Suspension Installation Difficulty?

[Mtnman]

I have an H and R cup kit coming in friday. Ive never done suspension before, and was wondering the difficulty level of this from some of you that have. This is my Daily Driver, so if I start this project, I have to finish it this weekend. Besides that, I have to drive to VA next friday and meet all you fools! Any advice is welcome. Oh, Cup kit consists of springs, shocks, and struts btw.

[danewilson77]

I got you. I would say 5/10.

2/10.....cuz I'm in your hip pocket.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

[spencers]

After completing a dampener swap this weekend, I will say that it's easy as hell (for you) since you don't have to remove the springs from the front struts!

Hardest part with the rear shocks is moving the carpeting out of the way.
Hardest part with the front struts is getting the damn strut assemblies out of the knuckle. Tip: Turn the steering wheel to full lock to the direction of the side you're working on.

[Mtnman]

Yeah, but i still gotta put new springs on new struts, I believe....

[kpro]

...call me if you need anything at all

I've looked on google and there are many different approaches to doing this job, was trying to find you a link. Which ever way you do this, please dont take your calipers off like some of these write ups tell you too. Just get a bucket or milk crate and set the rotor assembly on it if you don't want to hold it up or hang down. I can walk you through it.

[Mtnman]

Have picked up spring compression kit from Advanced Auto. Price to loan: 49.95. When it gets returned, I get back.........49.95. I think i like this deal. Looks like we are a go.

[bcleaver]

What's the most difficult thing you've DIY'd and I'll tell you how hard this is --it's all relative. However, I would rate this about 2 notches harder than changing your oil. Taking your time and doing it right will probably take you 5-6 hours the first time being very methodical. I used these instructions from member Murph and they worked great:

Front:
- jack up front, get it on jackstands
- yank the wheels
- disconnect the endlinks on the strut end
- place a jack under the steering knuckle
- unbolt the big lower bolt (18mm)
- lower the jack, hopefully the knuckle just drops, if it doesn't, pry apart the two pieces of the knuckle that were held with the bolt and bang on the knuckle with a hammer. =]
- raise the jack back up, maybe not quite all the way
- unscrew the top nuts (13mm)
- hopefully at this point you can lower the jack and hopefully get the strut out from underneath the front fender. If this is difficult, try turning the steering wheel opposite of the side you're working on.
- put the new strut in, there should be a lot more room to get the new one under the fender
- jack up the jack on the knuckle and guide the top nuts through the holes, I like to work with a friend or work the jack handle with my leg for this.
- screw in the top nuts (don't need to be ridiculously tight)
- screw in the lower bolt (does need to be pretty darn tight)
- adjust/connect the swaybar endlinks
- put the wheels back on



Rear:
- jack up the rear, get it on jackstands
- make sure the e-brake is not pulled!
- yank the wheels
- unbolt the lower shock bolt (18mm)
- push down on the wheel hub to uncompress the spring
- yank, pry, swear, do what you need to do, the spring will come out
- pull back the trunk carpet (I cut holes in it to allow easy access to the adjuster)
- unbolt the top shock nuts, have a friend catch them or try to do it yourself
- bolt the new shocks in on top
- insert the spring & rear height adjuster
- jack on the knuckle where the lower shock bolt bolts up until it lines up to re-thread that lower bolt
- make sure the spring/perch stay aligned with the nub in the body as you jack it up
- put the wheels back on, you're done!

If your newer suspension is lower than the old one you won't need a spring compressor to get the top mount back on the strut. Good luck!

[danewilson77]

What's the most difficult thing you've DIY'd and I'll tell you how hard this is --it's all relative. However, I would rate this about 2 notches harder than changing your oil. Taking your time and doing it right will probably take you 5-6 hours the first time being very methodical. I used these instructions from member Murph and they worked great:

Front:
- jack up front, get it on jackstands
- yank the wheels
- disconnect the endlinks on the strut end



- place a jack under the steering knuckle
- unbolt the big lower bolt (18mm)
- lower the jack, hopefully the knuckle just drops, if it doesn't, pry apart the two pieces of the knuckle that were held with the bolt and bang on the knuckle with a hammer. =]
- raise the jack back up, maybe not quite all the way
- unscrew the top nuts (13mm)
- hopefully at this point you can lower the jack and hopefully get the strut out from underneath the front fender. If this is difficult, try turning the steering wheel opposite of the side you're working on.
- put the new strut in, there should be a lot more room to get the new one under the fender
- jack up the jack on the knuckle and guide the top nuts through the holes, I like to work with a friend or work the jack handle with my leg for this.
- screw in the top nuts (don't need to be ridiculously tight)
- screw in the lower bolt (does need to be pretty darn tight)
- adjust/connect the swaybar endlinks
- put the wheels back on



Rear:
- jack up the rear, get it on jackstands
- make sure the e-brake is not pulled!
- yank the wheels
- unbolt the lower shock bolt (18mm)

***Here, I like to put a jack under the control arm, and slowly lower the CA down. Otherwise...spring tension "shoots" it down.

- push down on the wheel hub to uncompress the spring
- yank, pry, swear, do what you need to do, the spring will come out

***Here...i actually like to use the oem jack. Place it forward of the hub, between the CA and the body...and start jacking. It will slowly spread and push the CA down....enough for you to get spring out. The best use I have found for this jack.

- pull back the trunk carpet (I cut holes in it to allow easy access to the adjuster)
- unbolt the top shock nuts, have a friend catch them or try to do it yourself. Telescoping magnet is a good safety here.



- bolt the new shocks in on top
- insert the spring & rear height adjuster
- jack on the knuckle where the lower shock bolt bolts up until it lines up to re-thread that lower bolt
- make sure the spring/perch stay aligned with the nub in the body as you jack it up
- put the wheels back on, you're done!

If your newer suspension is lower than the old one you won't need a spring compressor to get the top mount back on the strut. Good luck!

My $0.02 in BOLD

[danewilson77]

This diy may help as well...

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...5-Coilover-Diy

[static667]

I did shocks and struts in my e36. I thought the job was pretty straight forward and easy. Only took about 6 hours. Could have been quicker but my friend and I were in no real hurry.