Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
Travis | ’04 ZHP sedan 6MT | WeĭssLĭcht AEs | BMW clears | Plasti-Dipped grilles | BMW Perf. intake | TMS Power Pulleys | DIY aux-in | !CDV
Sprint Booster w/Sport button | Mich PS AS4 (245 sq) | M3 front sway | Z4M LCABs | Beisan VANOS rebuild | GAS DISA rebuild | BMW diag. PC
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No... Not exactly.
I use aft yellow point to jack high.... Then place a stand under forward yellow point.... Then lower jack.
Move jack to other side. Jack up using front yellow point, and put stand under green point.
I slightly lower jack now.... Just to lightly place it on stand, and leave jack where it is.
HTC Thunderbolt+TT
Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
Awesome thread.
My 2 cents, I would not jack on anything made of aluminum. Period.
I like the Rhino ramp idea if only to have that extra layer of protection in case of a slip.
Changed my oil last weekend and had to jack up the car for the first time. Here's what I did:
Drove the front 2 wheels of the car up on (2) 2x4 pieces of wood so that I could get my jack under the front of the car (I have ramps, and no way to get the car on them, too low)
Jacked from the aluminum square mentioned 2 pages previously.
Placed steel jack stands under the 2 green jack stand pad locations.
Put 2 wheel chaulks behind the rear wheels.
Shook the car a few times to make sure it was solid before getting under the car.
Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
I bought a set of Rhino ramps last weekend. Tried this method with the 2x8s to get up onto the ramps. Did not work because the ramps began sliding forward. I guess my garage floor is too slippery. I got a plan to mod the ramps with 2x8s that will brace against the front wall of the garage. Either that or put the ramps on a non-skid rubber mat.
I ended up jacking the car by using my floor jack on the green frame areas and jackstands on the yellow areas. I raised in two stages.
While under there (for the first time) I note a few things:
Cutout in aluminum shield is for draining the motor oil. Why is that little door always missing?
Oil drain plug is in side ways (wierd) and looks to be awkward to work with.
Does the car really need the aluminum shield?
I do have a GM step tranny (good) but could not determine which model.