Dealing with iced windows

[zj96sc]

The best course of action is to drive with varying load and RPM but keep the RPMs as low as possible. On my diesel 7.3 i try not to get over 1750 or so until I cross the first hash mark on my temp gauge, but that's also a 3K redline

Just keep the RPMs low.

[AzkotikBMW]

Well that should work perfectly for me. I have a 50 mile commute to work everyday, the first 10 miles of it being 25-35mph zones, and then 55mph the rest of the way. Should give the engine perfect amount of time to warm up as it should. Thanks for the good info guys! (And sorry for misleading you with my misinformed information Hokie!)

[zj96sc]

everything i can find about a remote start for an E46 sounds like you either need to have EWS disabled or have a key stay in the car combined with a bypass unit. don't really like either of those options.

scratch part 1, sounds like the last DME that could have EWS disabled was the E36.

[AzkotikBMW]

everything i can find about a remote start for an E46 sounds like you either need to have EWS disabled or have a key stay in the car combined with a bypass unit. don't really like either of those options.

+1

There goes that idea!

[llll1l1ll]

I'd say just bundle up, get out there, start scraping, start and let engine sit for maybe one minute maximum, and then get on your way. I used to let my E30 idle for about a minute and a half in cold weather, but that's because it was an elderly vehicle. She needed a little help getting up.

So long as the engine is stable with proper oil pressure, you should be good to go.

[cakM3]

In the winter I ALWAYS go start my car 10-15 minutes before I want to leave. I crank the heat to full, hit both the front and rear defrost, then go back inside for awhile. When I get back outside, I scrape off any remaining ice/snow from the windshield, and rest of the windows with a scraper/brush combo. DO NOT use it on the paint or you will most definitely scratch it. Also in weather below freezing it is much better for you engine to completely warm up before you start driving.

+1

At a minimum I do this but if I have more time I usually allow my car to warm up for about 1/2 hour and then all the windows are warmed sufficiently that there's no ice on my windows....the point is to allow the car to warm up sufficiently before driving it.

[Washburn]

Hokie - I am in NC too..

I use de-icer spray and defroster at the same time, and try to avoid scraping as much as possible.
Some de-icer sprays also have preventive function, so you can spray it the night before, and it will actually prevent frost/ice from forming to a pretty goodextent, IMO - i was impressed by it.

It won't kill the car to idle it about 5 min's. sometimes you just have to run the deforoster that long to get the w/shield clear - better than driving with a foggy windshield and getting into an accident! (btw, I think the BMW defroster fuction is lame and slow- my Tbird can defrost so much faster for some reason)

BMW clearly states NOT to warm up and you should drive off immediately at a slow pace - i will NEVER let a car idle for more than 10 min's.

That said, Although i know we're not supposed to idle at all and should "drive off immediately at a low speed", it's just hard for me to do - knowing full well that the engine is ice cold and oil may not be still flowing fully in the 1st 2-3 seconds, etc...so I try compromise and let it warm up only about 5 mins. (10 min max).

[AzkotikBMW]

Ha, so now I have someone agreeing with my first thought, after I've been convinced it's better to run the engine from a cold start. Anyone have solid mechanical evidence/advice for this subject? Mr Paul did bring up the case where "Idling your car for extended periods of time can cause unburned fuel to wash down into your crankcrase, thereby diluting your oil with gasoline." Can anyone else chime in?

[HokieZHP]

Washburn, which spray do you have that prevents ice build up?


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[Washburn]

Damn - I've forgotten the name -(it might be Prestone) let me do a search and will let you know - I bought it at Advanced auto parts in Dunn, I think...or perhaps it was in Raleigh when i went out one night -
will def. post here or PM you - I need to start buying the stuff again, anyway.