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Thread: Camber Plates

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Cleveland/Dayton
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    2,620

    Camber Plates

    As the title says. I'm considering doing this as one of my next upgrades.

    http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=150

    Talking to fellow Z4M owners, dialing out the front camber really helps eliminate virtually all understeer. And with new tires, I want none at all...I HATE understeer.

    I only have a couple concerns. One being what will my camber setting for DD when these are set to 0. Will it be too much for DDing and will I get too much wear on my DD tires?

    I know this will put me to BSP, I'm not too concerned with it.

    Anything is helpful, thanks


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Denver, CO
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    Hey Monkey, when you say 'set to 0' are you talking about 0 degrees of camber? Also, how many miles a year are you DDing? I used to run -2.5 deg on my DD with a 'track' setup and didn't notice much wear, although I only put about 16k on the car a year.

  3. #3
    Do it.

  4. #4
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    What are the OEM specs on F&R camber for the Z4M?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcleaver View Post
    Hey Monkey, when you say 'set to 0' are you talking about 0 degrees of camber? Also, how many miles a year are you DDing? I used to run -2.5 deg on my DD with a 'track' setup and didn't notice much wear, although I only put about 16k on the car a year.
    Sorry, That's something I should of clarified.

    I was thinking when the camber plates are at "0", I'd be at stock spec on camber. Then say I want to dial it out -2, just add -2 on the camber plates...
    Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, would you set the camber plate to (say stock spec is -1) to -1 and then dial it out accordingly?

    This year I put 8,000 miles on the car. But probably next year it will be more.

    The only problem I've been reading is that with camber plates, dialing the camber in and out won't always be accurate and it will never be the same. Alot of people were telling me to just get camber plates, and dial it in and leave it. Would adjusting the camber in and out back and forth to stock specs be always off and inconsistent?

    Quote Originally Posted by mimalmo View Post
    What are the OEM specs on F&R camber for the Z4M?
    I'd gotta look that info up for you. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head.

    To eliminate all understeer from the front and give the car a full oversteer nature requires -3-> -3.5* of front camber. If I'm going to get camber plates I'm going to max them out, go big or go home. I'd hate to get camber plates and just "compromise" to -2 because understeer will still be present.

    I was thinking of getting unlimited tire alignment somewhere and just adjusting the specs prior and afterwards. I'll be mounting my RS3s day before the event and driving there...so at that point I can afford to drive on that camber.

    I'm really afraid driving on -3-3.5 camber will chew the living crap out of my tires


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

  6. #6
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    AFAIK, when you install camber plates, 0 degrees is 0 degrees and 2 degrees is 2 degrees, not 2 degrees from OEM spec.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Denver, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0nk3y View Post
    Sorry, That's something I should of clarified.

    I was thinking when the camber plates are at "0", I'd be at stock spec on camber. Then say I want to dial it out -2, just add -2 on the camber plates...
    Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, would you set the camber plate to (say stock spec is -1) to -1 and then dial it out accordingly?

    This year I put 8,000 miles on the car. But probably next year it will be more.

    The only problem I've been reading is that with camber plates, dialing the camber in and out won't always be accurate and it will never be the same. Alot of people were telling me to just get camber plates, and dial it in and leave it. Would adjusting the camber in and out back and forth to stock specs be always off and inconsistent?



    I'd gotta look that info up for you. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head.

    To eliminate all understeer from the front and give the car a full oversteer nature requires -3-> -3.5* of front camber. If I'm going to get camber plates I'm going to max them out, go big or go home. I'd hate to get camber plates and just "compromise" to -2 because understeer will still be present.

    I was thinking of getting unlimited tire alignment somewhere and just adjusting the specs prior and afterwards. I'll be mounting my RS3s day before the event and driving there...so at that point I can afford to drive on that camber.

    I'm really afraid driving on -3-3.5 camber will chew the living crap out of my tires
    At 8k a year even running -3 to -3.5 deg will not destroy your tires. They will wear a little prematuraly on the inside, but from my experience it will be negligible. Going back and forth from a 'street' setup to a 'track' setup is totally doable as well. I've seen and done it many times, and it can be done with very good accuracy. The one thing to note though, is if you only adjust camber it will affect your toe. So your options are:

    1. only adjust camber and be ok running toe that's not 'ideal' with either your street or track setup (can probably set to toe in for DD and when you add neg camber it will toe out (assuming where your tie rods connect to your hub here)). Not ideal, but if you get a 'track' alignment, moving your camber back to stock will probably not move your toe out enough to create issues while daily driving.

    2. go to the shop during the alignment and have them do a 'track' setup and mark the location on your tire rods and your camber. Then have them adjust to a 'street' setup and mark those as well. Then just move them to their 'track' marks when racing and adjust to the 'street' setup when you're done. It's ususally just a few turns of the tie rod and a quick adjustment at the camber plates. No more than 15 min. tops each time you want to adjust.
    Last edited by bcleaver; 10-10-2011 at 08:34 AM. Reason: changed toe impact with camber adjustments to reflect the car in question

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    When you add neg camber you add Toe out. I'm going to set my DD to alittle toe-in, not too much but enough for it to work.

    Good idea on the alignment shop. I got a guy I always take it too where they can do it for me.

    As well, I don't want to pre-mature wear on the tires. They are expensive enough and the fact that I have a whole set of wheels for autocross and track make them that more expensive to replace tires


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    82
    Now that I'm at -4.0 on my DD, I actually change camber before/after events. (if I'm not being lazy) It moves from a bit of toe-out for autocross to a bit of toe-in on the street, which is great.

  10. #10
    TIRERACK.com - Revolutionizing Tire Buying
    when you add negative camber with the plates, your toe goes out.

    Install the plates and go get an alignement:
    1. Set the camber at whatever setting you want for the street (-1.5 to 2 degrees)
    2. Set the toe at Zero or very slighlty in.
    3. Mark the camber plate location for this setting.

    4. Have the tech set the camber at -3.5 (or whatever you like better) and verify how much toe out you now have (should be about 1/8).
    5. Mark the plates

    Now when you go to the track all you have to do is adjust your camber to marked settings and you are good to go.

    You can call Vorshlag for more accurate numbers on toe and camber, they know their stuff really well.

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