I would never use it as a lift point, but I think it's acceptable as a safety point.Originally Posted by ELCID86
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Capo di tutti capi
I would never use it as a lift point, but I think it's acceptable as a safety point.
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Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
Enforcer
Maybe its just because I'm a really skinny 21 year old but I have always found the ramps to provide plenty of room for oil changes. I have the RhinoRamp Max. Only issue I find is that the bumper rubs on the ramps unless I put a small 1x4 or something on the ground right in front of where the ramp starts to incline. Sure beats other car manufactures where you have to try and snake your arm somewhere to get the oil filter out..lol
05 Jet Black with NB 6MT ZHP: Current
05 Alpine White with Beige Auto ZHP: Sold
04 Alpine White with Grey Auto 325xi: RIP
Messaggero
The reviews scared me away from Rhinoramps.
Enforcer
Any thoughts on an alternate location for the rear jack points? My LR jack point collapsed in due to rust (which I need to fix before the rust spreads any further) so I've been using the rear pumpkin, which I find less than ideal (harder to access and not as stable.)
Does the frame rail highlighted in green in that photo also provide a good surface to jack near the back?
Capo di tutti capi
I imagine it would be fine but I've never used it.
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Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
Campieri
No, the frame rail does not extend all the way to the rear of the car. Only lift the rear from the jack pad on either side or the diff carrier from directly in the back of the car
Campieri
I don't ever use the red square, it's not strong enough. The reinforcing plate is made of aluminum and will likely deform when used as a jacking point
I wouldn't recommend using the "red" point.....but the "green" point there is right on the frame.
You should never....ever..need to use these alternate jack points however.
Always.....jack up one side of your car using the "rear" jack point. Put a jack stand under the front jack point (yellow). Then...on the other side.....jack the car up using the front jack point (yellow)......and slide a jackstand under the green or red area......and then relax the jack.....until it just touches.
HTC Thunderbolt+TT
Big Earner
I use the red circle all the time to lift up the front to get a jack stand under the front pads. No issues at all.
I would rather have a quickjack of course. One day!
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- Marc
Capo
Red circle ⭕️ ?
Messaggero
Here’s what I do:
Jack up the car at the rear jacking pad and place a jack stand up front. Go around to the other side and repeat.
Here’s what I WANT to do:
I want to get all four wheels up off the ground. I was thinking of doing the process above and then using the rear diff to get the back of the car up to get a second set of jack stands under the rear jacking points.
Thoughts on this?
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