Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Cleveland/Dayton
    Posts
    2,620
    Quote Originally Posted by AzkotikBMW View Post
    Ha, so now I have someone agreeing with my first thought, after I've been convinced it's better to run the engine from a cold start. Anyone have solid mechanical evidence/advice for this subject? Mr Paul did bring up the case where "Idling your car for extended periods of time can cause unburned fuel to wash down into your crankcrase, thereby diluting your oil with gasoline." Can anyone else chime in?
    I'll put my .02 cents here:

    1. BMW manual STATES, start the car and drive it, regardless of conditions.
    2. If you let the car warm up, yes your engine will get to temp, but the transmission and other components will NOT, because they are just sitting there....Not all parts of the car will equally heat-up, like they would when you would just drive it. So, thinking that the car is "warm" when it really isn't, can cause some problems with shortened lifespan.

    From my view now;

    When I had my E46 for the 4 years, all 4 years I worked at a ski-resort. I would have to work late shifts (usually to 10pm or even 1am depending on the day) and the car would be sitting outside for the whole time. I worked once when the temp was -15 degrees, average.

    Everytime, I brushed off the car, started it and drove away instantly. Never had anything go wrong


    Project STX: TCKline Racing l APEX l Vorshlag l Eibach l Hawk l Schroth l BMW Performance

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts
    193
    Yea Monkey...that seems to be the general consensus here. I'll probably start doing that instead.
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

  3. #23

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Fayetteville, NC
    Posts
    1,783
    Hokie ; This is it: available most places:

    2005 AW ZHP Coupe. CW, Alcantara, Leather st. wheel, HK, Xenons, Step, Dinan chip & air box, USASpec, Sprint Booster


  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts
    193
    That stuff looks like a good idea! I'm going to be picking some up to keep my windows as "free of ice" as possible!
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,292
    I'll be picking that up after class. Thanks washburn!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    -Chris-

    2003 ZHP Sedan - Jet Black on Sand - SOLD

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Fayetteville, NC
    Posts
    1,783
    No prob.
    Are you at UNC? what are you studying? (sorry if i had already asked this in the past)
    2005 AW ZHP Coupe. CW, Alcantara, Leather st. wheel, HK, Xenons, Step, Dinan chip & air box, USASpec, Sprint Booster


  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    A,GA
    Posts
    994
    There are a whole cadre of issues with letting the engine warm up by idling. One mentioned here (fuel into the crankcase), the other that the engine isn't THAT hot while idling. Continually running at low temps/zero load means the engine doesn't have to work hard and causes carbon buildup. I would never let my engine idle for 30 minutes.

    In diesels because there is actually no spark, EGTs dip very very low and you start having a problem with unburned fuel getting into the exhaust and causing "wet stacking." This is why most big diesels have some form of extended idle feature - either a high idle to raise EGTs that way, or a certain # of cylinders cut fuel to make the remaining ones work much harder to idle and therefore raise the EGTs that way.

    The proper way to do it is ensure you have a correctly weighted oil for your operating temps, give the engine a few moments to wake itself up, and head on your way and keep the RPMs as low as you can until full op temp is reached.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,292
    Quote Originally Posted by Washburn View Post
    No prob.
    Are you at UNC? what are you studying? (sorry if i had already asked this in the past)
    No, I live in Chapel Hill but I go to Virginia Tech, studying Mechanical Engineering. So the winters up here are quite a bit colder up here than in Chapel Hill.
    -Chris-

    2003 ZHP Sedan - Jet Black on Sand - SOLD

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    2,378
    my (smartass) solutuion: live in texas. we have ice maybe once a year.

    --Wes--

    04 330i ZHP Oxford Green/Natural Brown
    04 330Ci ZHP Silvergrey/Alcantara (RIP)

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