Well it got really hot again in Florida and I realized that the air coming out of my driver side vents is colder than the air coming out of the passenger side.
Any one have any ideas?
Well it got really hot again in Florida and I realized that the air coming out of my driver side vents is colder than the air coming out of the passenger side.
Any one have any ideas?
That's a symptom of being low on refrigerant, iirc.
-Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing
2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded
Thanks Keith, do you know if there is any way to check it?
Or should I just find a DIY and recharge it?
I had this one bookmarked.
http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/e...-recharge.html
-Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing
2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded
Saved to my bookmarks.
Thanks for the help.
Anytime.
I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3
-Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing
2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded
About 99% of the time it is in fact due to low refrigerant. I always kind of cringe at the idea of self recharging. The A/C system is a completely sealed system, and there should never be a reason for it to lose refrigerant. So if you're low on refrigerant, you have a leak somewhere.
I've always recommended getting a proper evac and recharge from any A/C shop (no "specialist" needed, any monkey at an A/C repair shop can do this). When they recharge it, they typically will put a dye into the refrigerant as well, so if there is a leak, they can easily spot it with a U/V light, or similar. A properly equipped shop might even have a sniffer to locate the leak point too.
I was lucky, mine was leaking from one of the service ports, right by the fan on the passenger side of the engine bay. $12 bucks later from the local dealer ship, I have a new charge port and no more leaks.
I agree for the most part, but you also came out on the stratospherically low end of the professional a/c repair cost spectrum. most a/c shops here want $100 just to diagnose, and a lot of the time leaks are in the evaporation or condenser which would cost probably 1-200 TIMES more than you paid for them to fix.
For that $100 id buy a good manifold gauge set and a can of UV died refrigerant. Check your pressures and see where you stand. If it needs a little, add a little and see how long it lasts while also checking the common spots for leaks.
If it is a inhale condenser leak or similar, you could be looking at half a can every may and you're fine.
Even if it is a big leak, only pay the shop to evacuate and open the system, and then to pull it down and recharge after you fix the hard parts.
Diagnose and rectify accordingly!
I recharge my e30 a/c twice every summer, very easy.
I agree with everything you said but I think you misunderstood me. I also paid the initial $100 bucks for a full evac and recharge, the $12 was just for the charge port to be replaced, and that's only because BMW doesn't use any of the standard sized schrader valves you can typically find at auto stores for like 50 cents :/. However, you are also right about it being a leak behind the dash. I do not wish it upon anyone to have to try and pay for someone to do that as the price would be liekly enough to make you want to sell the car.