Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #61
    Anyone have a trick to installing these once the fcab is already seated to the arm? I installed these z4m fcabs on a friend's zhp about a month ago and remember it being royal hell to get the fcab to line up with the frame rail bolt holes because the solid hex has minimal flex. Had to use a combination of a large prybar, lowering the strut from the tower, and then had to pivot the knuckle with a jack to just the right angle to get the holes to line up. Then had to insert a screw driver into one of the frame holes while threading a bolt into the other hole.

    I am changing control arms on my zhp thursday night and this wont be my first rodeo on an e46 since I did my m3 years ago, but I dont have offset fcabs on that car so the fcabs are effortless to mount to the chassis in comparison.

    Curious if anyone has a more ideal method than what I came up with for these offset fcabs? Or is it just a hell of a task regardless?

    Thinking I may start the fcab bolts before getting the new arm balljoints completely snug since the ball joints take up any of the slack anyways to prevent binding, but off the top of my head, I can recall if there will be enough room for this method?
    2005 E46 330i ZHP Imola Red/Sand
    2003 E46 M3 TiAg/Cinnamon


  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,712
    That should work fine. I did both methods on my car. for one side, I put the bushing on the arm first. Then I did the center ball joint one that you have to use the wrench the whole time. Then did the fcab side and followed up with the one on the knuckle. But if you weren't replacing the arm, then just lube up the arm/fcab (I used ONR). After you hammer it, you can still twist it some because it has some lube and thread the 2 bolts in.

    This one time it was seated in wrong on the arm. It was quicker to just pull it back off, lube it and hammer it back on lol

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