previous owner had all the work done at the dealer. I took my ZHP into an indy BMW mechanic today for an inspection (similar to the inspection II) and he recommended the following:

    Flushing the steering fluid

    Replacing all engine belts

    Gear-lube service based on mileage

    Flush Brake fluid due to high moisture content

    Decarbonization at next ignition tuneup

    VANOS seal update

    Replace the fuel filter.

    In what order would you replace these items if you didn't have a whole lot of money right now. What is most important? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,120
    Are you planning to DIY? Many of those items are pretty basic, straightforward, & not terribly expensive. Are you noticing any problems with the items mentioned? Noises, vibrations, rough running, etc.? If not, then you probably have time to take care of them in whatever order you want. As far as severity, though, I'd start with the brake fluid. +$0.02

    Travis | ’04 ZHP sedan 6MT | WeĭssLĭcht AEs | BMW clears | Plasti-Dipped grilles | BMW Perf. intake | TMS Power Pulleys | DIY aux-in | !CDV
    Sprint Booster w/Sport button | Mich PS AS4 (245 sq) | M3 front sway | Z4M LCABs | Beisan VANOS rebuild | GAS DISA rebuild | BMW diag. PC

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    This is the order I would do them in:


    1. Flush Brake fluid due to high moisture content (safety first)
    2. Replacing all engine belts (could potentially leave you stranded)
    3. Replace the fuel filter (could potentially leave you stranded, or with a car not running well)
    4. Flushing the steering fluid (is there anything wrong with it?)
    5. VANOS seal update (let's face it, it's just not that important to get priority)
    6. Gear-lube service based on mileage
    7. Decarbonization at next ignition tuneup -- I don't understand this. Can't you decarbonize with a hard run, like a nice spirited drive through backroads? Why pay someone to do this??
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    822

    about them pulleys...and a few other items

    I agree with Post #3 above and can add a few bits of info.

    Along with the belts, absolutely do not neglect to replace the 2 pulleys on the serpentine belt. I just replaced those 2 weeks ago @ 63k miles, yet should have done so 20k mis ago. They were totally shot. Just days later, a family member's E46 325i @ 68k mis had the idler pulley seize up and break off while driving in a rural area (of course). The serpentine belt broke and immediately the car had no power steering, alternator power, and last but not least, zero coolant flow. Collateral damage in this case, probably when the belt broke, was a damaged tensioner pulley (which otherwise would only have needed the $30 pulley replaced and not the whole unit).

    A good maintenance/DIY reference can be found here:

    http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...e-Issues-DIY-s

    Re pulleys, see item #16 on the page above and link to e46fanatics thread. Read "PART FOUR" within that post to see what happened in his particular case. His idler pulley failed at 56k mis. Resulting belt breakage damaged his water pump pulley.

    There is also a tensioner on the a/c belt. Autozone sells a Duralast pulley which can be used there instead of replacing the entire tensioner unit.

    At your mileage, it is advisable to do preventive cooling system replacement. You will want to do these items while the fan is out and the belts are off. This could arguably be Priority #1, given the known E46 failure points and that we are heading into summer weather.

    I have a comprehensive list of cooling system replacement parts with part numbers, options for where to source, and links to more info. It's pretty much written as a note to self but I recently cleaned it up a bit after a couple other E46 owners asked for it. PM me if you want to see it. There are about 15 parts involved, the most expensive of which being the BMW-only heater/water valve ($65 from Tischer BMW). The rest can be purchased as aftermarket and or OEM parts.

    As for decarbonization, use good gas with fuel injector cleaner (BMW recommends Techron by name, which is in Chevron & Texaco fuel). You might also buy some Lubro Moly Jectron and Valve Cleaner/Ventil Sauber, which you can get at bavauto.com. There is mention of this for carbon deposit reduction in the first Q&A letter in the Spring 2011 edition of their Fast Times newsletter (www.bavauto.com/newsletter/).

    Bavauto also has good prices on lubricants. The Lubro Moly 0W-40 motor oil, when purchased in a 5-liter bottle plus 2 add'l liter bottles, costs about what I was paying for Mobil 1 0W-40 at Wal Mart. The Lubro Moly, however, is much better oil. They also sell Redline synthetic MTL oil for your tranny & gear oil for the diff.

    I replaced the OE manual trans oil with Redline this past weekend. Easy to do (8mm hex socket for the plugs), possibly made even easier/quicker because I seem to be missing a plastic splash shield to the rear of the aluminum skid plate (?).

    As for the power steering, again see page referenced above, item #22. Be sure to replace the reservoir, integrated into which is the filter. It's cheap.

    I also just replaced the fuel filter, which is a little pricey (Mahle ~ $55 @ PelicanParts) due to integrated fuel pressure regulator. The only thing I'd do differently here next time is to clamp the lines and/or catch the spilled fuel into a clean container so that I could put back into the gas tank. Very sad face watching that drain out, altho probably less than half a gallon lost.

    Note: once fuel filter is replaced, run the fuel pump a few times before you start the engine. I did this at a local shop's open house DIY arranged by the local BMW club chapter. One of their mechanics later went to move my car out of the shop and, not realizing I had replaced the fuel filter, did not prime the line and ended up setting off the check engine light. They cleared the code, no big deal but beware if you do this at home.

    Next on my own list is a DIY on the VANOS. I plan to send mine to Dr.Vanos for rehabilitation and then use the PDF instructions on his site to do the job. It is also recommended to do spark plugs and valve cover gasket at this time, as it would otherwise be duplication of a fair amount of labor but it's nothing difficult.

    The good news is you can truly do all of this, and much more, yourself. There are online DIY articles with pics & video for just about everything.
    Last edited by aurelius; 04-20-2011 at 06:58 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    I swear I already answered this. I must be going crazies!!!!
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    681
    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    I swear I already answered this. I must be going crazies!!!!
    No you're not. I also posted it on BMWMafia.com. No worries.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Autozone.com
    Ahhh...that's why.

    This is what I said at the sister forum...to allow for continuity.

    My comments in BOLD.

    My priority would be below probably.

    1. Replacing all engine belts & Pulleys. This should be your number one priority.

    2. Flushing the steering fluid. I would do this next....TB method....should be fine.

    2. Gear-lube service based on mileage. Tied with the above imho.

    3. Flush brake fluid due to high moisture content. Brake are obviously very important. Really this runs close to second.

    4. VANOS seal update

    5. Replace the fuel filter.

    6. Decarbonization at next ignition tuneup. Seafoam?

    ***TB = Turkey Baster.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Follow on question.

    When was transmission fluid changed and/or plugs?
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

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