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Thread: MT work?

  1. #1

    MT work?

    My car has 164k on it, never had a new clutch or any MT work done. Figured i'm probably just counting miles until something needs to be done.
    What would I need to do (just a new clutch??) or is there more and has anyone around here done this before? I'd like to know the difficulty level, costs, any special items needed.
    maybe a good DIY somewhere.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
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    Doing the clutch yourself can be a tough job. It all depends on your mechanical ability and what kind of shop and tools you have access to.

    I'd say you could probably just swap in a new clutch. Unless you are having issues with your flywheel. Your transmission could probably just use a fluid change.

    Sent from my rooted Fascinate using Tapatalk.
    19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by static667 View Post
    Doing the clutch yourself can be a tough job. It all depends on your mechanical ability and what kind of shop and tools you have access to.

    I'd say you could probably just swap in a new clutch. Unless you are having issues with your flywheel. Your transmission could probably just use a fluid change.

    Sent from my rooted Fascinate using Tapatalk.

    Well...I've done brakes, VCG, OFH gaskets and so on. I've got tools, just probably not 'specialty tools' that might be needed for this, however....if me doing it comes out equal to or less than someone else doing it and me buying the tools. I'd rather do it myself.
    Not sure how i'd know if i was having flywheel issues.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts
    193
    I just replaced my whole clutch system (including flywheel). With our cars the most expensive part (besides labor) is the flywheel. Because our cars use a "dual mass flywheel" a brand new OEM one runs about $600-700 from a shop. If you are feeling/hearing ANY slipping of the clutch, get it into the shop and replaced IMMEDIATELY. The longer you wait after you notice slipping in the clutch, the better the chances are that you'll need to have the flywheel replaced (or at least resurfaced). You want to avoid any damage to the flywheel because not having to replace it will save you about $500-$700.

    To get my entire clutch + flywheel replaced cost $800 for labor and $700 in parts. Not a cheap job, but it needed to be done....and if you can save the wear on the flywheel you will be looking at around $1000 instead of $1500 (depending on labor costs).

    EDIT: If you want to see what you're looking at for doing it yourself, this is the best DIY that I have found on it. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...ch_Replace.htm
    Last edited by AzkotikBMW; 11-03-2011 at 07:13 AM. Reason: added link
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

  5. #5
    Doing it yourself is not that bad as long as you have access to a lift. On the ground/on your back, simply because of the difficult access to the top two tranny bell housing, is pretty tricky. The flywheels are pretty stout though, and likely only need to be replaced if you let the clutch get REALLY bad. Most of the time, just swapping the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing will do just fine, and a typical clutch "kit" comes with those items. You also might want to go ahead and replace the rear main seal as if it starts leaking oil later, you'll have to yank the trans off again.

    I had a shop replace mine with an OEM clutch kit I bought myself. I paid just under 280 for the kit (p. plate, clutch disc, and t/o bearing), and I think the shop was only going to charge me about 350-400, but I also had him do the rear main seal (I was losing a quart of oil between my 7,500 mile oil changes) and also needed a new starter. I think I paid just under 1,000 for all the mentioned work, including the purchase cost of my clutch kit.

    Edit: 265.33 for buying the clutch kit, and 744.00 for the shop (labor and cost of new starter and rear main seal). So 1009.33 for everything.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Middle River, MD
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    1,022
    Not to derail too far, but my clutch chatters a bit when it's chilly out/car is warming up. Otherwise it works like a normal clutch. Anyone have this issue? Is my clutch now deemed broken and I need a new flywheel? On a side note, when engaging the clutch slowly (e.g. parking speeds) with the car warm, I can hear the flywheel rattle a bit. Does anyone else have this?

    To answer OP's question, so long as you don't notice the clutch slipping, you should not need to replace it. When you do, fluid changes, rear main seal and flywheel examination come to mind.
    Last edited by llll1l1ll; 11-03-2011 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Legit Thread Contribution

  7. #7
    ok checked out the DIY....holy crap thats a ton to remove just to get to it :-(
    I'd only have floor stands and it's pretty much just me doing the work. Hmmmm....will definately have to think on this one. I know if i do it myself, it's going to be a PITA, but.....it will get done the right way.
    If I let my local indi do it....there is bound to be something stupid done like break a bolt and say 'oh there is plenty of others holding it all together, etc...."

    I just don't trust people working on my car. They are pushed so hard to get things out the door that they are easily distracted from MY car in the midst of their work, then they overlook something. However....as intense as this job is....I may just have to hope and pray they stay focused.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts
    193
    It is a LOT of work Scorpius, it would definitely be an entire weekend project if you were to do it all by yourself. I have found a great shop that is still relatively small, and they do great work on every car that comes through there. So I trusted them to do a great job on my car, and they did. If you can find a nice "family owned" shop like that, you shouldn't have a problem getting the work done right the first time.
    Kyle - Wisconsin Crew - 2001 BMW M3
    Supersprint Headers/Section 2 - Eisenmann Muffler - aFe Stage 2 Intake -
    Bilstien PSS9 Coilovers - VMR V710 (Gunmetal Powdercoat) - UUC EVO Short Shifter - ZHP Shift Knob

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by llll1l1ll View Post
    Not to derail too far, but my clutch chatters a bit when it's chilly out/car is warming up. Otherwise it works like a normal clutch. Anyone have this issue? Is my clutch now deemed broken and I need a new flywheel? On a side note, when engaging the clutch slowly (e.g. parking speeds) with the car warm, I can hear the flywheel rattle a bit. Does anyone else have this?

    To answer OP's question, so long as you don't notice the clutch slipping, you should not need to replace it. When you do, fluid changes, rear main seal and flywheel examination come to mind.
    This is likely just your throw out bearing/release bearing. When your foot is of the clutch pedal, this bearing for the most part is just sitting on the shaft loosely. When you press the clutch pedal, does the chattering go away? If so, then likely the bearing. However, still gotta remove the whole trans to replace just that. That was actually my initial problem, the t/o bearing was slowly falling apart, and finally it exploded on me.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Middle River, MD
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    1,022
    Autozone.com
    Yeah it only chatters when the clutch is starting to engage. With the clutch pedal down it makes no noise. However, my E30's TOB made tons and tons of noise. It was an awful rubbing/grinding sound. This is just a quiet chattering.

    FWIW, when the car is warming up, when the clutch chatters it makes the car shudder a tad.

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